Re: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems

[paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

if you still have the screw in brake light switch in the master cylender, try giving that a semi hard rap with a wrench to see if thats whats sticking.


--
Paul Holmgren
2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hoosier Corps #L6
CPUs run on smoke. I know this
because when the smoke comes out,
it stops working. 
  -------------- Original message from "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: --------------


> went out and snooped some more.   They had gone out since yesterday and when 
> brake pedal hit they stayed on so must be sticking somewhere.  Don't relish 
> opening the affair up but---  Wonder if it will be the rod sticking in the 
> seal in the MC or something in the booster.  Neither seems likely actually 
> but will know more one of these days.  will check fit on the brake rod first 
> though just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tony Rinaldi" 
> To: "johnl" ; ; "Chrysler 300 Club" 
> ; "John Cotes" 
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 12:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems
> 
> 
> > To All,
> >
> > Silicone fluid good. Is not hygroscopic like regular brake fluid, 
> > therefore
> > better on collector cars which sit the majority of the time.
> >
> > Silicone brake fluid and the stop light switches prior to 1960 do not play
> > well together. Switches fail, only a matter of time.
> >
> > Fix:
> >
> > Install a 1961 or later mechanical brake pedal switch and rewire from
> > external switch, into the driver¹s compartment to the pedal switch.
> >
> > Tony Rinaldi
> > Been there, done that!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
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> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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