Hi
while the safety factor if off is unquestionable , a fusible link at the battery power terminal may be much more effective — as the short is most likely to happen while you are running , not parked , and link is always ready to act instantly for you . Unlike the switch .
Also if by accident it is not fully closed tight , loosens, or accidentally opened while engine is running the overall car volts with no battery in the circuit will rise to 20 V and blow up your radio and any electronics , as alternator has no load then ..
Overall — Personally I think the wrong solution to a rare problem , that switch can cause a lot of problems on its own .
That said, we all find our own path , and that is ok .
J
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 9, 2022, at 12:07 AM, Roberta Cottrell <
randm291@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Elaina,
> If you haven’t already installed a battery terminal disconnect device on your car I recommend it. They’re available at price points from $10 to over $40 depending on complexity. I’ve put one on each of our vintage cars as an electrical safety measure; easy to disconnect/reconnect battery power any time. NAPA stores usually have the best selection and should be able to help you pick the best one for your car.
>
> Roberta Cottrell
> 300E
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 8:06 PM, Elaina Wolfe <
misse002@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Ron, the first thing I invested in was a CD manual on the car and printed every page of it! Then I found an original manual at a car show. The guy who temporarily wired the car read the schematics from the manual that I took. He is a wire guy. He showed me exactly what he did. My husband is not mechanical inclined, but I am. The wires intimidate me, there are to many. I found two guys who do wiring. One is the older gentlman I saw and the other does not come back from his vacation til about another week. In the mean time I won’t move my car because I don’t want it to catch on fire. All the lights come on when I step on the brake, that did not happen until my husband got my car detailed.
>> Thank you for your feedback.
>> Elaina
>>
>>>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Ron Waters <
ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Elaina -
>>>
>>> Here's the deal: Your mechanic doesn't know and doesn't want to learn how to
>>> work on your old car. So he just jury-rigged something and as you can see,
>>> didn't even bother to test it out. You need to go back to him, have him
>>> remove his 'fix', get your money back, and finally, terminate him as your
>>> mechanic.
>>>
>>> As an old car owner, you and your husband need to become experts on the car.
>>> Buy a factory shop manual and a parts book. Learn how to replace the
>>> headlight switch or affect the necessary repair. This is what is required in
>>> today's world.
>>>
>>> Sorry to be so blunt, but that's the bottom line.
>>>
>>> Ron
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>>> [mailto:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
>>>
misse002@xxxxxxxxx>>> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2022 1:47 PM
>>> To: 300 Club
>>> Subject: {Chrysler 300} 67 300 convertible
>>>
>>> Hi all, I have a problem.I'm in the Bay Area CA. My lights did not work in
>>> the dash board when I got my car. I had a shop look at it and he said it is
>>> my panel lamp dimmer switch. Not to confuse for the dimmer for headlights.
>>> He temporarily fixed to we're my dash has light but I won't be able to dim
>>> them. Temp fix until my electric guy is back from vacation. Been about two
>>> weeks.
>>>
>>> Now, the problem, my husband takes the car to get detailed and now every
>>> light on the dash comes on when I step on the brake!! I step on the brake
>>> and the front parking lights, the two signal lights on top of the car, green
>>> light on my dash and now a red light, I think it said breaks? Scary!! Anyone
>>> have an idea of what this may be?
>>> Thank you in advance,
>>> Elaina
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
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