[Chrysler300] Another simple fix for battery disconnect

["Richard Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

Thanks for all the input on this minor, but interesting subject.  After
reading all the posts with interest, I removed the ugly little brass and
green knob, replaced the nut on the positive ground post cable end bolt with
a wing nut, installed those little red and green felt anti-corrosion
washers, rigorously cleaned the posts and cable end clamp internals, slipped
grandpa?s old ½? open-end wrench in the battery tray next to the battery and
snugged everything up.  The felt washer elevated the cable-end clamp just
enough to spin the wing nut after I had relieved part of the lead cable
clamp with a wood rasp.  Tomorrow, I?ll try and find some of that
Kopr-Shield stuff.

If I remember, I?ll change out the wing nut for a hex nut at the next
concours judging.  In the mean time, I feel I have a safe, reliable, cheap,
easy to operate and effective solution, although it has no anti-theft
protection.

I?m also reporting/repeating an excellent 6-Volt battery for the ?55 C300.
It is the Workaholic by Interstate Battery, a Group 2 with the proper
dimensions and top post locations.  Model 2XHD.  600 CCA, 750 CA.  A black
battery with three black plastic stoppers-friction fit.  Any suggestions for
proper color of the stoppers?  Red, green or ???  By removing the vinyl
warning tags, it looks fairly authentic and innocuous.	 I think I heard
there is no judging penalty for a black battery and I?ve not heard any good
reports about the longevity of the reproduction batteries.

Onward to bigger and better things.  Thanks for the input.

Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA-Pushing 100 degrees at 4:30 PM.
1955 Chrysler C-300

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of lettercars@xxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 8:04 AM
To: crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] a simpler fix for battery disconnect

  
Thanks, Fern! How about that for Keeping it Simple? Was wondering about 
that while reading all the complex suggestions for simply removing the 
cable. I have done so for at least 30 years. I make use of Kopr-Shield 
conductive and anti-corrosive surface compound wiped on both the battery
posts 
and terminal clamps. That way a mere twist of the battery cable end either 
disconnects or connects and you are good to park or go. The material is, 
if I remember, available from Eastwood. I use it on all electrical 
connections as well. 
300ly, Gil C.

In a message dated 6/13/2010 10:30:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

I have never found the need for one of those battery disconnects as with 
it you'll end up with a weird adapter. What I've been doing for years is to 
never quite tighten up the negative clamp and then I can easily twist it ON 
or OFF without use of tools. I always disconnect the negative cable 
whenever I park the car at either a car show or it's storage area. My theory
is 
that it's hard to have an electrical fire if you don't have a dc loop in the

vehicle. Just my 2 cents worth. 
Fern with 300L ht and 300H conv




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