Re: [Chrysler300] Steering Box on 59E !!!

[Gary Nelson <garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I was reading Warrens Post. Good advice. I was waiting to hear him say 
apply heat. When I got to the end he said "Heat? Please, no."

Warren. Not sure why you said that but, that is the first thing I would do 
before trying to remove it. Hammers? please no.

Heat applied to pitman arm is no different in my view than to drum hubs 
that was discussed a while back. We sure ran that one into the ground.

Heat applied to pitman arm at the shaft will transfer some to the shaft and 
bearing. The only item that would suffer is the seal. Tom stated he was 
removing to service. I assume he means rebuild it. The seals will be the 
first thing to replace.

My 2 cents, Gary

PS: I supply the complete rebuild kit for the cast iron steering box that 
starts in 58. Listed on club site under Classified, Parts for Sale.
Have fun rebuilding. They are a barrel of fun.

At 09:06 AM 09/08/2004 -0700, Warren Anderson wrote:



>Fellow Members Who Own A 59E:
>
>Need some advice: Gotta remove the steering box to have it serviced.  Is
>this
>difficult and how do I proceed?  If you can give me some assistance or even
>your telephone number if it is too lengthly to write about here, I would
>greatly appreciate it!  Thanks!
>
>Tom
>
>
>There is the coupling on the input shaft and the pitman arm on the output
>shaft. The hydraulic lines once loosened make a mess. Most probably the
>biggest problem will be the big nut securing the pitman arm to the output
>shaft of the gear box and the tight fit of the arm to the output shaft. This
>will require a large wrench to loosen the nut and a special puller or a
>large general purpose puller that will adapt. Unidirectional banging on the
>output shaft is not a good idea and how hard the separation is to accomplish
>will be related to how long the gear has been in the car and the general
>corrosion factor of  course. Getting to the gear/frame bolts with proper
>generally on-hand tools should be no problem excepting the possible
>corrosion factor. They are pretty good sized and they better be tight. As
>recently discussed in this forum and mentioned by others, the suggestion is
>to not use a 'pickle fork' to separate tie rod ends if the joint is to be
>reused and which operatrion might also be needed.
>
>Some coaxing will be necessary when releasing the pitman arm. Penetrating
>solution and two big hammers work the best. Use one hammer as a backup held
>tight against the arm at the split joint and diagonally opposite the one
>that is used to strike the arm at right angles to the centerline of the
>pitman shaft. Assuming luck is with you, a sharp knock with the puller in
>place, pulling strong and straight, the joint should separate - with the arm
>retaining nut loose but still in place to catch the loose parts. All this
>should be in the manual excepting the two hammer trick that properly done
>does no harm and does help release the tight joint. Heat? Please, no.
>
>Warren Anderson
>Sedona,AZ
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>





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