RE: [Chrysler300] power window help

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Something not aligned there..maybe mechanical jam..there is an adjusting
screw on gearbox may be too tight..in line with motor shaft at other end
,takes axial play out should be a little bit of axial play maybe about .010
to avoid jamming. Gear box might be pushing in on motor shaft! maybe a
mechanical jam problem..never thought of that , would be tighter one way
than other due to worm pitch inside it . Bet that is it..so no electrical
problem ---it could not turn. 

-----Original Message-----
From: rinandal [mailto:rinandvan@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 2:30 PM
To: John Grady
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] power window help

Hi John,
Great last suggestion. Tested the motor at battery with gear box on.
Grounded it then applied 12 V to male connector then female connector and
the motor turned the gear box as it was suppose to. I have had these motors
for quite some time, may have come when I purchased the car 20 years ago?  I
found no short in the in car lines from switch to motor.  Also go 12v from
switch to connectors in the car( no load of course).  A side note; I
observed that I can torque the gear box on to the motor and greatly increase
the resistance to turning.

Thanks for the great suggestions and help.
Van

 
On Jul 28, 2016, at 10:01 AM, John Grady wrote:

> Hi Van,
> 
> First, Separate the motor as installed in car from switches and wiring 
> by grounding the motor frame, if not already in door.. in door,  ground is
ok.
> That grounds it. Put live # 12   wire 12V lead from car battery into one
> connector, then the other , it should go up then down. If it does = 
> you have wiring, poor connector ,  or switch problem, (if not a single 
> side defective field winding inside motor ). But I REALLY doubt 
> that..more likely connectors not tight? Brushes and armature are used 
> by exact same connections inside in both directions so that is ok and 
> usually = the bad parts. ( brush sticks in holder ..do not oil that, 
> just free it  ) Where did you get the motor? "Appear identical" may 
> not be right, re: case/appearance of motor. ? But they probably ARE 
> right,  if PW motors from that era Chysler products . From junk car or 
> something? There is also a thermal switch that is supposed to open if 
> say a kid holds down the switch , against a stall, to keep motor from 
> burning up .It snaps open, resets after a minute . I mention that 
> (mounted near brush) , it looks like ignition points, as they get 
> rusty if water gets in which happens in front doors, then is 
> intermittent in contact. BE SURE water thrower or ring is in place on 
> shaft at top of motor ..I glue those on w weatherstrip cement , to 
> seal them to shaft , they are critical to keep rain out of motor. Water
runs along shaft into front bearing and motor. That totals the motor ---and
quickly.
> 
> Can check field winding with low ohm meter(hate digital meters, 
> reading jumps around) analog ohmmeter, low ohms scale , read each lead 
> to motor case. Should be about the same within 10% _If one reads very 
> high that side field coil is open, motor is defective or needs repairs 
> . Or broken wire internally to plastic insulation covering,  where it 
> leaves motor (from
> wiggling) .
> 
> This should find it! 
> 
> You have old seized motor? If you do not need it , or going to toss, 
> can mail to me. I strip for parts. Or you can.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rinandal [mailto:rinandvan@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 6:25 PM
> To: John Grady
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] power window help
> 
> Hi John,
> The motors appear identical to the frozen one.  Same non mixable  
> leads and color.  Strange to me is the testing I did with the motor 
> was with door switches and car leads as if were in the car.  Only 
> addition was a ground wire from car to the motor.  Without the gear 
> box the motor ran when switch( still in the door) was pushed up and 
> when pushed down.  Add gearbox no down motor action at all ??
> Van
> On Jul 27, 2016, at 2:09 PM, John Grady wrote:
> 
>> If like 60 , two field windings. You put 12 volts from one wire to 
>> motor case , NOT  between the two wires. One field is wound opposite 
>> to other so only one field works at a time (weird) ; but if you do 
>> not do this, then you have to reverse the polarity of armature or 
>> field (only one!) to reverse a DC motor, takes a relay,  lots of 
>> wires come out for wound field, 4 plus relay, power lead and command 
>> leads. ( some can be common)  . But original 300C to F G design ( at 
>> least) works ok, just means bigger motor , ground motor;  12 V to one 
>> is up,
>> 12 to other is down. Easy to test. I get into this as you may be 
>> testing it wrong ? Or have wrong motor. I do not know which type 300K 
>> has,
> but probably first type. Where did you get "a motor" .
>> A heater motor looks like it but will not work at all. 
>> 
>> Later power window motors have magnets in them, no field windings  so 
>> you cannot do this . On those you swap + and - volts to reverse ( 
>> relay or special switch with 6 pins (vs three to our first type) .
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> John
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>> On Behalf Of rinandal rinandvan@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 3:09 PM
>> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: [Chrysler300] power window help
>> 
>> Hi Out there,
>> A little background before I reveal my problem. I have a 1964 300k 
>> convertible power windows.  Front passenger side stop working all 
>> others work as they should.  Found motor frozen  Replaced it greased 
>> gear box, motor and gear box both turned fine.  Tested switches they 
>> seem
> fine.
>> Hooked up motor only and all worked fine. With the switch it seemed 
>> to run in one direction when switch pushed up and another when switch 
>> pushed
> down.
>> Now my problem!  Hooked up gear box all turns easy by hand.  Tested 
>> motor with gear box and it only works in the going up.  Nothing when 
>> I hit
> down?
>> Any enlightenment from someone out there about this conundrum would 
>> be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Al Van Lennep
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> Posted by: rinandal <rinandvan@xxxxxxx>
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>> 
> 



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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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