[Chrysler300] rusty versus non rusty 300C/D?

["christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Recently Ebay has seen some 'restoration project' 300C cars, plus there have 
been others listed that mentioned signs of floor replacement to non original 
quality.  And rust sure seems the worst enemy of 300Cs, and likely 300Ds?

Obviously unrusted cars were usually restored before ones that were worse, 
but the question I ask if anyone wishes to hazzard a rough reply is:

'if there are approx 20% of original production numbers that still survive, 
has anyone tried to figure/guess what percentage of these survived virtually 
rust free - ie still have original rockers, non rusted original floors, 
guard lowers and front tips etc.?'

I have played with cars for years, and tackling rust in 300C lower body is 
something that must be done right, and with today's MIG and TIG Welders, can 
be, but boy on recent offerings there are some cars out there that will 
cause real grief re fixing them so they are aqcceptably like factory in the 
metal, before paint hides untold errors/sins?

Chasing the rare chrome diecast, air cleaners, hubcaps, stainless side trim, 
etc ad nausem on most early 300s is costly enough, but I hate to guesstimate 
what a top sheetmetal/body shop would ask just to do the rust in a badly 
rusted 300C or D - and by 'do', I mean so it was like factory, virtually 
zero bog/bondo on any join/seam/weld.

Has anyone done a 'rust removal guide/traps' for either the 300C/D, or later 
unibody 300F/G, because someone sure should, or at least start one that 
others (Members) could add their two bobs worth of advice/warnings.
I had/have a mint rust free 1st 300C, and my 2nd was mostly untouched where 
it has rust (despite being a dry climate California dirt farmer's car) - so 
all one had to do was measure and duplicate.  My current/third car, boy has 
it been bodgied in places - alloy mesh, bondo, chicken wire, pop riveted 
pieces!! - but I have my two others to copy measure from, plus am using good 
original pieces from donor floors, and learned heaps from the one before, 
plus then kept all cut out bits for templates if ever needed.
Without this, any wonder I hear of some Member's huge sums wasted on 'well 
intentioned panel shops' that only make a mess and see desperate owners take 
their cars out unfinished and down the hole for sums over $10-20K with often 
only wrong work done. And this is before 'backyarders', amateurs, have a go 
- and boy are there some 300 traps/tricks waiting to trip you/them?!

Values for early 300s are apparently higher now - how about now the badly 
rusted and weathered cars are being saved, that some 'rust restorer's guide' 
is started, so we don't see more badly butchered cars that are worse than if 
just left until someone 'who knows and can' does what should be done to fix 
their rust?!

Enough of that - anyone game to volunteer what percentage are left that 
never needed rust repair to sills /floors/etc?  Or even, what % of those 
'now known as survived', are registered and able to be used, driven say 100 
miles and back?

Christopher in Oz




------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> 
Home is just a click away.? Make Yahoo! your home page now.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/DHchtC/3FxNAA/yQLSAA/8LmulB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~-> 

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/