Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 Torqueflight Push Buttons

hi Matt , no — the problem can be that the button interlock at dash has sort of flat notched holding springs with notches that keep selected buttons in place . Sometimes one half of it on top or bottom snaps off . I have seen this many times From looking at it I think it is a steel fatigue failure after 100,000 operations or something , so hi mile car . That button interlock box is an assembly , not hard to get from junkyard , replace all . You might take off and lube / free up inside the backup light switch and save the old one , they stick , lot of work to get to later , I use a few drops of mobil 1 75 w on shifter slides it works a lot easier . And sparingly inside backup light mechanism . I hang up and lube the cable too .

While on this , and picking up on your comment on adjuster— and I defer to Don V , — After a lot of measuring in converting a 60 PB shift box to work with RH od trans from 90’s dodge truck , i came to conclusion mopar designed the cable operation carefully to allow some “planned for lash error “ yet work . I think some small lash is a design feature , it will not work if way perfect tight . The lash is such that push button gets trans end of cable centered in the lash , in the selection position , but spring in the trans shift valve actually drives it home , perfectly indexing the trans valve . If you understand this , it makes adjusting it much easier . There are —as you know — two or three procedures in the various year FSM and in my experience they are awful ( there Don— I said it !!) especially the hold reverse one . Unless you like doing it 25 times . That there are several ways tells me there were issues . Stuff like “won’t go into reverse unless you press drive first “ arises from this . Lash not centered .

I have been using test light on starter neutral switch , set this in N . you come at it from left note when light comes on then count turns or note position all through this , then come at it from right , center the light in the middle of range that light is on . that “from each side” puts this lash in the middle . And in middle of cable travel too with N

Adjusting from one end ( reverse ) i think is conceptually wrong , you want to split the error around the middle . (N) — plus light is nice.
just sayin ..

john g

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 29 Jan 2022, at 1:34 pm, 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Upon loading the new drivetrain into the ‘62 300 Sport a couple thousand miles ago….we installed a new Shifter Cable and adjusted it per the manual. Lately, the Drive button will pop out, though the transmission remains in drive.

Do I need to jack up the car and go through the cable adjustment procedure again? There is no adjustment at the shifter buttons themselves, so this is all I can think of.

Thanks!

Matt Allyn

(562) 533-2551

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