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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Replacement gas tank P/U sending unit for 300K
From: "McGuire, Dwight" <dmcguire@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. 331 hemi tran cooler
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Testing instrument cluster
From: "Charlie Valentine" <cross.ram@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Testing instrument cluster
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
5. instruments - repainting pointers
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: 300k brake valve
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
7. 1960 complete crossram setup wanted
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: 300k brake valve
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
9. 57 gaugan red???
From: Bill <bleahy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. 57 window rubber???
From: Bill <bleahy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. 70 Chrysler 300 Hurst Hemi?
From: "Steve Ham" <300L@xxxxxxxx>
12. Franklin Mint car show
From: "Charlie Valentine" <cross.ram@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Auto transport - GA/FL to NY
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
14. 1979 300
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Questions
From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 15:48:26 -0400
From: "McGuire, Dwight" <dmcguire@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Replacement gas tank P/U sending unit for 300K
Hello to All,
I understand someone posted a source for gas sending units about a week
ago. I was out of town & missed it. Please post it again as I need one
before I can procede to get my recently acquired Ram K Convertible
roadworthy again.
Thanks,
Dwight
-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 2:29 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 592
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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For list server instructions, go to
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Convertible Top
From: "Patrik Strub" <patrik.strub@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. Quarter Panel Bezel WANTED
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. [Fwd: size and spacing of 300k pin stripping]
From: Rinda Van Lennep <ednavan9@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: [Fwd: size and spacing of 300k pin stripping]
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: ram remote brake booster check valve
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. 300H heads
From: "Mark Souders" <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: ram remote brake booster check valve
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
8. Steel brake lines for '57 - '62
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. '63 300J Claret Dash Cluster Paint
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
10. Steel brake lines for ram cars - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 21:18:49 +0200
From: "Patrik Strub" <patrik.strub@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Convertible Top
Hello everybody!
I'm sorry this is not a "300ed question".
I`m looking for a new convertible top for my 1959 Plymouth Sport Fury
Convertible!!
Can somebody help me???
Thanks and Greetings from Switzerland
Patrik Strub
C
D
G conv.
62 conv.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:58:26 -0600
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Quarter Panel Bezel WANTED
Hello all....
Rounding up the very last pieces to send to the chrome shop and find that I
am missing one of my rear quarter panel bezels that surround the
red/white/blue medallion for my 300C. I thought Gary Goers was doing repros,
but he isn't at the present time...... Anyone have a spare... I don't care
if it needs rechroming, just in rechromable condition would work. If you
have one that doesn't need chroming, that is fine too.
Thanks
George
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 18:27:03 -0700
From: Rinda Van Lennep <ednavan9@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: size and spacing of 300k pin stripping]
I know someone has answered this question before but I have lost the
answer. What are the widths of the two pin stripes and the distance
between them for a 300k. I am referring to the stripping that runs the
length of the side an a little around the front and back.
Thanks
Van Lennep
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 19:58:59 -0600
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: size and spacing of 300k pin stripping]
Greetings Group!
I measured mine on my Roman Red hardtop prior to starting on the body
work three years ago, and saved it all this time, and I amazed myself that I
found where I wrote it down- Like Johnny Rivers said "wrote it on the wall"
next to my tool boxes! Wide stripe is 1/4", spaced by 1/8", small stripe is
1/8". I have another K out back that has been repainted years ago and it has
2 1/8" stripes. I also have a fender and door off a K hardtop, no evidence
of repaint on either and they have the same as our Roman Red (Kelly's K)
hardtop- 1/4"x 1/8"x1/8". Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+others...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rinda Van Lennep" <ednavan9@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 7:27 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] [Fwd: size and spacing of 300k pin stripping]
> I know someone has answered this question before but I have lost the
> answer. What are the widths of the two pin stripes and the distance
> between them for a 300k. I am referring to the stripping that runs the
> length of the side an a little around the front and back.
>
> Thanks
>
> Van Lennep
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 21:25:01 -0600
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ram remote brake booster check valve
Same here- being I live in "farm country" also I can check different Case
International dealers in this area and Wyoming when I get down that way, A
picture and description would be a great help to show the parts people so
they might be able to walk over to a bin and pick one up......Joe Pierce
Joliet, Montana 300J+Kx3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marshall R Larson" <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2003 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] ram remote brake booster check valve
> If someone will send a picture and specs. to me I will look for them at
> my local Case-International Dealer.
>
> Marshall
>
> On Sun, 6 Apr 2003 09:11:10 -0400 (EDT) <Mr300K@xxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> > > well, i think the description pretty much sums it up. can someone
> > help
> > > please. on my 64 ram K, i am in need of the one way vacuum check
> > valve
> > > for the remote booster. the valve sits atop the driver ram, on
> > vacuum
> > > fitting and runs to the booster. mine is old, brittle, and been
> > epoxied
> > > a couple times to provent leaks, but it keeps coming undone from
> > the
> > > heat, does anyone know of a part number from kragen, napa,
> > dealer,
> > > anyone like that thats not out of state and wants 30 bucks for
> > one. i
> > > tries to match it up a few months ago, but nothing close enough
> > to
> > > work. thanks you all, tim
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > For list server instructions, go to
> > > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > Hey Tim and all,
> >
> > The check valve in the vacuum line going to the remote booster on
> > the J
> > and Ram K's have been very difficult to find. An old club member
> > said he
> > found an exact duplicate to the ours at an International dealership.
> > If
> > some one of you who lives in farm country can resource this I'm sure
> > the
> > members who need this would be greatly appreciative. I've been
> > looking for
> > many years and yet to find one. Good luck if you find one.
> > 300kly,
> > Don Cole
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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> >
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 11:57:29 -0000
From: "Mark Souders" <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H heads
Hi gang,
My resto was going well until Saturday when I started the engine for
the first time since its rebuild. When I put water in the radiator
before starting it, I noticed a few drops of water dripping from the
joint in the exhaust pipe. Didn't think too much of it until I fired
up the engine and a lot of water and steam came out the tailpipe.
The good news is the engine ran, the bad news is the left head is
cracked. The engine builder told the guy I bought the car from that
he magnafluxed the block and heads, apparently not.
I'm looking in Govier's Casting Numbers booklet and there are two
different casting numbers listed but they both have the same part
number. There is also a separate listing for the 300H, but the
casting number and part number is the same as the line above it.
What is the difference, if any, between the casting numbers? One
little oddity is that the casting number on the head looks like
2208324, but the number in the book is 2206324. This head is from a
62 Imperial. The book says the casting for the 300H should be
2206924.
Now I need to track down a good head to replace the broken one. I
guess the car won't be ready for the May shows.
Another thing I noticed is on the Felpro head gasket. There are two
small water return holes in the block and head that are not in the
gasket. Is this normal? should I punch holes in the gasket to allow
the water to flow?
Your help would be appreciated,
Mark Souders
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 12:02:37 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: ram remote brake booster check valve
What does this check valve do?
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 09:50:23 -0700
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Steel brake lines for '57 - '62
I am having some new steel brake lines made for my 300F and would like to
see if other club members need new steel or stainless steel lines for their
precious investment. Not looking to make money, just reduce costs. If
interested, please contact me privately.
Louis M. Barrie
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 13:04:47 EDT
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
Subject: '63 300J Claret Dash Cluster Paint
Hi All,
I finally found a source for the dash cluster paint
(Claret Interior) for the '63 300J and sport series.
Paint Code 71280 is called "Burgundy Red Poly"
and is a semi-gloss.
I had to buy one pint of paint and they filled (3)
16 oz. aerosol cans with paint.
If anyone needs a can, contact me privately.
Thanks-
Mark Lindahl
'63 300 Conv.
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:20:52 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Steel brake lines for ram cars - reply
Hi Louis,
Repro steel lines are currently available from either Fine Lines, or Inline
Tube - I forget which, I think the latter. This includes the
master-to-distribution block line, which is correctly made with the extra
"thickness" at bottom, and it's the correct shape for ram cars.
I prefer to make my own lines, there's really not much to it, the only one
that I have found useful to purchase is the aforementionned
master-to-distribution block as it cannot be easily duplicated. Inline Tube
also remanufactures the correct ram car fuel lines.
The last remaining brake line to redo is the long front-to-rear line. That
can be accomplished by purchasing a 25' roll of coiled armor shielding
directly from your Chrysler dealer, and buying a roll of 3/16th steel line,
and slipping one over the other, and bending to shape. The fact that the
armor is over the steel line actually makes it easy to bend and reduces any
possibility of kinking.
Hope this helps.
John
--- Original Message -----
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Club International, Inc." <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Steel brake lines for '57 - '62
> I am having some new steel brake lines made for my 300F and would like to
> see if other club members need new steel or stainless steel lines for
their
> precious investment. Not looking to make money, just reduce costs. If
> interested, please contact me privately.
> Louis M. Barrie
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
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>
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>
>
>
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:33:04 -0700
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 331 hemi tran cooler
The 331 Hemi in the car I just purchased has a transmission cooler that has been bypassed to a hang on cooler in front of the radiator. I'm assuming that he original cooler started to leak like they always did. Anyway, the question is if I take the original cooler off the block, does someone make an adaptor to bolt back on to connect the bottom radiator hose to?
Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 17:30:26 -0700
From: "Charlie Valentine" <cross.ram@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Testing instrument cluster
Does anyone know if you can bench test the speedometer and instrument cluster before you put it in the car? I replaced the cluster in my 62. I turned on the lights only to find out that the speedometer needle does not light up. Now I have to take it apart again. I have 2 other clusters to try but I would sure like to know if they work before I disassemble and replace with another bad one.
Does anyone know if the paint on the needles is a SPECIAL paint? I have a couple of gauges that work fine but the needles are faded and need to be freshened up. I know there are gauge restorers out there but is the paint they use a special and secret formula?
Thank you in advance for any help and have a terrific day.
Charlie Valentine
300G, 62 300 Convertible
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 17:52:40 EDT
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Testing instrument cluster
Ship the rascal to Jeff Carter in Seattle. It will come back shiny, painted,
and all glowy in the dark. Good Man!
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 18:22:48 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: instruments - repainting pointers
Charlie,
First, I agree with Larry that Jeff Carter's the Man as far as instrument
repair and restoration. www.jcauto.com ; definitely the way to go if you
want it done once and done right !
I have attempted to repair / restore some of my gauges in the past with
mixed success. Have you made sure that the feed wire for the speedo needle
is indeed plugged in to the electroluminescent lighting? going from memory
only, it plugs in to the oil pressure gauge..
The astradome is, to me, one of the most important features of the 60 thru
62 Chryslers, and should be properly restored, so that all pointers do light
up, and all look the same color as well ! I always restore (or have Jeff
restore...) ALL the pointers and repaint all of them (including radio and
clock) so that they appear to match each other. It matters to me.
If you indeed prefer to restore your own, yes, it can be done, but will take
a certain amount of experimenting - and time and effort ! Here's a VERY
quick outline on how to proceed :
1/ Set up a 12 volt power supply (car battery, or regulated 12V supply such
as used for powering up CB radios or car radios) on a worktable, and in an
area where you can create darkness easily. I set up such a workbench in my
basement.
2/ You will also need an electroluminescent power supply, such as the one on
your car. Nice to have a spare working unit. Also need a set of jumper
wires (Radio Shack)
3/ Connect ground to power supply AND to body of gauge to be tested.
Connect 12V + to orange wire of power supply. Connect jumper wire between
white wire of power supply, and appropriate lighting terminal on gauge .
Power up the supply, the gauge should now light up. Turn off the lights,
observe the results.
4/ Power off lighting. Using fingernail or razor blade / Exacto knife,
scrape off all orange paint remaining on pointer. Careful not to damage the
movement !
5/ Apply new paint using small brush, Q-tip, or matchstick - whatever works
for you. Then turn off lights again and power on to observe results.
Depending on paint used and how well applied, you might need to put on a
second coat or touch up "white spots" remaining.
Paint: I am sure everyone has their secret formula. You need transluscent
paint. I had experimented with various shades of fingernail polish until I
came up with the proper "orange-red" hue. Wasn't happy with the ease of use,
etc. - then, Don Verity told me about Plasticote fluorescent paint, comes in
spray cans. I don't have the Plasticote number handy, it's something like
FM-2, but that is an approximation - guess. It's Fluorescent Orange or some
such. Spray some paint into a cup, so that you have some liquid to work
with. Apply it to the pointer(s). Observe the results when powered up.
Hope this helps.
John
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 23:10:41 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 300k brake valve
In a message dated 4/8/2003 10:18:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
greektruck@xxxxxxx writes:
> thank you all for the help. i will put up a picture of the pain booster
> valve, and the hose end sizes. thank you all much.
> ps, sorry to the person i sent this to personally, i didnt read the email
> address.
> tim
>
What does this check valve check? I'm having trouble with my ram K brakes.
I drive it with the vacuum line to the booster plugged, because with the
booster working, the brakes grab with the slightest pedal pressure.
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 08:40:58 -0400
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1960 complete crossram setup wanted
OK folks, how's this for a near impossible request....
I'm looking for a complete crossram setup to convert a 1960 Plymouth Fury
from a single 4 barrel car to the mighty longrams. Need absolutely
everything from the rams to the air cleaners, linkages - and so on.
I am presuming that the interchange for nearly all the parts would be all 60
and 61 Mopar. Am I right ?
btw, I am very well aware of what a difficult and expensive search this is
likely to be.
Sean.
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 10:22:11 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 300k brake valve
In a message dated 4/10/2003 1:26:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
longrams@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> George;
> Did you replace the master cyl? If you installed a rebuilt/new master,
> they come with a residual valve in the bottom of the cyl. bore. This valve
> MUST be removed. Why?....the remote has a residual valve and with the one
> in
> the cyl, hyd. fluid cannot return to the resivore. Fluid pressure builds up
> untill the brakes lock and the only way to unlock is to bleed off one wheel
> cyl. I learned the hard way on my J years ago.
> George Riehl
Hi, George,
Yes, I did have the master and the booster rebuilt together at Karp's. I
believe the guy said he put the residual valve in the master instead of the
booster, even though Chrysler says to do it the opposite way. The problem is
not the same as yours was, though. The brakes don't remain locked. It seems
that the booster is providing way too much boost. Light pedal pressure will
screech the tires (all 4). With the booster diconnected, the brakes work as
any non-power brakes would work. Could there be something wrong inside the
booster?
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:15:35 -0700
From: Bill <bleahy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57 gaugan red???
this is bill of bill's basket case in kennewick washington.
my car is suppose to be gaugan red color.
and i was going to go for it...until my guy who is working on the body
showed me a open quart of the red color (and i got the code from this
group)...anyway it was a long long long way from red...it was near coral (is
that right?).
now i've seen idaho georges car on his website and it looks a pretty
red...not coral.
so before i jump ship and paint my 57 white, someone clue me in a little
more.
but just in case does someone have the color mix code for cloud white or
whatever the name is?
bill
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:17:36 -0700
From: Bill <bleahy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57 window rubber???
this is bill of bill's basket case in kennewick washington....again.
my car is a 57 coupe...and the rubber where the side windows roll up into is
not too good....actually it's bad.
is this rubber available?
thanks
bill
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:09:52 -0400
From: "Steve Ham" <300L@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 70 Chrysler 300 Hurst Hemi?
Does anyone know the story on the 70 Chrysler 300 Hurst Hemi motor $35,000 in the most recent issue of Mopar Collectors Guide? Page 72 May 2003 issue about ten lines from the bottom.
Steve Ham 300L
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:25:17 -0700
From: "Charlie Valentine" <cross.ram@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Franklin Mint car show
The 17th Annual Franklin Mint Car Show will be held on Sunday, Sept 28. My registration form is in the mail. If anyone will be in the Philadelphia area on that day please see the show. It would be nice to have some other 300's in the show. To be in the show you must be pre-registered. I have never been there but it sounds like a great show.
This is the info on their flyer.
Here's what you can expect when you join us:
There will be a FREE continental breakfast waiting for you!
Who said there's no such thing as a FREE lunch? We'll have a noon meal ready for you, too!
A customized Dash Plaque will also be provided FREE, attesting to your participation in this highly anticipated event.
Your choice of a FREE die-cast car from a selected group.
All that and FREE registration!
Exhibitors are accepted on a first come, first served basis. All cars will be considered. You may enter as many cars as you wish. (1987 is the latest model that will be accepted) You must have written confirmation from the Franklin Mint to exhibit.
This is Charlie speaking again. It almost sounds too good to be true. I also believe (pretty sure) that they do not charge spectators. Has anyone ever been there?
Spectator attendance last year was 37,000.
If you think that you might want to be part of this show see the contact info below.
Do it early(NOW) and get your registration form in early(NOW).
Please direct any inquires to:
Cathy LaSpada
610-459-7975
claspada@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I hope to see some of you there. Happy 300ing!
Charlie Valentine
300G, 62 300 Sport Convertible
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:23:10 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auto transport - GA/FL to NY
Hello & happy Friday. Thought I'd check to see if anyone was planning car transport from the GA/FL area to the Northeast anytime soon? The Syracuse area would be swell. Open / enclosed. I've calls in to various carriers - but thought I'd ask if someone may already have something in the works.
Many thanks & happy Spring. Mike V
p.s.. the "Way Down Yonder on the Chattahoochie Rod Run" is this weekend in Whitesburg, GA....just in case you're in town!
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:29:25 -0700
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1979 300
Looking for 1979 300 hub caps. Can anyone describe them for me, or email a
picture? What size is the wheel, 14" or 15 " ? I don't have any and can't
seem to find a picture of them. Thanks Chuck
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 14:09:28 EDT
From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
Subject: Questions
Hey, you transmission weenies out there, I've got a question. The
transmission on my D convertible leaks, nearly a cup a week just sitting in
the garage, until the fluid level gets about a quart and a half low. I'm
getting tired of the mess on the floor, so I'm gonna have it fixed. Now the
question: can the transmission be removed from the car without removing the
engine? Remember, this is a convertible, so it has the massive X-frame
addition to the normal ladder frame. And since I've got your attention, what
lubricant should I use in the D's real axle, given that it is a limited slip
unit? Thanks for whatever help I can get. McTaggart
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