[Chrysler300] New learning /oil pan / heads up

["John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Despite having done it 25 times in past ,I spent a truly frustrating day yesterday over oil pan gaskets .
If you use modern silicone / RTV gasket materials very sparingly at the very ends of the Chrysler pan gaskets , it acts as a very slippery  lubricant right at the critical front timing case cover joint with pan . So as you evenly tighten down the pan and it’s 180 degree rubber seal pieces, and the ends start to press on the cork , the cork pan gasket will promptly extrude back out, at the timing chain cover — by sliding on the silicone . = big gap, = major leak . Note that by now it is starting to harden .. so three tries , pan on and off ,  I cut rubber a  little ( bad mistake— overthinking the problem );  got nowhere . Then , under increasing time pressure, tried to glue end of cork gasket to block with 3M weatherstrip adhesive , — which will not deal with silicone (!)  . Big mess. Can you say 4 -5 hours on something this  dumb? And utterly frustrating . So I had to get new pan  front and rear  rubber 180, full lengths , start over,  scraped off half hard silicone from the cork with razor  , ( or get new cork) and glued cork pan gasket with weatherstrip adhesive to block for about 3/4” near front cover . Pan off . Waited 24 hours . Then, Tiny bead of wet silicone only at joint , went together perfectly . Do not be tempted to rtv the pan U slot with the rubber; had to undo that good idea too.  Big mess . 
All this was caused by RTV/ silicone . In past it was permatex , acts as a retention glue   . I checked and the excellent 3M product is rated to 300 degrees F as a gasket holder . ( weaker at high temp though) . So , glue the very ends of gaskets front and back to block the night before , no rtv till gasket is held firmly in exact right place . keep your sanity . . And your store of nice words. 
John G 

Sent from my iPhone

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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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