Re: [Chrysler300] Trailer Size?
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [Chrysler300] Trailer Size?





Agree with 24 ft - easier to tie down and place to put anything you find at a show that needs to go home with you.

As to door - Other option - which is what we did with race car was to put it in backwards - easy to do with a winch. Standard door option at that time was only a door on side away from traffic.

Still prefer heavier axles and tires/wheels - we had a problem with rim failure initially - but I think that was aggravated by fact that it was triple axle and there was a lot of tire scrub on turns. Ended up going with heavier truck wheels and never had a problem after that.

On 3/5/2014 8:39 AM, jmaiani@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
 ED,  I have a 24' enclosed haulmark with dual 5000 lb axles and 8000 winch.  There is plenty of room in front and back to tie down car.  My only suggestion would be to get the door on the driver side.  In my trailer, the doors don't open above the wheel hub, so it is a job getting out of my H once I'm in the trailer.  A convertible would be easier.  So to finallize: get 5000 lb axles and a door on the driver side.

Jim Maiani
Houghton lake, MI
H



On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 11:39 PM, Edward Mills Antique Tractors wrote:

   The late 300's are almost 19 ft by themselves. I keep one in a 10x20     storage and with an 8 ft wide door it is tight on all dimensions.     And yes I know a 20 ft long space with walls is less than 20 ft     usable - more like 19 ft - I expect an enclosed trailer may be the     same. I think you would be unhappy with only 20 ft length - maybe 22     would be OK, but 24 would be better still.

I have an open tilt trailer that has a 20 ft tilt deck plus 4 foot     fixed in front of the tilt section. The extra 4 ft really comes in     handy if you are carrying any parts or spares - I brought home a     spare engine in front of a car once.

As to entry / exit, we had an enclosed race trailer once - typically     we crawled in and out an open window because we could not open car     doors due to trailer inner fenders. (Deck was about as low as we     could go to clear the axles and fenders were inboard with side walls     were near the outside edge of tires.) Even then it was tight and I     was 30 ish and much thinner than now. You could crawl out the back,     but the side door was much more convenient then - let alone 30 years     older and 40 pounds heavier.

I went heavy duty on everything - 2 x 7500 pound axles with electric     brakes and 235/80R16 Load Range E tires. Why - because it was not     that much more expensive compared to what I was spending and I     figured I was buying a trailer to last for future use that may not     be unique to a single car.

But I went cheap on the open part but added the tilt which I really     like. If you are going enclosed with a drop down door, you obviously     don't want / need the tilt, but If you are going to the expense of     an enclosed trailer for an expensive car, I would keep the side     door, probably go 22 or 24 ft length and 2 x 7500 pound axles and     don't forget the failsafe brake if trailer becomes disconnected -     and make sure its wired to keep the little battery charged.

Also don't know what the current lighting requirements are by     length, but I've seen a lot of 18-20 ft trailers with no side marker     lights. I'd ask for front amber corner lights and rear side marker     lights. If you go with fenders extending outside the body, I would     also consider marker lights there - it makes backing up at night     easier if you know where the corners are.

best, Ed






On 3/4/2014 9:01 PM, Mwl1967 wrote:

 

Hi Everyone,
 
    I'm sure this must have come up at some point in                 the past but I'd like to open a discussion as to what to                 look for in a enclosed trailer sturdy enough to handle                 the largest of the 300's. I currently have a 20' open                 car carrier with a steel deck that weighs around 2300lbs                 empty with 3500lb axles. Add a full size brute to that                 and I'm running at maximum. Shall I assume an enclosed                 trailer same length will then need to upgrade to 5000lbs                 axles to cover the weight of the car and the trailer?                 What about length? Will a 20' enclosed give me enough                 room to get in front of the loaded car, and down on the                 ground to work the tie downs up front? What about                 trailer construction? Why is a Haulmark Edge twice the                 price of others? Do I need a door on the drivers side of                 the trailer to get in and out of the car? Appreciate any                 input.
 
Mike Laiserin
 




__._,_.___


To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang





__,_._,___


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network Archive Sitemap


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.