[Chrysler300] Stainless restoration from keith "boom boom" boonstra

[Bill Leahy <bleahy@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

thanks keith, i will take a shot at trying to improve a few of my 
stainless pieces / billllllll with the hydroplane boats in town for the 
weekend / yahooooooo
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> Takes more patience than brains to do it, but stainless repair is 
> really pretty straight forward.  I may start with 80 or 120 grit 
> papers to get down below the deepest scratches, always using a sanding 
> block such as a popsicle stick.  Then I carefully reverse any dings 
> from the back side by using gentle tapping with some sort of flat 
> ended punch, putting the piece on an anvil which may be the benchtop 
> itself or another stick.  The annoying part here is that have to chase 
> the part all over the bench when I'm tapping out the dents - haven't 
> figured out the solution to that yet.
>
> I go back to the front side with the sanding block frequently - using 
> a little finer paper - to show up how I'm doing with the ding.  I also 
> use the sandpaper on the back side now and then to see exactly where 
> the ding pimple is.  Then when I have very slightly over-corrected the 
> ding I can block sand that front pimple off level.  After that it's 
> just a matter of going to finer and finer papers to finish the surface 
> shaping, ending with something like 400 grit.  The finer papers can be 
> done without the block backer to get rid of any blocking facets on the 
> contour.
>
> Then I take it down to the local polisher where he four-steps it to a 
> final mirror finish.  A soap and water bath and a coat of NuFinish 
> dolls 'er up, and you're ready to hang it on.  My guess is I'll 
> probably work on that stone shield from you for maybe five hours or 
> so.  I'm sure the pros do it faster, but they use both hands for work 
> instead of using one to hold a beer.
>
> Keith Boonstra
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