Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
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Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
- From: Keith Boonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:13:51 -0400
An update on the previous info regarding the M36063 that I received---
Turns out on further inspection the box says Made in USA and the
manufacturing is by "R & B Inc." in PA. The casting itself also says
Made in USA.
I'm sure Dorman buys parts from all over, but it looks like in this case
at least it's a good part for the need.
Keith Boonstra
-
Don Verity wrote:
> Just to let everyone know, not all Dorman products are made in this
> country. I recently got a master cylinder and wheel cylinders that
> were made in China. Had I known that in advance, I would not have
> bought them. From Rock Auto BTW.
> 300ly,
> Don Verity
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Keith Boonstra <mailto:kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> *To:* Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> *Cc:* Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:59 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
>
>
>
> Just wanted to let y'all know -- A few minutes ago UPS delivered me a
> brand new Made in USA master cylinder. It's a Dorman #M36063. It
> looks
> to be a dead-on perfect replacement. I paid $62.99 + $9.29 shipping
> from Parts Highway. Fabulous deal!
>
> Keith Boonstra
>
> -
>
> Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > My 300C brakes have failed twice. Both times were at 20-25 mph
> with no
> > warnings.
> >
> > What worked for me?
> >
> > I'd rehearsed for that dreaded failure based on experiences with
> other
> > cars.
> >
> > Steer toward any open space (consider lawns and open sidewalks )
> >
> > Press 1 to downshift (scrubs off a fair amount of speed)
> >
> > Pull handbrake. It works. Hearing now there could be parking
> brake or
> > driveshaft damage, I would still
> >
> > trade that over body damage.
> >
> > Luck also helps.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx <mailto:moparpjf%40aol.com>
> <mailto:moparpjf%40aol.com>
> > To: robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net>
> <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net>,
> > hurst300@xxxxxxxxxx <mailto:hurst300%40hughes.net>
> <mailto:hurst300%40hughes.net>
> > Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 11:38:57 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
> Eastern
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
> >
> >
> >
> > Query:
> >
> > Why not push the buttons for the lower gears (1 or 2)? Strikes me
> > that downshifting the car into first or second would have a better
> > effect than
> > having it in reverse with an automatic kick out into neutral.
> >
> > Pete Fitch
> >
> > In a message dated 4/21/2010 9:02:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net>
> <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net> writes:
> >
> > Hello 300'ly to all!
> > My Dad did the similar thing with tail gaters with our '57
> DeSoto. He
> > would gently push the reverse button to engage the back-up
> lights. Worked
> > like a charm. The transmission has a safety default in that
> pushing the
> > reverse button when in drive at speeds 15 mph or greater will
> move the
> > manual
> > control lever to the neutral position and when the vehicle drops
> to less
> > than 15 mph it will be necessary to reposition the R button. ROB
> KERN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ray Jones
> > Cc: Chrysler 300 Broadcast
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 6:50 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
> >
> > On Apr 21, 2010, at 12:37 PM, keboonstra wrote:
> >
> > And how about this related question. Suppose your brakes went
> out and all
> > you now had was your parking brake to save you from certain
> mayhem. Would
> > you pull the brake just a little to slow down gradually and risk
> > having it
> > fade and become useless? Or would you pull it decisively so as
> to lock
> > it up
> > before it has a chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it too
> > hard at
> > speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing?
> >
> > >>> I seem to remember that the California Hi-way patrol tested
> cars
> > every
> > year for suitability for use by them. Mopars failed the
> "Emergency stop"
> > test regularly.
> > I remember photos of the Driveshaft being snapped off, either
> leaving the
> > car with nothing or actually dropping to the road and causing more
> > problems.
> > I also think that this was the reason Mopar went to standard
> rear drum
> > emergency brakes, loss of sales of fleet cars. I think there is
> a Hot
> > Rod mag
> > article on this test.
> >
> > Or how about hitting the "R" button at road speed? Is there a
> lockout to
> > keep it from going to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may
> > possibly
> > throw your car in a spin, but prudently done it might be better than
> > coasting a half mile looking for a soft tree to stop you.
> >
> > >>> Won't work. My buddy had a new '57 Fury and he would push
> the "R"
> > button if someone was too close.
> > He also did this once at over 100 with some Bad Bikers chasing
> us and
> > they
> > faded fast when those back-up lights came on!
> >
> > Ray
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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