Re: [Chrysler300] 300C Tailights worth? and your ebay comments

[Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

One last thing;
You can always file a fraud complaint with the U. S. Postmaster 
General.  The internet uses phone lines and/or the Mail system and 
falls under the Wire Fraud laws. Email questions both thru the "Ask a 
seller a question" and by direct email to him so you have a record sent 
by him of all his claims/descriptions.

The US Attorneys office is often helpful I'm told, also. This is all 
free to you and at the least will cause a hassle for the Bum who is 
cheating you.

Ray


On Sep 18, 2005, at 5:57 AM, christopher beilby wrote:

> Thank you to all those who offered their ebay buying experiences and
>  suggestions to avoid disappointments and ripoff merchants. Lower 
> down, I
>  detail a summary of this for those this might interest.
>
>  Now what I ask now, is roughly (as much as anyone knows/guesses) what 
> are
>  '57 300C tailights worth, and does anyone know the condition of a pair
>  supposed sold for around $500 on ebay apparently not so long ago -
>  likely/maybe 3-6 months ago?
>
>  Obviously the hardest good original chrome part of these tailights is 
> the
>  main body, it the hardest if pitted to rechrome, they having that 
> square
>  raised lip/edge running the full way round, just outside lens edges, 
> making
>  them a nightmare to grind near here, fill pits, never mind the other
>  nightmare chrome area inside this that runs to the lens edges!! - so 
> ones
>  with deep or considerable pitting are not worth much? Whereas what are
>  recent/usual prices paid over last 18 months - 2 years?
>
>  Now near 50 years after they were made, are there any still out there 
> that
>  whilst not mint, still look good from say 3 feet away, say have no 
> pitting,
>  and only very small ageing of the chrome? Any sold lately for how 
> much ?!
>
>  Second question re 300C tailights - what success/results with 
> rechromimg
>  them, and what can one be charged for a show/mint result if ones to be
>  re-chromed have only minor pitting, no real widespread deep pits, 
> heavy
>  raised edgeas round pits?
>
>
>  Now for a summary of Members' responses re buying on ebay:
>  1) a lot of Chrysler part sellers seemingly sometimes think the stuff 
> is
>  valuable, and that we will be glad to get it even if not as good as
>  expected/described. But there are also excellent/honest sellers out 
> there -
>  so the trick is sorting them out before bidding/buying.
>  2) buying from sellers that offer Paypal is thought safer. Suggestion 
> is
>  avoid sending money orders.
>  3) check sellers feedback comments received before bidding, and avoid 
> any
>  sellers with either negative feedback, or where comment about prompt
>  delivery or good packing is absent/missing if good packing is going 
> to be
>  important.
>  4) (always) avoid items where there is no picture.
>  5) generally avoid items where very short description, and/or only 
> one or
>  very few pictures.
>  6) query descriptions given if doubtful, and likely/especially if any 
> damage
>  seen or listed, and especially if a chrome/diecast item (obviously 
> this
>  applies to dearer items more so than 'few dollar' items)Â ( and ask 
> yourself
>  if all important sides of item were shown?!)
>  7) if item not as described when it arrives, contact seller (and 
> hope?!).Â
>  Then/when if seller not helpful, you can contact ebay (within certain 
> time
>  period)
>  8) ebay can be a source of parts hard to find any other way - you 
> take your
>  chances, hopefully win more deals than lose - however if you feel it 
> has got
>  to hard/bad, do not use ebay any more.
>
>  And I add a few of my own, not to say they are correct, but I have 
> found
>  worth doing/trying:
>  9) literature/original adverts/sales brochures/owners handbook - high 
> volume
>  sellers of this stuff are usually the safer people to deal with on 
> ebay.
>  10) if the item is rare and normally goes for more than it ended at, 
> be
>  careful of any high volume seller that has recent negative or neutral
>  feedback. If they wish to get out of sending item, they can send cheap
>  wrong/damaged part, then offer refund and then thereby keep the part 
> you won
>  and paid for.
>  11) Overseas buyers are better to pay Airmail shipping on all except 
> very
>  cheap items because in Australia's case, surface mail takes around 8 
> weeks
>  to get here - (i) this is near the limit of being able to leave 
> negative
>  feedback that shonky seller might act to avoid - and (ii) near limit 
> of
>  asking ebay/paypal for refund?
>  Therefore I do not bid on big cheap items, unless real cheap, and 
> only then
>  send it surface, if it no good, no big loss?! Otherwise on more 
> expensive
>  items, always bite the bullet and pay Airmail - that way you know if 
> about a
>  week if ripped off, can act more quickly.
>  12) returning shonky items - from Australia this is very expensive, 
> and how
>  do you get sellers to re-imburse shipping costs - this now for two 
> amounts!!
>  Â It seems better to avoid this option, as it is a 'lose lose' 
> outcome - ie
>  item may be one you would not have bid for because no good to put on 
> car,
>  plus you have paid maybe as much or more again for shipping?!
>  13) ebay offer little real fast simple help re lodging complaint - I 
> have
>  one claim going back to May where I still not knowing what ebay intend
>  doing?! (this point somewhat confirmed by some members' other ebay bad
>  experiences)
>  14) if it is expensive and you want it, ask for phone number, and try 
> and
>  talk to the seller before bidding - it may help you decide if seller 
> knows
>  what he is talking about, has listed. Also you may be able to decide 
> if a
>  good person to deal with, will be helpful after the sale, and does 
> not only
>  care about getting your money and nothing else.
>
>  thanks to all that replied - all members who have read this far make 
> up
>  their own minds, or contact me if anything further, or other 
> hints/tips.
>
>  christopher in Australia
>
>
>
>
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