Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Light Switch

[lettercars@xxxxxxx]

All:
>From my experience, the hydraulic brake switch brand has more to do with  
failure than the type of fluid used.  When my 300F convert was  
completed---well, they are never completed, I guess!---I filled the system with  the dot 
5 silicone fluid.  Didn't want to take a chance with the new  paint.  I 
think the first switch got us to the Asheville meet and back  before "packing it 
in".  The second one didn't do much better, as I  recall.  Both these 
switches have an identifying logo of an "S" within what  could be a chebby bowtie 
with the "knot" part rounded instead of squared.   I have no idea of the 
manufacturer, but am sure one or more of you will  recognize it.
Anyway---I put in a third switch that, if memory serves, I obtained  from 
Andy Bernbaum.  Actually bought two.  These switches are from a  different 
manufacturer, Fasco Industries, Inc, Rochester, NY, USA.  (I  guess the F in 
Fasco could be an "E")  These switches have only the male  terminal extending 
above the surface, whereas with the others ("S" brand),  the two terminals 
are the same length.
Ok, now to the most important part.  After installing the Fasco  switch, I 
proceeded to take apart the failed "S" switch.  There was  absolutely NO 
brake fluid residue in the contact area.  There is a rubber  seal which seems 
to have done its job.  The actual contacts are two spot  points and a ring.  
Reminded me somewhat of a starter solenoid  arrangement.  The problem seemed 
to be significant non-conductive buildup  on the contact surfaces.  Again, 
I could see NO sign of any  fluid.
So...that is my experience.  The "Bernbaum" switch has been in my car  for 
quite a number of years now, and has made trips to meets in Cleveland,  
Chicago, Springfield, IL, and Lancaster, PA, at least.  So far, works  fine.  
Perhaps my experience will contribute a little more info  to our hydraulic 
brake switch discussions.
 
Oh, yes, we 300F owners do have a little advantage in checking the brake  
lights.  The right rear is very visible from the driver's seat!
300ly, Gil Cunningham
Finally some rain in Tallahassee, FL
 
 
In a message dated 6/28/2011 9:10:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mmoore8425@xxxxxxx writes:

Maybe  I'm jinxing MYSELF too, but I'm using  DOT 3/4 and I think my brake  
switch must be 45 years old at least.
Mike Moore
300H

On Jun 28,  2011, at 6:02 AM, Don Verity wrote:

> Maybe I'm jinxing myself here,  but I run dot 5 and I've had the same 
switch in for over 4 years. 
>  300ly,
> Don
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Herb  
> To: Michael Reed ; Chrysler 300 List 
> Sent: Monday, June 27,  2011 2:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Light Switch
>  
> FYI - if your using DOT-5 it's going to destroy your new one in due  time,
> and purchase several spares for future changes. Plug the line  and 
install a
> manual switch by your brake pedal and reroute your brake  light wiring. 
> 
>    
> Herb 
> 
> 1956  Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale 
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 
> 1961  Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly 
> 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant  Six 4-Sale 
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible  361 
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440 
> 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport  Wagon 360 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L  
> St. Louis, MO. 
> 
> -------Original Message-------  
> 
> From: Michael Reed 
> Date: 6/27/2011 10:50:38 AM  
> To: Chrysler 300 Club 
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Light  Switch 
> 
> The brake light switch on my "F" has failed. Can  someone tell me if the
> nipple on the switch is 1/8" thread size?  
> 
> I find no auto parts stores listing the switch specifically  for a 
Chrysler
> of the era, but it appears that the 1/8" nipple brake  light switch is
> commonly available. 
> 
> Thanks for any  help. 
> 
> Mike Reed in Lake Odessa, Michigan 
> 
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 
> 
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  



[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]



------------------------------------

To send a  message to this group, send an email  to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send  an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the 
"Leave  Group" button

For list server instructions, go to  
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to  
http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups  Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/