Re: [Chrysler300] Air cleaner/valve cover paint color codes

["Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

$280...Ouch !

Did the paint shop do a sprayout for you ? If so, maybe that can be sent to 
Tower Paint so that they can scan it into their database, so that we can 
conveniently order the correct color in a single spray can.

Since you did all the heavy lifting on this, maybe they can name the color 
after you: Ray Melton 300C Air Cleaner Gold.

Ron



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ray Melton" <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 4:14 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Air cleaner/valve cover paint color codes


> Hello All -
>
>
>
> I recently had the air cleaners and valve covers for my 1957 Chrysler 300C
> repainted in what I believe to be the correct shade and gloss level as
> originally supplied.  On the back side of the oval ends of the air cleaner
> housings, I found what I am certain was the original Chrysler color,
> untouched by previous owners who had painted the exterior only.  I had a
> local paint and body shop match the old paint color by trial and error 
> until
> I was completely satisfied with the color - when the custom mix was 
> sprayed
> right on top of a masked portion of the original paint, I could hardly see
> the transition.   The parts were painted with a urethane primer, sanded,
> then two coats of the urethane color base coat, followed by a clear coat
> with approximately 50% flattening agent to give a satin gloss level.  The
> final outcome was a tint slightly more silvery and less reddish-gold than
> the Plasti-kote #452 that had previously been applied, and with a more
> subtle satin gloss, rather than a too-bright high-gloss.
>
>
>
> However, since the color matching was a multi-step trial-and-error process
> (add a little green and silver here, take out some red there, add more
> black, etc.) there was not an easy way for the painter to replicate the
> color for future applications, either by myself or someone else.  So, I 
> took
> the finished pieces to my local paint specialty shop and had them analyze
> the color using a special hand-held electronic color matching device.  In
> less than five minutes, they were able to come up with the formula for
> tinting, and I thought I would share that with other interested members.
>
>
>
> The starting point for the color base coat was one pint DuPont Chromabase
> clear.  I don't know what all the numbers and letters mean, but your own
> paint specialty person will!  Also note that a urethane-compatible primer
> must be applied before the color coat.
>
>
>
> 259663 K   CC: M  CHROMABASE BC      Alt:  (EUR)
>
>                        Daewoo - 67U
>
>            Mix size:  16.0 oz. (pint)
>
>
>
> Tinting Guide:                                            Formula #259663
>
>
>
> 882J               LS yelo oxide                      27.1  (I was told 
> this
> means YELLOW)
>
> 811J               Med aluminum                  45.4
>
> 891J               Transox Red                        62.1
>
> 819J               Fine bright aluminum      69.8
>
> 806J               HS Black                               75.5
>
> 833J               Green Gold                          79.0
>
> 1005S            Gold Pearl                            89.6
>
> 1009S            Super Green PL                  95.2  (I was told the 
> "PL"
> means PEARL)
>
> 150K              B/C Balancer                       317.1
>
> 175K              Binder                                   444.5
>
>
>
> The top coat was DuPont Chromabase clear, with ~50% flattening agent to
> yield a satin gloss level.  Not being an automotive painter myself, I was
> shocked at the price for this base coat/clear coat paint:  the base coat
> alone was $112 for one pint, plus a few bucks more for the activator!  On
> the other hand, the guy who painted my parts mixed up only 8 ounces of 
> color
> base coat, and there was still some left over after applying two coats of
> color,  so that would be only ~$56.00 for a half-pint of the color coat. 
> I
> didn't ask about the cost for the clear top coat, but it will be
> considerably less.  I had the parts stripped and bead-blasted by another
> place ($55.00 - and careful NOT to strip the inner surfaces of the oval 
> air
> cleaner end pieces to preserve for subsequent color-matching!) before 
> taking
> them to the automotive body/paint shop -- the final charge for priming,
> sanding and painting the two air cleaner housings and both valve covers 
> was
> $280.00.
>
>
>
> Note:  I've had no need to try out this formula myself, since my parts are
> already painted, but if you decide to go with the formula above, you might
> want to do a bit of custom color-matching yourself:  do a test shot on a 
> few
> square inches of a smooth metal surface (tin can lid?) and see how you 
> like
> it, then add/subtract tint components to fine-tune to your personal
> preference.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps some of you out there, so you won't have to go through 
> the
> somewhat tedious trial-and-error approach that I did.
>
>
>
> Ray Melton
>
> Las Cruces, NM
>
> 1957 Chrysler 300C convertible   white/Gauguin
>
> 3N572517
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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>



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