Re: [Chrysler300] Battery Switches

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I don't know how many read my story about 6 months ago about watching my
neighbors garage burn to the ground with 4 really nice classic cars in
it do to a faulty ign. switch a friend gave him to try that day. He also
lost a lifetime collection of tools and parts.    Two of the cars
belonged to other people.  I now have battery shut-off switches on all
my cars except my wife's Concord.-

                    Gary Barker


As long as you know and accept the computer relearn scenario that is
necessary when some computer controlled autos loose electrical power, the
disconnect is not a bad idea for any car and especially those vehicles of
any technology level that sit for long periods.

What I have found is that devices like what is sold by JC Whitney for
battery disconnect switches under the brand name WirthCo, Inc are woefully
deficient. My experiences have been that switches of this type will not stay
on the job too long, will deteriorate mechanically and develope resistance
which will get in the way of keeping the battery fully charged and/or cause
slow engine cranking speeds.

The switches we have had good experiences with are marketed by Cole Hersee.
The 2484 switch is rated 1000 amps intermittent and 175 amps continuous
which is adequate for passenger car and most RV's. I hide the switches out
of harms way and in the chassis ground side of the electrical system. JC
Whitney shows similar looking devices and I have bought a number of switches
from NAPA. Battery ground cable gets relocated to the switch and a new
starter cable goes from the switch to the original chassis ground and unlike
the knife switch disconnects that don't work very long, a real disconnect
switch will require a mounting bracket or a hole in a panel or something
else in order to mount it properly.

Anything marginal in electrical supply connections (like loose or corroded
battery terminal connections) in a vehicle with a computer can cause all
sorts of ($) problems and with the older stuff put electrical spikes through
the system that can cause light and alternator damage. Disconnect switches
must not be turned off when the ignition key is on. HTH.

Just had the slow-crank/knife switch problem here yesterday and the
just-cleaned-battery problem here today. Problem is if the battery is
sparkling clean on top, the cable ends may well need to be taken off and the
posts and terminals cleaned carefully as there is (always) corrosion (high
resistance) hiding there.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ



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