Re: [Chrysler300] core plugs/392

I do have a tool to install plugs with the engine installed.

Consists of a bent handle/shaft with a ball socket on the end.

The socket is threaded and there are several ends that screw on it to fit the plug being driven.

This is a commercially available tool, I'll look Saturday in my tools and see if there is a Mfg. # and name.

I have used it several times and never had a problem installing or after installing.

In my "L" I installed several Marine Brass plugs when I discovered the original steel ones were rusted away, leaving only mud sealing the hole.

I cleaned out the mud, using a bent hanger, and then flushed the block with Battery Acid. Don't ask why, seemed right at the time...

It did clean up the inside of the water jacket as far as I could see, and after the plug went in, there were no more problems.

When parked, the "L" had over 500,000 miles on it and still ran great, never had the heads off, had cold air and went thru 3 transmissions.

Been parked since 1987, drive it onto the trailer to bring it our to Mena in 1996 or so nd it hasn't run since, low frozen.

Hope to get to it this year or sell it...

Ray

On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 7:20 PM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks Bob .. Kind of zeroing in on hot heads type .. Wing and bolt .. Cannot come out . They would not make them if not a need . But engine is all done --in car .
All of us should just use HH plugs , or test at 20 + psi? Before install . You have very little time if block one pops = empty in 30 sec ? Heads empty , could cost you an engine as no steam , till later . I am thinking test at 20-25 psi ?

On May 28, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Your woe is not uncommon.

Your disc style, yes, not hit hard enough when installed.
That is pretty much it.
Not enough deform to hold.
I know of no specification as to how much is right.

Ray Jones has a tool to do it. I don't.
Maybe the tool has a depth gauge. I bet he will let you
borrow it.

It was 62 when they went to cup style (pretty sure it was 62).
Anyway, you can't use cup style plugs on your engine because the block
isn't machined for it.

On 5/28/2015 2:46 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:

Hi,

Took out the finally finished , really nice 300C convert this AM (Gauguin (sp?) red!) ,promptly lost a core plug in first two miles, of course the one behind the motor mount (hey it could have been one on the head) .

All were new, supposedly Pro installed, by marine Chevy engine shop in California before I bought the block from them (300D block) ; at bottom of empty hole is what looks like RTV or Silicone , probably both wrong (Indian head, or Permatex, to me, belongs there ) ,but even more important , they were the thick flat disc type..looked dented in, but how can you tell if dented enough ? It did not hold.

I have new ones I sort of hoarded 25 years ago, of brass, to replace it, they do work--- it seems ---if in right , so this one was NOT in right , no rust issues, clean.

So not hit hard enough? How do you tell. I know brass cup type is “preferred” but that means ?machining? step out of hole ,engine is in car , all new and painted . I am SURE someone in 300 land knows all about this. Now I am afraid some other one will pop out, not pretty at all. Removed! ?incorrect? 15 psi cap for 7 psi , but overheating not involved,--not set in right in hole is my diagnosis . Cannot bring myself to put in rubber ones..

Help help !!

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Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?