hi probably the oil pressure wire is shorted to ground . or a defective oil sender . take wire off sender it should drop to C . Or course defective gauge can cause it but rarely if ever is a defective gauge going to full up . ***where the temp reads now and flashing voltage says the regulator is working . What about gas ? not pegged or zero right ? These are never very accurate , the oil pressure thing has you looking critically at the others ( guess !!? ) . Another regulator might read slightly higher or lower but seldom the real issue . Senders , all of them should read between 10 and 90 ohms (or so ) low ohms = high end of scale . None of these numbers are precision . Although crude the “ regulators “ seem to work ok unless a short on gauge power common wire in head ( which blows up regulator) or lack of ground in speedo head . That ground jumper there is critical— if loose or left out it can peg all the gauges with 12 V injuring all of them .Been there too . As screws on that jumper go only into plastic on gauge end , if rebuilding it out of car I have taken to soldering one end of it to the metal frame the gauges sit on . The average main gauge voltage is about 5.5 -6 v , ( by pulsing 12 on and off) so a good test is a 6 v “lantern battery “ on the gauge should put it up at the right end . This leads to putting 5 v -6v solid state non pulsing regulators there ( has to be on heat sink) —I used to do that but stock is fine . . Don’t try to adjust the calibration slots on gauge they do interact and you get in trouble ( lesson learned hard way) . related : aftermarket replacement gas senders now common everywhere are not made right imho , and E is often incorrect ohms readings not linear . Be sure float goes to bottom of tank ( bend arm and check readings before putting into tank) ground it too when doing that , and solder wire to outlet pipe and ground to car body . Poor gas tank ground not uncommon — gives erratic or no reading . Wrong E drives you crazy — you don’t really care about F . Temp and oil don’t matter in precision just as long as “ normal” in a given car . Hope this helps .. Jkg PS if you put analog voltmeter across senders , oil , gas and / or temp you can see the pulsing volts , = a great fast test , tells you regulator is working and wiring ok without touching the dash stuff! number dies not matter for test. ( I can’t stand digital meters , but good for charging system volts .. you can’t see trends on them , like charging or gauge pulse ) Get a good used triplett 630 on ebay!) Sent from my iPhone not by choice On the 1962, the regulator is built into the Oil Pressure gauge as it was for most 1960-62 Astradomes. I say most as both of my '60 Chrysler have factory external regulators. On my 300F, JC Auto restored the dome for a previous owner and they paid to have an external regulator conversion done but it turns out it would have had an external one from the factory. My '60 New Yorker wagon was built a few days before my 300F and it also has the external regulator. I also bought a spare '60 dome with an external regulator setup and it is the later one with it gone from the oil pressure gauge. Here are some pictures including the bulletin showing the change. It appears that they went back to the Internal regulator in 1961. On Monday, July 19, 2021 at 9:48:54 PM UTC-7 scooter465 wrote:
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