Re: [Chrysler300] Carbs running too rich?

[Gary Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tom ,  John has a good idea.  I remember years ago I had a Imperial come 
in for a normal tune-up.  No problems with the car.  After I put in new 
points and condenser and other things.  I started the car up.  It idled 
nice.  But the first time I gave it any gas it would back fire kick back 
etc.   After a waste of time trying to figure  out what was wrong, I put 
the old condenser back in and the car ran great.  A lesson Learned.  A 
lot of old timers won't replace the old condenser if the points are 
burning ok.
    Gary Barker

cotejohnr@xxxxxxx wrote:

> Tom,
> Just a suggestion.  Change the condensor.  I was about to rip the 
> carburetor apart on my '56 NY with similar symptoms of backfire , 
> etc.  Changed only the condensor and ran like a charm.  The hour at 
> idle and heat may have tipped the condensor over the edge. Worth a try 
> for the 5 buck item.
> John Cote
> Guilford, CT.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: tdcox <tdcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; listserver 300 club 
> <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 15:34:58 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Carbs running too rich?
>
>    Tom  I would check your point settings before you start on the 
> carbs.  A
> dwell meter would give you a quick check.  Also check your cap & rotor
> for cracks.  Then check your timing including vacuum  advance to see if
> there working.
>
> Now the carbs.  did you get any new gas before the problem started?
> Water in the fuel will cause backfiring etc.
> The odds of both carbs having problems isn't usually going to happen.  I
> would disconnect the linkage to one side or the other .Now slowly
> increase the engine   to about 2500 RPM  . See how the engine runs. Now
> do the other side and see how it runs.  Hopefully you will be able to
> feel, smell or see a difference.  That should help you find which carb.
> is causing the problem.
> If you find one that is causing a problem you probably have to remove it
> and remove the top to check for a bad float, or dirt in the bottom or
> even dirt in the needle and seat.
>  Try this out in that order.   Please let me know what happens.   Good
> Luck  Gary Barker
>
> tdcox wrote:
>
>> I had a great time traveling to Pigeon Forge, TN (about 200 miles) to 
>
> the
>
>> "Shades of the Past Rod Run" show.  There were about 3,000 cars at the 
>
> show
>
>> itself and an estimated 10,000 cars on display and for sale along the 
>
> three
>
>> mile stretch of city.  Quite a spectacle.  The 300F was extremely well
>> received and I was told more than once that if it had been judged, it 
>
> would
>
>> have made the top 25 of all cars at the show.  Maybe so, maybe not.  
>
> But it
>
>> got more than it's share of ooh's and aah's.
>>
>> During the drive into the city on Friday night, I had a trip of about 
>
> an
>
>> hour at idle.  After that, the car never really ran well until I got 
>
> back on
>
>> the interstate to come home on Sunday.  It would stutter and pop and 
>
> acted
>
>> like it was running on six or seven cylinders.  It was also bad to 
>
> backfire
>
>> in the city and even on the trip home when I let off the gas.  I 
>
> assume that
>
>> the plugs were loading up due to rich-running carbs, but it sure ran 
>
> rough!!
>
>>
>> Today, when I took it for a brief drive to the shop, it wouldn't shift 
>
> out
>
>> of first gear for several hundred yards.  Any thoughts about this or 
>
> the
>
>> rough running?
>>
>> The only other odd occurence was that the heater core fractured on the 
>
> trip
>
>> to Pigeon Forge and it poored coolant onto the passenger floor.  I 
>
> rerouted
>
>> some hoses and took off down the road but didn't think that would 
>
> affect the
>
>> running of the engine.
>>
>> Thanks for your help and suggestions.
>>
>> Tom Cox
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>


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