[Chrysler300] I know this WILL come up again sometime

["paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

SO you can file this for future references porpoises

Copied this from another Mopar specific mailing list.

Ain't the joys of modern automotive chemistry grand??

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 >    Posted by: "Ed" lexus4jie@xxxxxxxxx lexus4jie
 >    Date: Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:11 pm ((PDT))

> Thanks for all the input. I believe Green coolant lasts 3 yrs. I
> heard  it's environmentally bad. Red lasts 100k miles / 5 yrs.
> I don't plan to change it more than once in 5 years using the red
> stuff.

> Don't take this the wrong way anyone but I think once a year seems
> way  too often, and who has the time with all the cars my family owns.

> My problem with this barracuda is I used orange Dex-Cool when I
 > installed the engine 10 years ago and I may go with red or green
 > this time. So I need to flush & drain it well. Mixing colors is
 > really bad.

> What color do you guys use?

Color has nothing to do with the antifreeze chemistry. All antifreeze
is ~90% ethylene glycol. The balance is the additive package. A
colored dye is added to help identify it as something you should not
drink. Ingesting less than a cup of ethylene glycol will kill you via
kidney failure. The antidote for mammalian ingestion is ethanol (grain
alcohol). Yes, if your dog laps up some antifreeze, and you can quickly
get him to a vet, they will start an ethanol IV. The dog will be drunk
and have a nasty hangover. The metabolism of the ethanol keeps the
kidneys busy, so the ethylene glycol passes through unmetabolized.

There are three basic chemistries of antifreeze additive packages. The
conventional green stuff has a silicate based package. There's also
Organic Acid Technology (OAT), e.g. DexCool. Finally there's Hybrid
Organic Acid Technology (HOAT), which is what most of the auto makers
are now using.

DexCool is an excellent product that has received a lot of bad press.
All of the problems are the result of drivers not maintaining their
cooling systems. DexCool cannot be exposed to air in the cooling
system. Any air will cause it to form a gel-like sludge. The
recommended replacement interval is 5 years. I've gone 7 years in my
2000 Safari van with 270K miles. I just changed it for the second time
a few months ago. The block drain plugs have no corrosion. Anyone who
has a GM vehicle needs to replace the radiator cap with every coolant
change, using a genuine GM cap (not any aftermarket brand). There's a
GM TSB about how to properly service the cooling systems and clean out
the sludge. Note that DexCool should not be used if you have brass in
your cooling system (e.g. heater core). Brass is an alloy containing
copper and zinc. The zinc is reactive with acids, and is corroded out
of the alloy. What remains is a sponge-like structure of copper, which
has no physical strength. This corrosion process is called
dezincification. Its what happens to old brass pipes in your house. Take
a look at old brass pipes and you will see mineral buildup around
pinhole leaks. Put a pipe wrench on the pipe and it will crush and fall
apart.

Conventional silicate-based antifreeze provides corrosion protection by
plating out onto aluminum surfaces with every thermal cycle. The
average car will have 80% or more of its additive package depleted after
one year. The downside to using this type of coolant is that it forms
silicate crystals in the water pump seal. The seal has to weep a
miniscule amount of coolant (as does any seal with any fluid) in order
to seal. The crystals are extremely abrasive. My Safari still has the
original water pump because DexCool doesn't damage the seal.
Conventional antifreeze should be chemically tested with test strips for
a quick go/no-go test. If you don't do any testing, plan to replace it
once a year for a regular-use car, or 2-3 years for a garage queen.
Your water pump will be leaking long before the bearings wear out.

HOAT is a good balance for a long-life coolant. I recommend "Zerex
G-05". The label lists the specific auto maker spec numbers. Its OK
for Ford, Audi and many others, as well as for our older cars. It can
be used with brass cooling system components. Do not use antifreeze
that says "Recommended for..." without listing the specific approval
numbers; there's no way to know what additive package is in this stuff.
HOAT is good for 5 years or 100K miles, whichever occurs first.

Conventional antifreeze can be used to top-off OAT and HOAT in an
emergency, but you lose the long-life property. You will need to flush
and replace it after one year. Use the correct antifreeze for best results.

To clean your cooling system in preparation for new coolant, first open
the radiator and block drain(s). Replace them as necessary. Prestone
used to make "Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner" in a yellow cardboard tube.
Its discontinued, but GM lists it with a GM part number. The package
contained oxalic acid in one end, and sodium carbonate in the other.
The oxalic acid has to be dissolved into hot water in a plastic bucket
(wear a dust mask so you don't inhale the dust), then poured into the
cooling system. Top off with clear water. Run the engine for an hour
or two with the heater in operation, or take it for a drive if you can
do it without overheating. Drain the acid solution and fill with clear
water. Run the engine for a few minutes, then drain. Dissolve the
sodium carbonate in water and pour into the cooling system. Top off
with clear water. Run the engine until hot, then drain. Refill with
clear water and run it again, then drain. You can use low pressure
compressed air to blow out the heater core. Install the drains and fill
with 50/50 or 60/40 concentration of antifreeze and distilled water.
Install an overflow tank if you don't already have one. Install a new
double seal radiator cap (it will have a rubber seal where it contacts
the top of the filler neck). Keep enough coolant in the overflow tank
so the system doesn't suck air when it cools. Make an entry in your
maintenance log, with a reminder to change the coolant in 5 years.

Oxalic acid is also used as wood bleach, so your hardware store may have
it. I bought a lifetime supply a few years ago and would be happy to
mail some for a few bucks to anyone who needs it. I think I have about
45 pounds left.

Sodium carbonate can be found in the laundry soap aisle of the
supermarket. Look for "Washing Soda"; it will probably be on the shelf
next to Borax. You can also find it in pool and spa supply stores as
"pH Increaser". Read the ingredients on the label to make sure its pure
sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate should be in your garage anyway,
since its used to make the electrolyte solution for electrolytic rust
removal. I did a rust removal post a long time ago if you want to
search the archives, or just Google "electrolytic rust removal".

There's a how-to video on the Mopar Mailing List website
www.moparmailinglist.com

Finally, there are some engines that require a specific antifreeze.
Using the wrong product will result in damage. An example is certain
Ford Diesel engines. Using anything other than the specified coolant
will cause the cylinder walls to become eroded by cavitation, destroying
the engine.

Ken Mayer

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-- 
Paul Holmgren
GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY.
GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL.
LAUGHING AT YOURSELF IS THERAPEUTIC,
and YOU MAY AS  WELL, EVERYONE ELSE IS!


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Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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