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My 1964 300K that I just picked up is an 90K mile car with the factory paint still on it. I plan on having my body shop do a computer match at several places on the car so we can see any differences. The plan is to
conserve the paint on the car if we can. There are some places like the top that we may have to paint and a couple of spots on the rear roll of the trunk, where peoples hand would have grabbed it. We may have to spray the entire trunk lid. The only other thought is do we do a single stage match or wet sand the entire body after shooting the roof and the trunk and then shoot a clear coat over it all including
the factory (still in good shape) pin stripping. Once I get a computerized Ruby Red, I will of course post the formula for anyone who wants it. James From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of Ron Waters Another factor that I learned when we were matching the colors for my 1959 Dodge is that the color of the primer affects what the top coat will look like. We did sprayouts
on white, light gray and dark gray cards that simulated the primer color. The difference is noticeable. Ron From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin I will offer my opinion based on experience. It may differ from others here.
Formulas work if someone somewhere came up with an acceptable color match using modern urethanes rather than antique lacquers and enamels. That is what your shop is asking,
is there a formula out there that works today is what they want to know. So if you saw a car recently painted in a correct 300 color and you had his or her formula, that is a good way to start. Old formulations will not help. Old paint chips have faded.
Benchmarks today are surviving original cars with some original paint left and photos. At the end of the day it will be a close match but ultimately your discretion.
Best thing is to order the paint in the stock color you seek and then have your painter do several spray-outs using tints to dial the color in. You need a benchmark to dial
towards, any original paint left, or another car with a correct color you want to duplicate. You can order paint in the stock colors, even 60 year old colors, but you will need to have a benchmark to use as a match. I painted a 56 Cadillac Dawn Grey which
is a pale violet that can look pink if improperly tinted. I ordered Dawn Grey from Glasurit using a Ditzler or RM color chart from the internet. Then we did two or three cardboard spray-outs and tinted to match them to original paint under the trunk lid. Is
it dead on? No way to know but I like it. Danny Plotkin From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of D.C. Mason Hello all, Does anyone know of a good source for paint formulas for our cars (letter or non letter)? We have information on paint chips and codes, but the actual formula is something our local paint shop asked for, since the code didn’t cross to
a formula for mixing. Recently Jay Hackleman was looking for a formula for parade green; not sure that was ever resolved. It may be wishful thinking that there is a site that has formulas for all the colors. Looking at email archives led to a page on the
club site with additional codes but not actual formulas.
Thanks! D&K Sent from my iPhone -- --
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