Re: [Chrysler300] brake lining material choices

[MRS954@xxxxxxx]

Hi group,

I have had this brake jamming problem in the past and here's what I've found.

The replacement brake shoes did not have a little tab on the side as the originals had. It's hard to describe without pictures, but on the side of each shoe there is a tab or an inverted bend about half way through the radius, which will rub on a boss on the brake backing plate. This happened on my 69 Dart GT Convertible. The new brake shoes didn't have the little tabs, so when the brakes were applied, the brake shoe would travel out to make contact with the drum, but the shoe would then get stuck just outboard of the boss on the plate. The shoe would not release to its rest position, but would remain lodged against the drum. By backing up, it would release or dislodge the shoe and it would pop back into position. I went back to the store with the original shoes, and they were able to get me another set with the tabs. That fixed my problem. I don't know for sure if the big Chryslers are the same, but it's a possibility.



Regards,

Mark Souders

300H

Mohrsville, PA




-----Original Message-----
From: Ulf Larsson <ulf.larsson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 3:58 am
Subject: [Chrysler300] brake lining material choices




Hi group,

 comment to the subject;  Around here several people got in the same kind of 
rouble with their Chrysler oldies (55-62) when changing the brake linings,  due 
o wear , and in combination with having the
 drums re-sized accordingly.  The 
rakes stuck,  and hopefully one can go reverse in order to get them to release 
gain.  Worse if the grip is bad, like on a gravel area, and the car can remain 
ith the brakes dragging.  We haven´t found the true reasons behind here but 
everal faced the same thing.  Would like to add in the following that it seems 
ike the problem is not when the cars/brakes are cold. After breaking a few 
imes the problem can happen.   The cure?   So far what happened was that no one 
pecified what lining type to use when leaving parts at the brake shop so we 
ssume they put on modern regular stuff and often it won´t work properly.  The 
ure used several now and successfully is to find some old asbestos lining and 
hange the brake material again and problem gets less/ disappear.  Asbestos is 
o longer in use so to enable this cure you´ll have to find some old stock and 
se although actually not allowed.

e have discussed several possible reasons for the problems that occur (unless 
oing for old asbestos lining), like the possibility that the turning of the 
rums is made inappropriate compared to the arc of the linings, (although work 
s made in more than one brake specialist shop with the very same out come),  
ossibly the NORS brake cylinders are not Ok for use universally for all years 
lthough claim to be (without putting shims inbetween to compensate for various 
hicknesses of the drum backing plates used), =2
0possibly use of NORS/or NOS brake 
ines in combination with modern brake fluid,  possibly the way we go about 
djustments,  possibly the pin inbetween the pedal and the master cylinder 
djustment,   etc, etc.   No true reason found yet but the conclusion that old 
sbestos type linings will work and cure the problem.

his is not about to having the drums pulling left or right thing, but that 
rakes get stucked, after stopping they are stucked. Go in reverse and they come 
ree again if you have the friction enough towards the surface to pull them 
ackwards to unstuck.

ur solution so far,  go old rather than go modern.  So here was some more gas 
nto the fire.  Pls comment,  where do we go wrong here?   Sad thing is that 
esides going for old asbestos lining (as long as we can still source them) 
eople also tend to change for disc brakes in front to avoid the problem.  It´s 
ll fine by me, with both AAJ and SSB kits you can modify back again if you 
ike, without any trouble, but, and embarrassed to admit it (nhha, it was a 
reat car also)),  I used to have a GM,  Buick Electra conv from -68.  A big car 
ith a heavy 430" in the front,  all drum brakes, even the type with alu/steel 
nsert combo and the car stopped beautifully.  No problem what so ever, not from 
peed, not in slow, never stuck, never pulling left or right, just perfect, very 
fficient also for modern traffic driving,  so,  did they learn all that much in
 
rake design in just about 10 years (57- 68)?  Normally and in most aspects a 
hrysler would be all superior to a GM but with brakes,, or is it just we that 
ave lost the knowledge about how to go about properly?


est regards
lf, Sweden
    


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