[Chrysler300] Relay vs. Starter

[Rich Barber <barber@xxxxxxxxx>]

Matt:

Assuming the circuitry of your '62 is similar to my '55, the service 
manual suggests checking all cables and connections first.  Then check 
the control circuit (hot signal from the ignition switch) by jumpering 
BAT to IGN on the relay.  This simulates the ignition switch action.   I 
would then recommend checking the neutral safety switch circuit.  The 
relay in my 1955 C-300  includes a transmission-mounted pressure 
actuated neutral safety switch circuit that relies on a good contact to 
ground when the transmission is in neutral to make the relay work.  This 
terminal on the starter relay could easily be jumpered to ground to 
evaluate the effectiveness of the neutral switch and its circuit.   Then 
check the relay by connecting a heavy jumper (or jumper cable) BAT to 
SOL on the relay. If all this fails, it is either the solenoid on the 
starter or the starter itself--or connections thereto.  All old cables 
are suspect--even if they look good, there can be huge amounts of 
corrosion under the rubber leads.  Carefully feeling the cable ends may 
give you a clue as to what gets hot.

There are also ammeters capable of measuring starter current draw if and 
when you are able to get the starter to spin.

Best wishes and let us know what you find resolves the problem.  Maybe 
also what Granada America produces??

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 C-300


Matt Allyn wrote:

>How does one determine if the relay is going out on the inner fender well or if its the starter solenoid/motor?
>
>The symptom is a dead battery, though the battery tests good terminals are clean, charging system is charging. 
>
>This is all on our 1962 300 sport. 
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Allyn
>Exec. in Charge of Prod.
>Granada America
>323-785-2129 office
>323-785-2151 fax
>562-533-2551 cell
>
>
>  
>




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