Yes, I too noticed that this document begins with 409 Chevy references. I read through this and found reference to all makes of cars. Good theory-op. The trouble shooting section and spec sheets also refers to all cars with AFB’s. I experienced something I didn’t expect when I pulled the fuel line off to change the filter. No gasoline present at all, car ran last on Sunday. Are the 64 gas tanks vented or not? I’ll run it again and then pull the gas cap and see if this allows fuel to stay in situ. If not, I have learned there may be a valve in the carb to hold the gas in line. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin The AFB manual is very useful for those with original carbed Chevrolet 409. I caution you not to use this to diagnose the (original/correct) carbs on a 300. To my knowledge original AFB’s were specifically engineered and set up for specific applications, engine size, car, automatic/manual and air conditioning and other variables. The manual cautions that general design is the same but that specific parts among carb list numbers will not transfer to other carbs even if they look as though they will. In the 60’s we had a great variety of engine applications yet only 3 basic 4 barrel carb designs (Holly, AFB, WCFB, and 4G). So these carbs were modified for use on engines ranging from 327 cubic inches to 413 and beyond. Carbs used with these engines had specific CFM, specific pump shot volume, specific compensation to deal with AC use and so on. I am a big believer in shop manuals published for our cars and I’ve never understood the propensity of many to ask for shortcuts or ways to accomplish tasks or troubleshoot that are all spelled out in plain language by the fellas that designed them. I would use the shop manual to diagnose and overhaul your AFB, which is likely needed. I remember pulling the sediment bowl off my 56 Cadillac one year trying to diagnose what seemed like vapor lock (it wasn’t) but doing so got dirt in the carb and it would no longer idle until I pulled it apart – with the shop manual. Danny Plotkin From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx I recall that there were some questions regarding our AFB carbs. Here is a link that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know, and a lot you never wanted to know! Details galore. Big file, so download here: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/manuals/carter-afb-emanual.pdf I found this looking for an idle discharge circuit diagram since the manual suggested this as a cause for rough idle condition. I had R&R’d my ”new” gas tank the PO installed to fix a leak. Since then, she idles poorly. New filter and will just remove idle screws and blow them out. Allan -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/010901d86ad3%2427b867f0%24772937d0%24%40comcast.net. |
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