Real issue imho in all this is lots of things can work well on a long tow , no question , but if an accident , fabric straps Will break car hurtles forward .A Winch in front does not help, and crossed straps , in rear , just from the vector of forces in that setup , will experience almost double the tension of straight straps . That is huge . Also brings up how strong are D rings bolted to floor — especially yanked sideways ? Many I see are just folded rod under a sheet metal cover . This is not an area I really know , but just from the engineering scale of things here , you need something like 3/4 or 7/8” shank forged eye bolts passing into frame and then straight or almost straight chains , at rear —-said bolts going down though trailer frame rails or to iron structure added for them , large washers on far side . Your mileage may vary with your appetite for risk .(!) But idiots will cut you off … aka the silver Toyota problem . Matters more to really hold car in an extreme situation than scratched paint on axle tube ? although a good wrap should stop that too . Good subject to get into here .. raise awareness .. Jg Sent from my iPhone On Aug 13, 2022, at 8:57 PM, 'Mwl1967' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I dunno... my 6 and 8 year old have no problem attaching under the car. Of course I check afterwards
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Nick Taylor' <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>; 'chrysler 300 club' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sat, Aug 13, 2022 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs
I agree John, I don’t like running the straps under the car if I don’t have to. I looked close at the rear axle on my G and I just don’t see a location I could strap around the housing without touching the brake line except if I ran it between the wheel and the spring pack and there’s too many hard edges in there. E Track looks very good, but I just don’t tow that often, and I’m adding an additional 8 tie points welded to the perimeter. I keep coming back to these lasso type:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DL42BJ/?coliid=I2KF1TZ6TH5XOR&colid=3RM5MKQG91I8B&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
easy to put on, I’ll weld the tie down right where it works best, and I Iike how short they are. Anybody try these?
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2022 1:57 PM To: Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs
Watch out that straps on rear axle do not touch gas tank , or exhaust , — after tightening car down . Learned hard way , you look ok , but after tightening it can touch and rub constantly = hole/ damage . Depends of course on angle to trailer rings etc
The point made by Mac’s about keeping them straight at rear , not crossed , car nose in , seems absolutely correct to me .
The cheap orange flat straps you commonly see will suddenly tear , end goes flying 1000 mph . Beware . Not strong enough to tow With . I had two in a row , the 1000 mph included the middle metal buckle. ( stuck car ) . I would not trust as tie downs in an accident . Chains are # 1
Mike,
Mac's is where I got my tire block straps for my trailer to use with e-track. Their basket straps are custom made for the size of the tire and so you have limited use with them. I need to haul various cars. My trailer still has the d-rings and stake pockets so I can use all kinds of straps. I'm not limited to the track as the car just sits on it. It gives me the flexibility if I need to haul pallets of something on my car trailer or other materials like long lumber.
I agree that Mac's has the best stuff around. I shopped all kinds of different brands and types and theirs were far and away the best quality. They answered my questions quickly and assured me what I was trying to do was going to work with their straps. And they will try to make anything custom you need for your application. There are certainly cheaper straps and I've used some of those when borrowing trailers.
Good idea on keeping those straps in your car trunk. I've had my F towed a few times and wince at what they do sometimes. I have to say they may not agree to use your equipment though.
Bob,
check out Mac's Tie Downs. When I first needed to trailer my car I didn't want to look for bargains but rather a company I could ask questions of and made in the USA. They suggested, and I purchased, a kit of four tie-downs they referred to as their Direct Hook Ratchet. Being one who always struggles with typical tie downs, this one makes it easy in that the ratchet and hook attach right to the ring on your trailer's deck, with the other end being the only loose end with another hook. That hook goes to an axle strap they sell with a fleece lining. The fleece lined strap goes around the rear axle tube, doesn't damage anything and then STRAIGHT back, not crossed. They said the reason for going straight back is that if the tow vehicle-trailer combo is in a collision everything wants to continue in a forward motion and the straps keeping the car from going forward are strongest in a straight line. The same setup on the front... I wrap the fleece lined axle straps around the subframe or strut rods depending on which car I'm towing.
If you go with the tire attaching setup I believe your use of them would be limited to only the wheel-tire size combo you purchase it for and if you get the setup that requires a track on the deck of your trailer you're stuck with that. Comparatively, I always keep the fleece lined straps in the car, tucked under the spare tire, in case it ever needs to be towed. The tow guy can attach his ugly metal hook to my straps and I don't have to worry about the undercarriage being damaged. I've ordered a separate, longer set of fleece covered axle straps. If I need to trailer one of my SRT's I pass those straps thru the wheels because the car sits too low to get underneath to find something to wrap around. Check out their website for ideas and give them a call with questions. They've been helpful the times I've needed answers. Hope this helps.
My plan is to trailer my 300G convert to the Pasadena meet, and I’d like some feedback as to tie down methods others have used. I have an 18’ non enclosed flatbed trailer, and have been looking at the tie downs that go over the tire, called lasso or basket tiedowns. Anyone used them on their letter car? If axle straps are better, explain how you protect the brake lines, and where do you attach straps to the front? All feedback welcome, thanks.
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