RE: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues
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RE: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues





Error correction: The brake section of the 1963 Service Manual may be viewed at:  http://www.jholst.net/63-service-manual/brakes.pdf  

 

All good at:  www.jholst.com  service & parts manuals and lots of good Chrysler 300 stuff.

 

Rich Barber

 

From: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 12:56 PM
To: 'Mark Lindahl' <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Ron Waters' <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues

 

Good points.  From my experience:  Proper arc grinding is done after checking the drum for runout, squareness, hotspots & etc. and carefully measuring its ID.  The arc-grinding machine apparently then mounts the new shoes in a fixed position and then grinds or removes parts of the lining to crate the new “OD” of the shoes, net of specified clearance.

 

My technique with new shoes was to install the drum over the new shoes (seldom arc-ground), use the star or other adjuster to lock up the drum, then back the adjuster off until the drum would rotate freely (with some minimal contact).  Then drive the car and really stomp on the brakes.  Back on the rack to tighten up the shoes again and back them off.  Repeat as necessary until the drum “arced” the new shoes.  Labor intensive but what the hey—I was only making a buck an hour.

 

Pages 60 and 61 in the 1955 Service Manual show some shoe alignment issues.  http://www.jholst.net/55-service-manual/brakes.pdf         My 1964 manual does not address these issues.  The brake section of the 1963 Service Manual may be viewed at:  http://www.jholst.net/55-service-manual/brakes.pdf         The problem diagnosis does mention the effect of grooving of the drums to be a potential problem.  This might be a contributor to your problems.  My brake guy recommends and does a light cleanup pass to remove the high spots of the grooves and assure a round and square inner surface of the drum.

 

This is an interesting and informative thread.  Thanks for posting and do let us know if you find a smoking gun.

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'Mark Lindahl' mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 7:29 AM
To: 'Ron Waters' <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues

 

 

Hi Ron,

 

I supplied the brake parts, 3 inch wide shoes, grease seals, and new wheel cylinders.  The shop ‘ran out of time’, so they only did the front brakes and I did the rear brakes.  The rear brakes are fine.  :<)

Many shops these days do not have the collective experience that exists within the Chrysler 300 Club.  If I bring it back, they may not know how to fix the problem, so I am asking these questions to Chrysler 300 experts.

 

Since this problem occurs only when the brakes heat up, the diagnostic section in the shop manual will really not pinpoint the problem.  I will check the hoses again.  The chatter/noise is the same as 10 years ago so my question to the club is 1) has anyone experienced chatter when installing new 3 “ front brake shoes when the front drum is not resurfaced and/or new brake shoes are not arced? 

            2) will there be excess heat build-up if there is a problem with either of the two wheel bearings?  I don’t really feel much vibration.

 

Since the noise is the same as I heard 10 years ago (that eventually went away), it seems like the chatter/sound is due to the combination of new brake shoes and existing drum.  Think of the sound a dump truck makes when it stops.

 

I have owned this vehicle for 30 years and it has not made noises and pulled to the left for 29+ years.  I only drive the car after a change is made to see if the problem is corrected.  Otherwise, how will I know if the problem is solved?  Thank you.

 

Mark

 

PS- the shop manual reads: “Brake Shoe Lining – New lining should be measured and ground 0.060 to 0.080 (maximum) under the drum diameter.”  I do not understand how this can be measured without knowing the opening of the star adjuster.  Should I assume that the star adjuster should be in the completely closed position before taking the above measurement?

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 10:58 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues

 

 

Mark -

 

Just a couple of random thoughts...

Have you considered bringing the car back to the mechanic that did this less-than-wonderful repair job, and probably charged you many hundreds of dollars as well, and ask him to redo his lousy workmanship ?

 

If you have the shop manual, why don't you read the section on brake repair ? There is usually a diagnostic for solving problems.

 

Did you supply the parts, or leave it to your repair guy to come up with them ? It sounds like some incorrect parts have been installed, both now and five years ago. Brake shoes should not crack and linings should not break off.

 

When was the last time the brake hoses were replaced ? A collapsed hose could cause the problem you describe.

 

If your brakes are heating up and pulling like you describe, do NOT drive the car until you have successfully diagnosed and solved the problem.

 

Ron

 


From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mark Lindahl mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 9:11 PM
To: John Grady
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] '63 Chrysler 300 conv. Brake issues

Hi John,

 

The star adjuster is fairly new and working correctly and the power booster is on the fire wall. The brake pulling just started with the new shoes. 

Regards,

Mark


On Aug 12, 2018, at 5:16 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Might replace all the self adjuster parts ; full kits are on rock auto . Cheap maybe ten bucks.  Had problems for years on 67 dart , realise not the same car, but replaced many and  various big things like shoes drums individually 3x. Finally changed everything to new parts at once including a used spindle from a cuda. Problem gone . Self adjuster may be installed wrong , from wrong car or side of car — who knows history . Repetition of same problem 2-3x says to me wrong parts or installed wrong , lubed wrong etc  . Your thinking track is correct .. frustrating . 

You do not have ram J hydrovac right ? That is a dog imho. 

Hope this helps .. 

Sent from my iPhone


On 12 Aug 2018, at 4:55 pm, 'Mark Lindahl' mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi All,

About 10 years ago, I had my single reservoir master cylinder changed to a dual cylinder MC, as well as all shoes and wheel cylinders changed by my local mechanic. 

When everything was new, a noise was coming from the left front wheel, similar to a chatter.  It stayed the same for about 6 months and then went away.  The brake shoes were never arced, so I thought it would just take a while for the shoes to conform to the brake drum.  It seemed to stop well and I never had any problems.  There is an anti-chatter spring on all the brake drums.

10 years later and maybe only 5000 miles later, I had new shoes and wheel cylinders installed again.  Same shop, but a different mechanic. 

The old shoes had some cracking in them (left to right, not along the length of the shoe) and a piece on the back shoe was broken off on the bottom.  I had never seen a brake shoe pad crack or pieces brake off like this in the past.  Maybe this was due to too much heat?  This is the reason why I changed to all new shoes.  The wheel cylinders were weeping a bit, so everything got changed.

I heard the same chatter in the left front wheel with the new shoes after a week or two.  After driving it about a month or so, I also felt a strong pull to the driver’s side after 15 minutes of driving/breaking.  When I felt the wheels, the front left wheel was very hot (I could not keep my hand on the wheel cover) , while the rest of them were just hot.  I jacked up the left front and the brakes were so tight that it did not spin as freely as I think it should have.  I loosened up the star adjuster and the wheel only had a very slight noise/drag when spinning the wheel.  There was a lot of dust in the brake drum after only a month so I just thought he adjusted the brakes too tight.

Now the chatter sound is still there from start up and after driving about 15 minutes, the pull to the left gets worse (very fast), and the wheel on the left side is still very hot. I have the shop manual, but any comments on star adjuster adjustment would be helpful as well as whether the wheel bearings could also be an issue.  The rest of the brakes don’t get so hot and seem to be OK.

I have an extra left front drum that I am planning to put on, including a used set of wheel bearings.  I am thinking that another brake drum/wheel bearings may tell whether the problem is in the brake adjustment or the drum?  I will check to see if there is still a chatter and also the pull.  Thanks for reading.  Before I get too much into this, your comments are appreciated.  Thank you.

Regards,

Mark Lindahl

’63 300 Conv.



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Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>


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