Re: [Chrysler300] Short lesson in thermodam

[Tony Braams <tonybraams@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hello John and group,
We in Australia have had problems in summer with hot running 360 
engines, esp. with a/c in traffic.
A solution for the smallblock is to restrict the bypass hose from intake 
manifold to water pump, make it smaller in diameter or some people block 
it off completly, probably not a good idea.
Thread the water pump bypass outlet and fit hose barbs of 1/2 inch, 
instead of 3/4 inch, to w/pump and intake.
Then more water must go thru the radiator, instead of circulating in block.
This makes a huge difference, but no good for quick warmup or cold climates.
This is good for a engine which runs a little too hot for whatever 
reason, esp with a/c.
Might suit some people in warmer climates.
I'm not recommending anyone do this, as it probably doesn't really 
follow the rules of mechanics, I don't know.
But I've seen it work to advantage for me.
Anyway if there is a way to restrict the bypass water in a bigblock or 
hotter 440, that may help some or at worst buy a 300 F intake steel 
gasket with the blockoffs for the heat crossover. 
Good luck,
Tony in Oz.

john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>
> I believe the function of the thermostat is the same as in your house- 
> to regulate temperature. It is closed when cold because the engine was 
> designed to operate at 180 or 195 (or whatever the engine spec calls 
> for) and the coolant should not remove heat from the block 
> until/unless that point is reached (winter driving or at start up for 
> instance). The thermostat then opens when desired operating 
> temperature is reached to avoid overheating. If you take the car to a 
> reputable radiator shop they will probably have an infrared heat gun 
> which they can point at the upper radiator hose as it exits the top of 
> the engine which should be the hottest point in the cooling system. 
> The temperature at that point should be within a few degrees of the 
> value of the thermostat when the engine is fully warmed up. If it's 
> much hotter than the thermostat rating then you have something wrong 
> (flow/blockage/timing, etc.)
>
> I currently own a 392 hemi, a 413 wedge, and a 440. I have owned other 
> 413's, 383's, and 440's as well. I am continually amazed at how much 
> more heat appears to come out of a 440 than the other two engines. I 
> have a 190 degree thermostat in my Hurst, and my radiator shop guy 
> used his gun and only got a reading of 193 out of the top radiator 
> hose, but the heat in the engine compartment is way more intense than 
> that of any 413 or 383 or 392, and I attribute that to the exhaust 
> gasses passing through the exhaust manifold and intake crossover port.
>
> I can't keep Mopar Orange Hi temp paint from discoloring on my valve 
> covers since the hi performance manifolds of the TNT engine come so 
> close to them, and I can barely even keep paint on the intake manifold 
> crossover passage. The engine bay on the Hurst is like a blast furnace 
> compared to the C or G engine bay. I even had to replace the 
> (original) o-rings from the top of the power steering gear (where the 
> hoses attach to the flange that is bolted on top of the gear) as they 
> had hardened and crumbled from the heat over the years.
>
> The timing is set properly on all three cars and none of them overheat 
> in the traditional sense of boil over, but man look out when you open 
> the hood on the Hurst relative to the other two.
>
> I had similar issues with the 440 in my Jensen Interceptor automobiles 
> over the years as well- no boil over, but lots of engine bay heat.
>
> If someone out there can tell me this should not be the case and how 
> to remove more heat from my Hurst engine bay it would be greatly 
> appreciated.
>
> Over the years I have tried looking at the engine bays of other Mopars 
> with Hi Performance 440's as a comparison, but usually when I see a 
> GTX or RR with a 440 it also has aftermarket valve covers (Direct 
> Connection or Mopar Performance), unpainted Edelbrock aluminum intake, 
> and aftermarket headers which have all been put on to avoid the 
> brownish tinged original orange paint syndrome that I am living with.
>
> Thanks
>
> John Nowosacki
>
> 978-681-2219
>
> Network Analysis and Troubleshooting Solutions
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> ________________________________
>
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of james mcmullan
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 11:23 AM
> To: Listserver
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Short lesson in thermodam
>
> Hi List .You cannot move Cold ,You can move Heat (ether in or out of 
> something) But it takes TIME .You haft to hold watter in the radiator 
> long enough for the heat to transfer to the core and be removed by air 
> flow.That is the the purpose of the thermostat .If the watter flows to 
> fast it will not have TIME to transfer heat Jim McMullsn 300 F.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 



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