[Chrysler300] Notes from another venue re: Chrysler fuel sending/measuring system

["Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

These values correspond very closely to those measured on the sending unit
on my 1955 Chrysler C-300--with a 6-Volt system:  72 Ohms full, 10 Ohms
empty.  Now I'm wondering if that is some kind of industry or Chrysler
standard.  

Assuming the gas gauge is essentially an ammeter, the needle position will
vary with the float position and the system Voltage.  I think I see the
Voltage regulator kicking in and out as that causes or contributes to needle
blips.

Using the clamp part of a flaring tool to hold the tubing is a pretty smart
idea.  My tubing clamp has wing nuts that should enable placing a good
strong clamping force on the tubing, right next to the threaded connector.
A couple days of soaking with Kroil or Deep Creep on the stuck/corroded
tubing connection should also help.  Now if there is a secret to starting
the threaded connector without cross-threading the fitting, I'd love to hear
that. 

C-300'ly,

Rich Barber

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of JettLarry@xxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 5:35 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Notes from another venue re: Chrysler fuel
sending/measuring system

Street Rodder magazine gives the following report  concerning fuel gauge 
correctness.  It seems to answer several questions I  have about the
situation in 
my 66 300.  Will check it out soon. May an  expert critique  the following
for 
aptness of thought?  Remove  sender wire from the back of the fuel gauge and

attach the red wire from an  ohmmeter to it.  Attach the other wire from the

ohmmeter to  ground.  If the tank is empty, 73 ohms will show on the gauge, 
provided all  systems are GO as factory supplied.  If it is full, it will
show 10 
ohms  (believe the text said -10 ohms but surely you can't have minus 10 
ohms, can  you?)  Thus, if you know approximately how much fuel is in the
tank, 
you  will find some ohm-ness indicated between these two extremes that
should be 
 appropriate for the percentage of fullness or (emptyness if you are a  
pessimist)  
 
On another page......many of us have twisted off the flared fittings on  
brake, fuel, or transmission lines trying to remove them from  brake  
cylinder,carb/pump/tank/ or trans/radiator because they were stuck with
years of  gunk 
holding them together and the line just gave up first and twisted closed or

broken.  Their remedy?  Clamp on the tubing clamp from your flaring  kit
(that 
aluminum thing that you clamp in the vise to make new flarings) so the  pipe
can 
not turn as you apply pressure to the fittings with your special C  shaped 
wrenches that don't ruin fittings by slipping and destroying their  shape.  
Pretty smart sez I



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