Re: [Chrysler300] Neat tool

["Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks John,
I have been thinking some more about what was wrong . There were two things I did with the distributor-one was to replace the capacitor.The other was that because  I was concerned about oil/grease on the contact points, (even though I didn’t see any on them), it looked like the grease on the points cam follower had travelled. 
I cleaned both sets of contacts with brake cleaner then dragged some strips of dry white cardboard through the closed points a few times to remove any grease/oil etc.
My problem is that although I knew I had installed some eBay ignition parts (NOS) to avoid poor quality, the shop may have replaced what I put in because they definitely did some rework in the distributor (filed down a peened fastener in the breaker plate which was close to dragging when it advanced, and soldering on a new terminal on a wire. I don’t want to question what they did because it was all fine work. I don’t want to offend the shop by questioning  something they did. If they did put a cap in which went bad (unsure who installed it), so be it-they lent me the tools to find it!

My lack of power boost returned and I am left with having to put a new control valve kit in as that is the last of a bunch of things I did which I didn’t!
Thanks


Mike Moore
Morgan Hill, Ca


> On May 31, 2016, at 6:18 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> I bet that bad cap has impressed lines in can opposite the wire end . That is how contact is made . By pressing can in . Truly Chinese  junk . They are intermittant due to aluminum oxide inside , I cut one open . White dust all over the contact area . You are extremely lucky to find that . It took me years of intermittant hard start problems . Old mopar caps look bad but much higher quality . If you see those lines it is junk 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 31, 2016, at 5:13 PM, Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> My 300H was running great. Better than it ever has-maybe. A mix of 118 Octane gasoline with some 92 octane, set to all correedct tuneup specs, new J12Y plugs etc etc.
>> 
>> Then it quit.
>> 
>>  It wouldn’t start, but would fire occasionally, sometimes down the exhaust. I focussed on ignition . Timing was spot on, dwell was at 37 degrees, timing light flashed with regularity while cranking and I had a spark at the plugs (tested with a new plug). (I thoughtthe spark looked weak and replaced the coil). 
>> I also tested the fuel pump and both it and the electric pump could pump plenty of fuel.
>> 
>> My mechanic lent me his K-D No. 2632 Portable Ignition System along with a can of NAPA brake cleaner. If a good shot of brake cleaner down the rear carb didn’t work it was an ignition problem, not carbs he said. The brake cleaner didn’t work, so I moved on to the tool.
>> 
>> The tool has a ht cable to replace the one from the coil to the distributor, then two wires to the battery and an off-on switch. 
>> 
>> She started right up. 
>> 
>> I then replaced my treasured NOS Mopar condenser I had bought on E Bay when I had gone on a buying spree for higher quality ignition parts. I replaced it with an AutoZone condenser and all is well now.
>> That tool is worth its weight in gold and well worth the $80 they cost.
>> Mike Moore
>> 300H 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 



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Posted by: Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
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