Re: {Chrysler 300} Taper brake drums and F plate frame -- FYI
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Taper brake drums and F plate frame -- FYI



Murray Park should have them.

Bob Haag

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 9:54 AM, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> Straight talk:
> 
> Don't separate 57 thru 62 hubs from drums. Ever. Don't do it. Just say NO.
> Chrysler manufactured these as one-piece assemblies for a reason. 
> 
> Yes, you have to find used. They are out there. You just have to make phone
> calls, find people with parts cars, look under enough rocks and you'll find
> 'em.
> 
> Don't buy from Kanter. They sell overpriced junk.
> 
> Ron  
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John
> Grady
> Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 8:35 AM
> To: chrysler 300 club
> Subject: {Chrysler 300} Taper brake drums and F plate frame -- FYI
> 
> Trying now for 3 months now on and off car to get new manufacture uncut
> drums correctly centered to our stock taper rear hubs . There are no pilots
> , the thing was apparently machined in one piece at factory to center shoe
> surface to taper . -and new drum stud holes are oversize compared to our old
> ones cannot do the common ( today ) press fit stud way of centering drum
> without major machining of  hub for new very large studs . Which may lose
> center precision  . Not that good to start , per measuring all  5 , was
> only intended to hold wheel ? Conical bolts average it out? 
> Drum center "new style pilot hole  " are about 2" used on new drums to
> center but 2" drum machining hole is  tapered inside , you need to take like
> 3/16" off our hub face to make a deep enough pilot -that is too much . Hub
> flange is not very thick ( ? safety issue )  .
> Frustrating thing , 3rd time all four off the car . This time We bought real
> brake drum arbors and shaft/ cones ; but with taper hubs there are real
> issues with trueness of taper inlet and outlet diameters where drum turning
> cones sit . Normal cones were  too large for small outer end of taper , we
> had to buy a whole second set and smaller arbor made for euro small cars .
> Days of messing with this trying to get consistent numbers in lath setup
> leads to conclusion our drums were allowed to be slightly wobbling ( -.010
> -.015) as rough attached to hub , and this was fixed if it happened by final
> machining of "shoe face inner  12" cylinder " referencing to only the taper
> . So 11or 12" " bore"" is often moving around some , inside  the stock
> casting , --= why most original drums on our cars have factory welded
> balance weights . You take this apart you are screwed , cannot get good
> radial numbers due to slight  wobble  . New drums do same thing . Our
> concept was simple - hand center drum radially on hub then pin , wheel clamp
> force is holding then too  it looks like later no taper mopar . Simple thing
> has turned into atomic project , radial numbers all over the place partially
> due to wobble . 
> 
> Add in doubts about real cause of measured weird runouts -? = It is a 3D
> issue ?? due to cones sitting on taper ends not in the plane of drum face ,
> leads to inescapable conclusion we need to make a tool  out of a used axle
> to hold the hub for sure on intended center, and be truly orthogonal to axle
> .  . As they must have done . So this long story is asking if anyone has a
> junked rear or loose axle . We will pick up shipping . I trashed many rears
> , someone must have a junk one out back , or axle . Clean up the yard!!
> Wrecking yards won't ruin a full assembly . All axle ends seem the same
> plymouth to 300 , 11 and 12 " .
> 
> We need to solve this as drums "already on taper hubs"  (as mopar serviced
> this ) are not available new  and used are topping 350 and often already cut
> to max. New drums sold by Kanter for instance have oversize bolt  holes do
> not center without a pilot . How this started , inherited from prior owner
> who gave up 
> 
> 
> Second -- back at F plate frame , - we could use the center part cut out of
> junk 60 body below trunk  where plate frame mounts so fabrication house can
> trial fit , use for QC . 3 rd try at this one , back to brass casting .
> Twenty years and 5k later ( plastic injection molds - parts were failure
> cannot chrome well)  still no good  F frame . Help on this appreciated !
> Best regards ,and thanks  John Grady 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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> 47E-43DA-AE64-F0524B61D5FA%40gradyresearch.com.
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