FW: [Chrysler300] Power Window Wars

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

-----Original Message-----
From: John Grady [mailto:jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 2:33 PM
To: 'tleed'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Power Window Wars

Ampere Hour ; 80 AH full battery will deliver 20 Amp for 4 hours; 8 Amp for
10 hours , 80A for 1 hour etc; not exact, but you get idea; best way to
compare batteries, not CCA . 20 hour rate is usually used for rating..in
this case 4 A for 20 hours.

Generally the heaviest biggest batteries have highest AH; way to buy is by
weight , if of same design

-----Original Message-----
From: tleed [mailto:tleed64@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:52 PM
To: John Grady
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Power Window Wars

What is AH?

Thomas
540-818-0767
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 18, 2014, at 1:11 PM, "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I would use the other power windows as an indicator, or ability to 
> crank car,  as indicators of battery. The super duper battery chargers 
> are mostly BS ,as you can tell very little of AH or battery charge 
> state from terminal volts at rest. (engineering fact) Your observation 
> of "charge time makes no sense" is right...% full impossible to tell, 
> from volts, despite fancy claims.  Went through this..consider a 
> battery of 80 AH , a good one fully charged, rest volts about 12.6 .
> Takes about 2 + hours to fill if dead with
> 35 A alternator ; however if full and you put a trickle charger etc on 
> it over storage (winter) , they are putting out about 100mA ; = .1 amp 
> ; in 24 hours you have 2.4 AH, in 30 days 72 AH; into a battery 
> already full. (2x
> overcharge) that turns the water to gas, battery is junk after a few 
> months of this. Automatic chargers read volts and try to deal with 
> this , but an unloaded resting good charged battery with 10 AH might 
> read 12.6,  as will a bad battery,  as will a full battery. Automatic
turns on, because of the
> 12.6,   raises to 13.8 and off; repeats, over and over . = See
> overcharge!!...Approach is a loser. Sick of buying 4-5 batteries every 
> spring. Now I put it on once a month for a few days. Many battery 
> chargers read battery volts by a divider resistor , draining battery 
> into charger if you just unplug the charger --you have to pull clips 
> too..../especially junk ones harbor tool sells. (LED is still on when 
> not plugged in,  showing that drain). Note that the car VR raises it 
> to 14 or so, only when car is running..it sits then for a long time ; 
> there is no attempt to maintain charge , once full, just fill it back 
> up to 14 at start --it IS full at 14 on charge for sure . I noted 10 
> year old Toyotas run like that, still have original battery, yet 300 
> big new battery on "fancy charger" cannot make one winter without
degradation ?
> 
> Back to PW, You could measure amp draw of motor with 0-20 or 0-30 
> ammeter, ought to be same up and down with spring right, compare what 
> you see to others  ; beyond battery , you might have a problem in 
> motor, stuck brush in brush holder,---ammeter will flicker and 
> waver(and brush is burning)  ; assume all rollers free and working. On 
> early ones (Some F for sure) there is a circuit breaker inside the 
> motor at brush. It can get rusty and poor contact, erratic behavior ; 
> I have shorted them out,(solder wire across it) there to protect motor 
> from burnout if kid holds switch after window is
> up,-- I have taken to drilling drain hole .060 at obvious low place, 
> heater motors too, get condensation out.
> 
> Best, John G
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> On Behalf Of 'DeBusk Thomas L.' tleed@xxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 11:55 AM
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Power Window Wars
> 
> A little while ago, the three little nylon gear plugs in the front 
> passenger window motor in my Hurst vaporized. Not to worry. I just 
> replaced the ones in the driver's side last summer, so with the 
> benefit of experience, I figured the passenger's side would be a 
> breeze. And since Advance Auto sells the exact parts I needed as 
> "Window Regulator Gear Plugs", Item #74410 (for late-model FORDS!), I knew
exactly what I needed.
> 
> If only life could be so easy.
> 
> Of course I knew the mechanism is spring-loaded. But a client called 
> me on the phone while I was working. Nearly took my fingers off when 
> the clock spring let go! (Focus, focus.)
> 
> Now if someone wants to chime in with a safe, foolproof way to unload 
> the spring pressure, then I'm all ears, but that's not my most 
> pressing question.
> 
> After I got finished re-installing at midnight last night, the window 
> was very sluggish going up. Just about refused. Well, I had the car on 
> the battery charger intermittently through the winter, and I hadn't 
> driven it yet this summer because the window wouldn't go up. But the 
> battery was low when I started the window work a few days ago, so I 
> put the charger on it. I have a super-duper modern charger that tells 
> me the battery percentage and volts currently in the battery. After 
> charging and before starting on the window, it was at 100% charge. But 
> by the time I was ready to raise the window, the door had been open 
> for a couple of hours, and the dome light had been draining the 
> battery. I had taken the charger off the battery when I started 
> working on the window, and it now showed only 80% charge when I hooked it
back up.
> 
> After only 15-20 minutes, the charger showed 95% charge, which is a 
> little odd, because it shouldn't charge that fast if you have 80%. But 
> the window worked significantly better. In fact, both front windows 
> had been super-sluggish when the charger read 80%, but both worked OK 
> when it was reading 95%.
> 
> So here's my question. Is there a "proper" amount of tension on the 
> clock spring when you re-install it? I basically just mounted the 
> center on the split pin and then wound the arm around to the post it 
> engages. Considering how much tension is there, I was just happy to 
> get it installed. I wasn't really thinking about putting extra tension 
> on it. But if I understand it's purpose correctly, it's there to 
> support the weight of the window; the motor just moves the window.
> What I'm asking is how much of the weight of the window is the spring 
> supposed to carry? A lot? Or just a little? Is it possible to put more 
> tension on it by installing it a certain way, or by putting it in a 
> vice and mechanically leveraging the arm? Is that either possible,
desirable, or necessary?
> 
> Given my scenario, I'm trying to figure out whether I need to go back 
> into both doors and "tighten up" the springs, however you might do 
> that, because they're not "carrying their weight" sufficiently, or am 
> I dealing with a weak battery that's trying to tell me it's time to
replace it?
> 
> Thomas DeBusk
> 
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: "DeBusk Thomas L." <tleed@xxxxxxxx>
> ------------------------------------
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
------------------------------------

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