RE: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump

["Gary Nelson" <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tom 

Besides likely made in China, I bet the bearings are not a/c specific. That is to say, I stock an a/c bearing. The difference, they have roller bearings and not ball bearings.
This allows for much higher tensions demanded with a/c. 
You may want to consider rebuilding your pump using my a/c water pump kit. $35 w/ bearing, seal, and gasket. I can also re-build a core I have for $105. I am sure that will be more than a foreign import. I think I only have 8 a/c bearings in stock. Now is the time to order.
Thank you,
Gary, the parts doc
Reno, Nevada 89521 USA
The Biggest Little City In The World
Mail: garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
775 851-1420






  -----Original Message-----
  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Thomas Cox
  Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2010 10:51 AM
  To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump


    
  I traveled to the Chicago meet in my F convert, during which I threw at least 
  two water pump belts. Upon arriving in Chicago, several guys that know a lot 
  more than I do about the F engine noticed that the fan pulley was not lined up 
  with the crank pulley. All suggested shimming out the fan  pulley which we did 
  by about 3/16”. I drove home and all seemed well; no belts thrown and car ran 
  fine.
   
  After arriving home, the engine was properly broken in and I began to increase 
  the speeds I drove. Shortly thereafter, the water pump failed as I slowed down 
  from about 4,000 rpms. I did have another water pump in the trunk and I replaced 
  it. 

   
  Within 50 miles, that water pump failed while driving about 60 mph on the 
  interstate, taking out the radiator. 

   
  So, I bought a NAPA replacement water pump, replaced the water pump with failed 
  bearings, had the radiator repaired and installed, cranked it up and it idled 
  nicely for about 30 minutes, at which time I shut it down. Upon start-up, the 
  new NAPA water pump failed.
   
  I am at a loss at what to do. The belts are not too tight. My only thought is 
  that shimming out the water pump may have put too much stress on the water pump 
  with a fairly heavy fan/clutch assembly. Any other suggestions?? I can’t afford 
  another radiator rebuild and I am afraid to drive the car any distance. I can’t 
  understand why I could drive the car nearly 1,000 miles with the shimmed out 
  pulley, yet I can’t keep a water pump operating without the bearings failing. 
  Help!!!

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

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