Re: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D

[Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>]

If you don't intend on using a trailer much, why not have someone transport the car or rent a trailer from U-haul?   I think that's what I'd do if I didn't intend to haul very often. If you intend to use a trailer enough to justify the expense, then you really ought to buy one suited to the purpose. The added expense will be a lot less than the cost of removing skid marks from the roof of a 300D. 
   
  That said, regarding your potential purchase, it's really difficult to comment without seeing the trailer. My initial thought is the trailer doesn't sound like it's designed for a full size car. You might consider going to a few dealers to look at new trailers. Pick their brains, learn what to look for and stay away from in the design of a trailer. I think I'm somewhat qualified to give some input. 
   
  Since I bought my car trailer in '99, I have had quite a bit of experience towing everything from a Honda to a Suburban, 300J :-) to Imperials.  Personally, I would buy no less than an 18' trailer with # 7000 GVW. Brakes should be on all four wheels (a law in most states) and the axles should be a bit aft of center. This increases the weight on the tongue but also reduces any tendency to sway. A full steel deck is much more rigid than a partial steel or wooden deck.  The deck should also be as low as possible, again in the interest of sway control. A sure recipe for disaster is a heavy car sitting high on a trailer. By all means stay away from a trailer where the deck is above the tires. That places the center of gravity way too high for safety with a heavy car.  On my trailer, the driver's side fender is removable so that you can get out of the car once it's up on the trailer.
   
  Regarding the trailer you're considering,  I feel it is too short. 16' leaves a lot of room for overhang and with more weight aft, the trailer will sway more.  The fence all around might allow you to drive the car on, but what if you get a flat? Will the body hit the fence when it jounces up and down?  
   
  You probably have noticed, I put a heavy emphasis on sway control.  If your trailer sways a lot, you have to slow down (not a good thing for a 300 nut) and it is very tiring to drive. The biggest thing though isn't how it works going down I 95 at 60, it's how it works when you have an emergency and have to make an unexpected maneuver.  This past November while hauling a New Yorker back home from out west, I had two instances in traffic where I had to make emergency maneuvers. With the wrong rig in those circumstances, it's not hard to imagine looking up at your pants cuffs.
   
  Well, there's a bit more than .02 worth, but it is from my experience. 
   
  300ly
   
  Russ Vaughan
   
  PS: For John there are a few pictures of my trailer with '61's on it. 
   
   
  

John <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
          I am considering buying a used 16' x 6-1/2' car hauler to carry my 300-D home to Florida from South Carolina. I've picked this particular trailer because the price is right- I didn't want to spend $5,000 on a custom enclosed trailer I'll hardly use. The trailer has a 12 inch high fence on the front and sides, and none at the rear

>From the vast experience of the members of this listserver, am I going to be able to load a D on a trailer of those flatbed dimensions and a 12" high fence around the front & side perimeter? I know the overall width of a D is 79.6", but the front tire track is 61.2"

Importantly, the bumpers will NOT be on the car. I think this will affect both the maximum width and the amount of front overhang ahead of the front tires.

Thanks,
John Spiers

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