Re: {Chrysler 300} 300K Midland Booster
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 300K Midland Booster



James,

An option if you can find one is Napa P1874 or P1878.  Haven’t been able able to get them lately and have gone with this one from O’Reilly for the K:

IMG_8559
 You need two adapters; one I bought at Napa and I don’t have the number but the other one pictured came from O’Reilly also.  
IMG_9123

All I did was take the rear line out of the existing junction block and plug the block (plug pictured from Napa).  Then run a new 1/4” fittings short line from master (aft port/ closest to firewall) to junction block for front brakes.  Then a short 3/16” fittings line with 3/16” brake line coupler from forward MC port to rear brake line.  
IMG_8561

I flushed everything as well (and replaced hoses and wheel cylinders) due to the change over to Dot5.  If I find the other adapter number I’ll send it over.  

V/r
D&K


Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 22, 2023, at 2:26 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


The answer is yes and no. Let me explain. Sometimes if I sit there for 10 seconds it will come back up. Sometimes it does not.

I took it down the block and came to a stop. It stayed down so I shut the engine off and waited. After about 15 seconds or so it popped back up. What was interesting is that I could hear at the same instant one of the AC vacuum cans make noise like the linkage arm moved.

I highly suspect that someone had the MC and the booster done at some point and the job was junk, hence the return spring BS.

I REALLY want to get this thing out to see if the temp steering box is going to be ok and test the car generally to see what I really got for my money.  

In any event, I think I am going to punt and head back to San Francisco today. I will take the spare booster I picked up off that New Yorker and ship it off to get rebuilt.  I am also going to get a dual MC from a 1968 to 1971 drum-drum car and have it sleeved and then send it along with the booster so they can make sure the pushrods are properly adjusted. It is not that big of a deal to take the “Tee” out and put to 90’s on the lines and cut some short sections up to the new dual MC.  

I really do not want to stress my back under the dash to pull that booster to play with it when I suspect I will end the end need to put a quality rebuild in it. 

Best to cut my losses for this weekend and be patient.
James

James

From: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2023 10:33:12 AM
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300K Midland Booster
 
James, I once experienced a similar failure on my 60 Buick. Pedal went to the floor seemingly held by vacuum. Pedal came up with engine off. 

Is your pedal returning with no vacuum, when engine is off,?

Most master cylinders have a spring inside to bring it back. I see this external spring and bracket stuff when boosters or cylinders are wrong or poorly repaired. I see lots of Treadlevacs that way. 

Say whether the pedal is held by vacuum or gravity.

Dab



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: 1/22/23 1:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: "Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300K Midland Booster

I just went to pull the 300K off the rack, I have the steering all back in with the temp box. I went to back up and the brakes were locked.

The pedal did not return. Now I had the booster off. It looked like it had been rebuilt at some time in the last 20 years. There was some surface rust on the can and also some on the plunger. I took the can apart, just the two shells and I cleaned everything on a wire wheel and gave the parts some zinc paint. Nothing on the inside. I put it back together and that was it. I reinstalled it after the steering was in.

Now one thing that has not worked well is the brakes since I picked it up. I do plan on an entire rebuild, but that is after the steering.  There was a funky return spring and bracket on the brake pedal arm that I took off. It did not seem to affect anything. But now I see why. 

Anyone have any ideas? The service manual does not have anything on pressing the pedal down and and it staying there. I can pull it back with my foot. 

I doubt it is the MC but anything is possible.

Help!  

James

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