Re: [Chrysler300] Garage Plans

[LabLoverDC@xxxxxxx]

We just finished up a 1200 square foot garage addition to our existing  
garage, which was 36' x 28'.  The new garage is an odd shape, because  it 
connects the old free-standing garage to the house.  Also, we wanted it  to be 
architecturally pleasing, so we had to make some tradeoffs re size,  height, 
etc., and the odd shape (5-sides) required a custom design.
 
In general, I agree with most of the comments so far.  I  definitely agree 
that bigger and taller is better, depending upon your  budget.  We settled 
on a 12' 9" height, which accommodates the lift nicely,  and allowed a 12" 
entry door.  I would try to make that your minimum  height.  Unfortunately, we 
have a shallow pitch to match the existing  garage and house, and we used 
engineered trusses (lots of 2 x 4 cross  pieces)  versus regular rafters to 
save money, so we do not have storage  space above.  We couldn't go any 
higher and still have it look the way we  wanted, but if you could, it would be 
nice.
 
Speaking of saving money, we saved about 40% by being the general  
contractor and subcontracting the various trades.  My BF did that part, and  he got 
some incredible deals doing it piecemeal.
 
Someone mentioned a 6" floor; we considered that, but to save money we  
instead poured 2 footers, 3 square feet each, 12" deep under where the  lift 
posts would sit (which of course, we planned out in advance).  Don't  forget 
to allow for a 220 volt outlet in the ceiling.  Someone else  mentioned 
American Automotive lifts--we went with them also, and so far are  pretty pleased 
(except there were a few wrinkles in installation).  For the  price, I 
think it's a very good value.  
 
We located the compressor in the old garage, and piped drops all through  
all the garage areas, which is a nice arrangement.  There are volumes of  
opinions on the best type of piping material, best layout, how to best drain 
the  water, etc.; you might want to research that and see what would work best 
in  your application.
 
I don't know if you are familiar with Hi-Bay lights (basically 6-light  
fixtures with skinny bulbs, and a real nice color temperature).  We put 6  of 
them in and are glad we did.  Basically, they are to supplement the  other 
planned lighting (12 2-bulb fixtures, which was about twice as many  standard 
fluorescents as was recommended), but everyone who comes in comments on  how 
nice and bright it is.  I thought it  was overkill, but we're  really glad 
we did it.  There are no shadows, and we can control 3 six  light circuits 
independently, so we can have it whatever brightness we  choose.
 
I also don't know if ceiling fans are appropriate where you are, but we put 
 them in and that was a nice inexpensive way to keep air circulating 
without  taking up floor space.  We have a 24K BTU A/C system (you probably don't  
need), and use a propane patio heater on the few occasions when we need to 
take  the chill off.  We also designed in doors opposing each other, for a 
flow  through "venturi" effect.  Now, I'm not going to say it's as clever as 
ram  induction, but..........;-)
 
Another thing I haven't heard mentioned is tinting the floor.  We had  our 
concrete tinted a darkish gray, and we like it (although it came out a  
little tie-dyed looking; don't know why).  I think it is attractive, makes  it 
easier to find shiny things you drop, and avoids the need for ever painting  
it.  We also sealed it with a two-part sealer with a little anti-skid  
material thrown in, and the floor seems to be something else people think is  
cool.
 
We also did sort of a custom paint job that you don't see in every  garage. 
 Basically it is dark purple at the bottom 4.5 feet, has a double  "racing 
stripe" above that, and is white above the stripe and on the  ceiling.  
Again, it adds a little wow factor, and cost hardly anything,  because I did the 
taping.
 
The only think I can think of I would do differently is to put more outlets 
 up high, around the 10' level.  We've put up several neon signs to spiff 
up  the place, and I wish I had convenient outlets.
 
There is an interesting web site that specifically deals with garages  
called garagejournal.com/.  You can get lots of  ideas there, and lots of 
opinions on virtually every aspect.
 
Good luck with the project.
 
Shannon
300 G
300 F (soon)
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 1/18/2012 9:43:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

 
 
 
Don't forget the XM/Sirius external radio antenna!!

They don't work  worth a crap in a steel sided bldg.!!

Dave  Schwandt

-----Original Message-----
From: _Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)   
[mailto:_Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) ] 
 On
Behalf Of paul
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 7:29 PM
To:  Chrysler 300 Broadcast
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Garage Plans

On  1/17/2012 7:10 PM, Sam Cohen wrote:
> I'm just finishing a 3500 ft2 shop  with a 2-post lift, 4-post lift and a
pit for working on heavy equipment.  Each has a door in front of it so I
don't have to move non-running vehicles  when I bring in a car to work on. I
put in a 4th door for vehicles that  don't need a lift or pit. We also built
it tall enough to put in a  mezzanine level for storage and tucked a 
bathroom
under the stairs. I went  with a metal building to get clear span and tall
ceilings for the  mezzanine. For metal buildings, you buy them by the pound.
Adding height  and to a lesser extent size costs very little extra. The slab
was the  biggest expense. Also, going with standard building sizes cuts
costs. You  can often find buildings that people put a deposit on and then
backed out.  The factory sells these very cheap. We also built in a
compressor room to  keep the noise level down. Have fun!
>
> Sam Cohen
>  President
> Energy Solutions
> 1610 Harrison Street
>  Oakland, CA 94612
>

ohhh, can I move in next  door???

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