
Re: [Chrysler300] Dropping acid not recommended
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Re: [Chrysler300] Dropping acid not recommended
- From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 17:25:48 -0500
Back in the day...
When my 300-L started overheating, I worked in an automotive shop. One
shop night, I drained and flushed the system (into the center drain,
back ion the Y&D days) but it was still "muddy" inside. I then poured
a gallon of battery acid in and ran it with that for a while. I added
more water and kept it running then opened the drain and ran it for a
1/2 hour or so with water running thru it from the hose.
This did a great job of cleaning it out, but didn't get the "mud" deep
in the block out.
Later When I opened the drains on the side of the block, they didn't
drain. I pulled out the freeze plugs (OK, welch plugs) and used a coat
hanger and air and water pressure to clean the block passages out.
Replaced them with Brass Marine plugs which are still there today. I
remember that at least 2 plugs had rot holes in them, and the only
thing keeping in the water was the Mud.
Not recommended for many reasons, but it worked for me.
Ray
\
On Sep 2, 2009, at 4:40 PM, Richard Barber wrote:
Acidizing chemical plant process piping to remove corrosion and deposits
with minimal attack of the good stuff is done with inhibited muriatic
(hydrochloric) acid--often with heat and almost always with
circulation. I
would not recommend it for motor vehicle (c3oo)ling systems as the
inhibitors prevent attack of metallic components and are carefully
selected
and dosed for the job.
Disposal of spent acid solution must also be done carefully to protect
the
environment, eyes, skin, paint, garage floors, sewer piping and the
wastewater treatment plant. If you decide to play boy chemist, rubber
gloves and goggles are recommended--as well as plastic (not galvanized)
buckets to catch the cleaning solution.
C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
1955 Chrysler C-300
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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