RE: [Chrysler300] 300G

Could never find one (a grease) that stayed there...it starts squeaking again; silicone probably best shot at grease; suppliers tell you oh no we fixed all that. with graphite; not true . Lots of BS.

Maybe stock MOOG rubber protected by silicone grease is a thought.

I use silicone brake fluid , just like the military , for the exact same reasons.....long storage not operated. That will stir up a hornet?s nest. I think MIL Spec knows more than opinions, and besides, I agree. Rubber loves silicone, it does not love brake fluids, as old wheel cylinders will show. And no rust pit in the bottom of all your wheel cylinders , right at the piston seal lip, one of eight places is sure to surprise you big time one day , with a single MC. You do not even know if one formed since last year, or last 5 years. There are NO pedal feel problems with pure unaerated silicone, but if you get ANY gas/air in it while pouring you are looking at weeks to get it out.....if ever. Why the soft pedal rep, I think. handling is crucial , cannot just pour in.

From: Edward Mills Antique Tractors [mailto:millserAT@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 6:26 PM
To: John Grady; 'Bob Jasinski'; 'Michael Moore'
Cc: '300'
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G

Any thoughts about grease to prevent squeaks? I know we used a light grease on sway bars on a race car but we had very stiff delrin inserts in blocks if I remember correctly - its been 30+ years.

On 2/25/2014 4:46 PM, John Grady wrote:

Just a note, I believe poly is resistant to oil, more so than rubber, rubber that just falls apart on non pristine engine; this can matter ----a lot. A person with Chem E background may comment more on that.

second , they squeak like crazy , including ?polygraphite?; which is a marketing recovery term. ; I used them in a 67 Cuda 273 convert suspension , liked the stiffness, but hated the squeak. Used also for sway bar hangers where stiffness helps, but sounds like mice under there. I believe they were removed for rubber due to noise.

I think they should be great for motor mounts and tranny mounts . Ever look at an old K frame end , torsion bar rubber swivel bushing? Usually takes a set off center ~ ½? . One clue, tire hits inner fender when backing up on sharp angle turn. As alignment is, er, not there. But I guess smooth ride....

Have used the Schumacher bonded A block mounts that sort of rewrap in so they will not shear off at a bond. I liked those.

Imperial is a great source; period.

Ya take yer pix.....my .02

John Grady

PS Bob , be super extra careful to really take the steering box bolts to frame to their rated torque on your A body, and use high grade , best bolts . Ask me (and Jamie Hyde) how we know. Called the Route 90 lane jump . Every time a truck drafts by you. Yet all steering linkage new and tight. Jamie spotted whole box moving slightly after 4 th time on a lift . Sounds crazy but true . These were front end mechanics....And you do need those leaf spring wraps, or equivalent , or springs will splay out. . A prior owner tossed them.

One more PS, those clear round dials on 67 cuda dash can push in about .060 and mechanically hit gauge needles driving you crazy, the gauge is not bad, it is putting the cover on! Glue clear part to backing while apart!

Car is great now.....!

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bob Jasinski
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 2:26 PM
To: 'Michael Moore'
Cc: '300'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300G

Mike et al,

I am familiar with the concerns about substituting polyurethane front end components in place of OEM rubber originals and have heard and read of others finding the ride objectionable after rebuilding a front end using aftermarket polyurethane parts. In fact, that is the reason I went with original OEM front end components in the A body Barracuda project I have in my garage.

Having written that, I am at a loss to see how that would translate to the same concerns regarding engine mounts. As an example, about 10 years ago, John Hertog wrote a piece for our 300 website tech section, (I think it is still there) about repairing a failed engine mount, by making a "Franken mount", that is, drilling through the broken rubber mount and securing it with a bolt, through the steel into the failed rubber, and back out again thereby allowing the original mount to be placed back into service.

I emailed him with questions about the fix, and asked whether there was any noticeable vibration from the engine transferred to the frame using the Franken mount, and he replied back that he could not notice any difference. Based on this feedback, my thinking was that since he did not notice any difference with his solid, bolted mount, that a poly mount substituted for a rubber OEM mount would have little to no affect.

Anyone on the list have the poly mounts from Imperial Services installed on their car? Did you notice any difference? Another question, if poly is a concern, does anyone know of a service that revulcanates OEM mounts with rubber? As a consultant for the Inc. Club I get calls from individuals dealing with failed motor mounts, and have been referring them to Imp Services. Recently, a high school friend of my daughter asked me for help finding mounts for the '63 Imperial he inherited from his grandparents, and I sold him my spare mount set to help him out as the repops are pricey.

Bob J

From: Michael Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:04 PM
To: Bob Jasinski
Cc: 300
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G

Bob,

I have restored several British sports cars. Polyurethane bushings in all sorts of colors are sold by major parts suppliers, and people love them because "they're stiff" and " they're tough". There is nothing wrong with them. I just prefer not to use them for a subtle reason.

1. Several years ago, Sports and Classic Car Magazine (I think) had a cover story abut a comparison between two MGA's, both of which were on the cover. The cars were identical even to the light blue color. One car was totally original and very low mileage, around 30,000 miles as I recall. The other car was freshly restored using modern materials and parts but still authentic. Two writers left in the two cars for a weekend.They drove a day to the other part of the country, overnighted, then swapped cars the next day for the trip back home. They then compared the cars and wrote about it. They were unanimous that the original car was superior in every way, especially handing and ride. The fresh restoration was very stiff and harsh riding, and not as comfortable for a long trip. It was attributed to several things but one major one was polyurethane bushings and body isolators throughout.

I also had a friend who worked at a British sports car factory and he once mentioned how much trouble the engineering department went to determine exactly what hardness rubber to use in various bushings, They would take it to the test track, record data, then spend time removing softer bushings to install higher hardness bushings or vice versa. A lot of engineering time was spent to get everything as it should be.

Likewise, I personally designed some very large industrial isolators many years ago. I started with something like 85 Shore B hardness, tested, and went to 80 and tested. I eventually selected the exact hardness needed for my application. I have never seen any hardness specification on any isolators and would not expect anyone to ask or answer-like I said, its subtle!

Finally, I restored a 63 E Type a number of years ago. It used OEM or NOS parts wherever possible and no polyurethane in any of the bushings or isolators. It drove like a dream. Then, my son asked me to restore one for him, which I did-but he wanted all the boy racer stuff. Competition shocks, nice red poly bushings , etc. So for a year, I could drive either car as I finished up his car.

I would not have realized how horrible his car was had I not been able to drive my car also. It was a different car-but it was very stiff, and he loves it!

That's my opinion, and there is nothing wrong with poly bushings. They are tough.

Best, Mike Moore

On Feb 12, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Michael,

That's bad news. I just let a spare pair of originals go because I thought I could always get new ones. I wonder how wide spread the problem is, polyurethane is very popular for front end parts. Any others on the list having a bad experience with the repro's? What does Imperial Services have to say? Warranty?

Bob J

From: Michael Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:25 PM
To: Bob Jasinski
Cc: 300
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G

Bob,

Thanks I prefer not to use polyurethane, I have a used floating power poly mount now which is separating, I'd like to find an NOS rubber mount, or a good used one if possible.

Thanks, MIke Moore

On Feb 12, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Michael,

Have you tried this vendor?

http://imperialservices.net/imps.html

Bob J

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Michael Moore
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:16 PM
To: Tom Cox
Cc: Gern Blanstin; 300
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G

Hi Tom,

Jeff responded to my email today and has been terrific help.

I need a NOS 220237 left side engine mount though and he doesn't have them.

Mike Moore

On Feb 12, 2014, at 4:59 AM, Tom Cox <tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Jeff Carter has more parts than you can imagine. Contact him at JC Auto Restoration in Seattle. Google for website and phone number. Great guy; good to work with. He restores our letter cars to perfection but has warehouses full of parts.

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Gern Blanstin
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:06 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G

Hello there,

I'm new to the group and the 300 club. I have two 300k's as well as a 300G that I'm trying to bring up to par. Currently I'm trying to hunt down a pair of inner fender inspection plates for the 300G. Any info on their potential acquisition would be appreciated.

Thanks