Something else is bothering me.
When I went to place the bolt in place that holds the rod coming from the booster to the brake pedal, the steel lock nut went on the shoulder bolt and down to the shoulder, but
the nut thread was only about ½ way in the nut. It did not make it to the end which is the “lock” part.
Is it possible that at some point someone swapped the bolt? Is it possible that the plunger coming from the booster is not the correct one and it is thicker that it is supposed
to be and…
Perhaps the linkage is binding and not swinging free.
If anyone has on the shelf a known correct booster would you measure the thickness of the plunger where the bolt goes through for me? Perhaps it has a too thick pushrod. The bolt
is a shoulder bolt and is supposed to float.
Also, if anyone has a bolt, would you measure the total length from under the head to the end of the shoulder and the length from under the head to the very end of the bolt?
I want to make sure something is not going on with that. The end of the bolt looked like it was cut after it was made. Perhaps someone did it to get that cobbled up return spring
and bracket to clear. I tossed it out so I cannot see if that was it.
I hate it when I find that some idiot worked on a car and messed it up.
Thanks, James
The answer is yes and no. Let me explain. Sometimes if I sit there for 10 seconds it will come back up. Sometimes it does not.
I took it down the block and came to a stop. It stayed down so I shut the engine off and waited. After about 15 seconds or so it popped back up. What was interesting is that I could
hear at the same instant one of the AC vacuum cans make noise like the linkage arm moved.
I highly suspect that someone had the MC and the booster done at some point and the job was junk, hence the return spring BS.
I REALLY want to get this thing out to see if the temp steering box is going to be ok and test the car generally to see what I really got for my money.
In any event, I think I am going to punt and head back to San Francisco today. I will take the spare booster I picked up off that New Yorker and ship it off to get rebuilt. I am
also going to get a dual MC from a 1968 to 1971 drum-drum car and have it sleeved and then send it along with the booster so they can make sure the pushrods are properly adjusted. It is not that big of a deal to take the “Tee” out and put to 90’s on the lines
and cut some short sections up to the new dual MC.
I really do not want to stress my back under the dash to pull that booster to play with it when I suspect I will end the end need to put a quality rebuild in it.
Best to cut my losses for this weekend and be patient.
James, I once experienced a similar failure on my 60 Buick. Pedal went to the floor seemingly held by vacuum. Pedal came up with engine off.
Is your pedal returning with no vacuum, when engine is off,?
Most master cylinders have a spring inside to bring it back. I see this external spring and bracket stuff when boosters or cylinders are wrong or poorly repaired. I see lots of
Treadlevacs that way.
Say whether the pedal is held by vacuum or gravity.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 1/22/23 1:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300K Midland Booster
I just went to pull the 300K off the rack, I have the steering all back in with the temp box. I went to back up and the brakes were locked.
The pedal did not return. Now I had the booster off. It looked like it had been rebuilt at some time in the last 20 years. There was some surface rust on the can and also some on
the plunger. I took the can apart, just the two shells and I cleaned everything on a wire wheel and gave the parts some zinc paint. Nothing on the inside. I put it back together and that was it. I reinstalled it after the steering was in.
Now one thing that has not worked well is the brakes since I picked it up. I do plan on an entire rebuild, but that is after the steering. There was a funky return spring and bracket
on the brake pedal arm that I took off. It did not seem to affect anything. But now I see why.
Anyone have any ideas? The service manual does not have anything on pressing the pedal down and and it staying there. I can pull it back with my foot.
I doubt it is the MC but anything is possible.
--
For archives go to
http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB617125ECCB9B7E689CB54F4093CB9%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.
--
For archives go to
http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB6171F5FB0331846D25B9F78D93CB9%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap