[Chrysler300] Next step

[William Huff <whuff@xxxx>]

>>Phil,


This type of problem is usually due to a high resistance in the circuit or 
a bad starter motor. The resistance is the cheaper and easier to deal 
with. I would remove and check all battery leads to be sure they are clean 
and then tightly fastened. This means the positive battery lead on both 
the battery and the solenoid end, the lead going from the solenoid to the 
starter, both ends. The ground wire, battery end and engine block end. I 
would remove the ground wire from the engine block and clean the block 
surface and the terminal before re-tightening it. Look inside the wire 
side of the terminals for all battery, ground and solenoid leads to make 
sure that years of vibration haven't caused a significant number of strands 
to break. If there are any home made connections like those clamp on 
battery terminals, I would replace them or at least cut them off and redo 
the connection. If any of the wires are green inside, probably best to 
replace them as well.

A quick and dirty test of the solenoid is to use a jumper cable and jump 
from the battery positive to the starter side of the solenoid. This should 
not be done often, as it can really mess up the threads on the solenoid 
when the spark occurs, but it should spin the starter pretty well if the 
rest of the circuit is good. If it does, but the starter is slow using the 
key to turn it over, it might indicate a bad solenoid.

On the distributor. If you have a multimeter, you can disconnect the wire 
leading from the negative coil terminal to the distributor and check the 
reading with the multimeter while cranking the engine. The distributor 
lead should go to one of the multimeter leads and the other meter lead 
should make contact with ground on the engine block. The meter should be 
on the lowest Ohms setting. As the engine cranks, if the meter shows 
alternating 0 ohms and then infinity, chances are everything inside the 
distributor is good enough to at least start the engine. Make sure the 
lead is disconnected from the coil before you try this or you could damage 
the circuit on the meter. Using the same meter, make sure there is voltage 
going to the positive side of the coil when the key is in the run 
position. Make sure the voltage is still there while cranking, as it is a 
different circuit while cranking, that cuts out the ballast resister.

Hope this helps.

Bill Huff
>>Alright all,
>>I have tried everything to clean the rotor and the dual points(which
>>are new)
>>and still the car only cranks.Question the motor when it does crank, it
>>cranks
>>like it is under a strain, It has a Brand new battery (bought 2 days
>>ago) and
>>a good alternater, could it be the Starter,it is the original one?
>>Thanks to all,
>>Phil
>>
>>
>>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>>ADVERTISEMENT
>>
>>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>For list server instructions, go to 
>><http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm>http://www.chrysler300c 
>>lub.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>>
>>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>
>>
>>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the 
>><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]