
Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
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Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion
- From: Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:48:43 -0400
As a person who has experienced MC failure, not
on a 300, but on a couple of older Mopars, I can
tell you that the car feels like you just pressed
the gas pedal. It's a terrible and helpless
feeling, luckily for me didn't involve any
collisions. A couple of my old Plymdogs had
emergency brakes so weak that I could drive off
with the brake set and never know it till I saw
smoke, so I don't consider that a reliable back up.
The failure mode that I have experienced was slow
and almost invisible leakage of fluid till the MC
was empty. Empty means all the pumping in the world won't bring pressure.
For a trailer queen or seldom driven car,
probably a sleeved MC would suffice, but for a
regularly driven car my vote would be for a
double MC. Two systems are better than one.
Bill Huff
At 4/21/201001:37 PM, keboonstra wrote:
>
>
>
>I'm doing a high quality "driver restoration" to
>factory correct on our 300C, and I am
>considering the idea of converting to a dual
>master cylinder system if I can work up enough
>worry about the single cylinder system. I've
>never had a problem with loss of braking in my
>lifetime of driving, and have heard or read of
>very few cases where it happened to someone.
>
>If I make sure I have a very well freshened
>brake system throughout my car, how much concern
>should I have about a single master? Changing to
>dual would be my only concession to modernity
>other than the installation of seat belts and
>radials in my car, and I don't get pulled easily
>over to the "updating" side in our old car
>hobby. I really enjoy experiencing the way an
>old car acts for the most part, but I want to
>keep safety in mind as well. What do you think?
>
>And how about this related question. Suppose
>your brakes went out and all you now had was
>your parking brake to save you from certain
>mayhem. Would you pull the brake just a little
>to slow down gradually and risk having it fade
>and become useless? Or would you pull it
>decisively so as to lock it up before it has a
>chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it
>too hard at speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing?
>
>Or how about hitting the "R" button at road
>speed? Is there a lockout to keep it from going
>to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may
>possibly throw your car in a spin, but prudently
>done it might be better than coasting a half
>mile looking for a soft tree to stop you.
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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