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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: 300C springs and body rake
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. 300C Springs and Vent Frames
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Fwd: Do guages care?
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: 300F gauges won't work - what should I do?
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Cars on Film
From: legbrkar@xxxxxxx
6. Hollywood 300's
From: "L.Andrew Jugle <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
7. 300's in Films
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
8. ignition question
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: ignition question
From: "Moana & Gerry Steinberg" <mopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. C300 Guages Part 2
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Fwd: ignition question
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. 300 J for parts
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: C300 Guages Part 2
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: ignition question
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: C300 Guages Part 2
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. 56 Gauge
From: "BobMerritt" <rcmerritt@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:44:25 -0600
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300C springs and body rake
Hi Rob,
I purchased the Eaton springs through the club for my 300F, and was very
pleased with the quality - apparently they were fairly easy to install, and
together with new shocks they make a big difference in the stance of the
car. When you order through the club they should be able to tell you which
leaf springs to get.
Alex Krikhaar
300F
-----Original Message-----
From: mjkern@xxxxxxxx [mailto:mjkern@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 8:41 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300C springs and body rake
Hello!
I just aquired a 300C and it has a reverse rake stance. I am
going to have the torsion bars adjusted to lower the front end to
hopefully make the pitch look even. My concern is that if this doesen't
rectify the situation, does anyone recommend purchasing the new Eaton
springs package through the club to replace the rear springs? How many
leaves should the rear springs on the 300C possess? I count 6 on mine.
Thoughts and recommendations will be seriously considered and welcomed.
Thanks. Rob Kern
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 11:41:12 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Springs and Vent Frames
The 300C Handbook which Rob has in hand has dimensions for proper front end height on the first page of the "Technical Talk" chapter. Not a criticism to you, Rob, there is a LOT to digest in the Handbook. And somewhere in the Book (I can't even find it right now) I believe it says that the C springs are supposed to have 7 leaves, not 6.
While I have no personal problems with re-arching of leaf springs as recently discussed on this list, when it is properly done cold by a competent, long time spring shop, I do feel that considering the labor involved in taking the springs in and out, that if the additional cost of new replacement Eaton springs is not an obstacle, that in the long term this is the better option for the car and the owner. And at the price break George Riehl has gotten for the club on these new springs they are indeed a bargain.
The '57 windshield has the reverse "kick" in its upper outer corners because of the '57-only roof trim "eyebrow". Because of this, the vent window frame assembly for the '57 hardtops (both 2dr and 4dr) is unique to this year, however it is shared with other '57 Mopar hardtops. The '57 convertible windshield does NOT have the eyebrow, therefore the vent window frame is shared with '58 and '59 hardtops AND convertibles.
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 15:03:44 -0500
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fwd: Do guages care?
Frank,
Under no circumstances would I try to put a full 12 volts to the
gauges. 12 volt MOPARS use a voltage regulator that provides a pulsed
voltage to the instruments. The effect is to have a lower mean voltage, 12
volts will fry them in short order, plus they will be inaccurate since they
are not calibrated for that voltage.
Having a car rewired from 6 to 12 volts does not always mean the wiring
itself was disturbed, since some sort of voltage divider might have been
used to provide a lower voltage feed to the instruments. The starter
doesn't really care that much, and the generator would have to be rewound
or replaced along with the voltage regulator. The light bulbs, for the
most part would just be replaced with their 12 volt equivalent. I don't
know about power window or seat motors, but I suspect that since they are
low duty cycle, they would work just fine, only a little faster.
Sounds to me like you might have a problem that is not related to the
actual conversion. first thing I would do is crawl under the dash and try
to ascertain if the factory wiring is basically intact. If it is, wait for
the manual to try and troubleshoot. Since the gauges usually work by
measuring amperage (micro-amps) through a variable resistance (the gas tank
sender or the temperature sender) to ground, if they work at all, I would
suspect the problem to be in the voltage feed to the instrument panel
rather than a ground. The only ground in most instrument circuits should
be where the sender is grounded. There are exceptions, but that is the
norm. I would try to find a common feed for the instruments, the map light
and the overhead lights. Not an easy task, the ability to read a schematic
diagram would be very helpful.
You might be surprised what you find. I know in the late '60s MOPARS, if
you turned on the wipers, the emergency flashers, pushed the turn signal to
one side or the other and turned on the radio, everything started working,
pulsing in time with the emergency flashers. This with the key off and in
my pocket. The voltage was back feeding through the turn signals and
powering the accessory bus every time the flashers turned on. You may have
a similar situation here, where the instruments receive a voltage feed only
under certain conditions. Sorry for rambling, but please don't connect 12
volts direct to the instruments, whatever you do.
300ly,
Bill Huff
>>I'm trying to figure out my weird gauge problem. My c300 was rewired to 12
>>volts. The gas and temp gauges only work if the door is closed (interior
>>lights off) and the map light is on. Open either door and the gauges go
>>dead. Everyone I've talked to says its a ground problem. To make a long
>>story short, I'm thinking of taking the "gauge power" wire and going right
>>to the ignition switch, rather than trying to figure out the rats nest of
>>wires. Do the gas and temp gauges care if its 12 volts? I have no idea at
>>this point if they are getting 12 volts when they do work. I still do not
>>have a manual (one is coming) but it may not be that helpful since the car
>>is re-wired.
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 14:20:41 -0600
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300F gauges won't work - what should I do?
Seeing Bill's excellent reply to Frank regarding his c300 instrument panel
encouraged me to throw my 300F instrument panel question in.
My astrodome panel lights up alright, but since I got it back from my
mechanic the gauges no longer work. No reading on the speedometer either.
Does anyone know what would be the correct order of things to check before I
crawl under the dash? I'd rather do this myself than having my mechanic
possibly make things worse...
300'ly
Alex Krikhaar
300F
-----Original Message-----
From: William Huff [mailto:whuff@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 2:04 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fwd: [Chrysler300] Do guages care?
Frank,
Under no circumstances would I try to put a full 12 volts to the
gauges. 12 volt MOPARS use a voltage regulator that provides a pulsed
voltage to the instruments. The effect is to have a lower mean voltage, 12
volts will fry them in short order, plus they will be inaccurate since they
are not calibrated for that voltage.
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 16:55:58 EST
From: legbrkar@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cars on Film
I remember the show well, they used my 1957 plymouth savoy 4dr hardtop .You
can see it just going through an intersection at lake and halsted. The
episode is the one that has pam grier talking to some hooker in a bar, then
pam get's beat in an alley by some thugs.....oh well just some memories of my
youth...see ya later bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 00:42:36 -0000
From: "L.Andrew Jugle <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hollywood 300's
I own 3N572063, the "Crime Story" 300C. They thought they were gonna
find them all over the place!! At one time it was to be blown up (I
sold it to them with right of first refusal...which they wer gonna
ignore---but that is an old story) and I lined up a hulk to explode,
but by that time they were so in the hole they wisened up. They had
a 60 Plymouth Golden Commando, too. But only used a liitle.
"Imitation of Life" used Lana Turner's own 300D.
"Macabre" used Producer/Director William Castle's own 300C.
My other 300C convert (3N572972) was an MGM studio car, assigned to
VIPs to traverse studio lots. (Was told assigned to Monroe) It
appeared in several TV shows, probably the "Make Room For Daddy". One
I'm looking for is a show called "Air Force" where they use car at
140 MPH to rescue a parachutist from the tail of a flying plane!. It
appears for 3 frames in background of a scene in "The Misfits".
Perry Mason is "Case of the Married Moonlighter" and is a D convert.
"World, Flesh,..." is a tan 300D. Was EAST Coast and never been able
to trace.
Several of the Rat-Pack used their Dual-Ghias in films. Most notably
Dean Martin in "Kiss Me, Stupid" and Peter Lawford in TV show version
of "The Thin Man".
"Cry Terror" was reportedly a 300C, but was a '57 New Yorker convert.
Spent 10 years looking for a print---was disappointed when found it.
I have 16MM prints of most of these films. Somewhere I wrote down the
whole list...and right now can't find LIST!
L. Andrew Jugle, Elmhurst,IL
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 20:14:25 EST
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
Subject: 300's in Films
Our '56 300B was in the movie Peggy Sue Gets Married. It was in one scene and
they moved the car during the retakes. The camera goes by the car and then
goes by the car again. I told about this a month or so ago. Karen and I met
Kathleen Turner, she is petite and very nice, not what I have seen of some
hollywood moguls. Quentin Smith
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 01:26:18 -0000
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ignition question
I want to change my 440 to electric ignition and the ? is
I have found a new mopar ignition kit for sale but
it's for a 1970 440 and I have a 1969 440. Will that make
that much difference??
Chris
69 300
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 19:31:35 -0700
From: "Moana & Gerry Steinberg" <mopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ignition question
Hi Chris: No difference at all. If it's for a 440 the year doesn't matter.
It's the same distributor, module, wiring harness and ballast
resistor. Go to it and happy motoring, you can forget about
points. I have it in my '68 Imperial, '61 Newport wagon with a '68
440 and even the distributor on my 'F' has been converted to
electronic.
Good luck.
Gerry Steinberg
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 6:26 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] ignition question
> I want to change my 440 to electric ignition and the ? is
> I have found a new mopar ignition kit for sale but
> it's for a 1970 440 and I have a 1969 440. Will that make
> that much difference??
> Chris
> 69 300
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 18:58:01 -0800
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C300 Guages Part 2
I decided that the entire wiring mess has to go. "Painless" makes an 18
circuit harness that I can install. As for the gauges, how about getting a
'56 12 volt set (fuel, sender and temp). You gotta see this mess to
understand how frustrated I am. So, a new harness, I do the work, and use
'56 gauges. Sound like a plan?
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 22:47:25 -0800
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fwd: ignition question
Chris,
I believe in 1970 was when the first electronic ignitions were placed on
the big blocks by the factory, so if it is a replacement kit, then it
wouldn't be listed for 1969. MOPAR performance does sell retrofit
kits. At any rate, I have converted several 440s to electronic ignition
starting with a '67 and up to a 1970, so far as I can determine, there is
no difference between them.
Bill Huff
>>I want to change my 440 to electric ignition and the ? is
>>I have found a new mopar ignition kit for sale but
>>it's for a 1970 440 and I have a 1969 440. Will that make
>>that much difference??
>>Chris
>>69 300
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 22:35:25 -0700
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 J for parts
Hello Group-
I bought a 63 J yesterday and I am parting it out. No engine(original 413 gone) parts but almost everything else. Reply privately to me if interested in parts or the body.
Also A K hardtop complete running for sale as well. Thanks, Joe Pierce 300Kx3+J + others
And yes I sent Gloria the VIN numbers.....
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 19:39:55 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C300 Guages Part 2
I would talk to Greg Leggatt about a wiring harness, he advertises in the
Club News and has a listing on the Club website. He doesn't list a '56 but
he may be able to help you out.
I recently helped a friend fit a Painless harness to his '67 Camaro, easy
enough to fit, but some strange circuitry, for instance, it had power on the
reverse light & blower fan circuit all the time, ignition key in or out. The
harness was all hard wired into the large aftermarket blade-type fuse box so
you can't change things around either. That was the hardest part, fitting
that large darn fusebox under the dash! If you want original, or close to
it, these aren't the way to go in my opinion.
Just my 2c worth
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Bakanau <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 3:58 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] C300 Guages Part 2
> I decided that the entire wiring mess has to go. "Painless" makes an 18
> circuit harness that I can install. As for the gauges, how about getting
a
> '56 12 volt set (fuel, sender and temp). You gotta see this mess to
> understand how frustrated I am. So, a new harness, I do the work, and use
> '56 gauges. Sound like a plan?
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 22:02:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ignition question
If it's for a 1970 it should fit any RB engine, but when Chrysler started building Electronic-Lean-Burn engines later in the 1970s they built a completely different distributer which should not be used. Instead of spring-loaded weights under the breakerplate to provide mechanical spark advance as RPMs increase, it has 2 pickups in the distributor that are staggered a few degrees and the leanburn computer senses engine needs and varies the spark advance by switching between them. The way to tell is just remove the distributor cap and if it has 2 pickups instead of 1, don't use it. The only to make it work is with the wiring and computer on the air cleaner, and even then it won't run as good as either your point system or the regular electronic ignition.
Okie Bob
"my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: I want to change my 440 to electric ignition and the ? is
I have found a new mopar ignition kit for sale but
it's for a 1970 440 and I have a 1969 440. Will that make
that much difference??
Chris
69 300
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 09:18:12 -0500
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C300 Guages Part 2
Frank,
For the instruments, NAPA carries a regulator that's intended for earlier
12v Ford stuff, but I've used it successfully for my Hudson 12v conversions.
The 6v '48-54 Hudsons ran the gauges on about 5v pulsed power supply. This
NAPA unit (NAPA/Echlin IR-2), supplies that voltage, with anywhere from 6 to
18v input. It's cheap ... you may want to try one.
Park Waldrop
C cpe - Atlanta
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 11:54:11 -0500
From: "BobMerritt" <rcmerritt@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 56 Gauge
Regarding the voltage to the dash gauges in 56, I think they got the full
12V. I don't see anything in the service manual to say any different, and I
don't see any mention of a voltage limiter. The wiring diagrams also show
full battery voltage going to the gauges.
I checked the 57 and 58 service manuals, also no voltage limiter. I couldn't
locate the 59 manual, and I did find the voltage limiter in the 60 service
manual.
So I could be wrong; I haven't been right yet today, but I think 56 -58
gauges received full battery voltage. Maybe also 59, can't tell until I find
the manual.
I tried to ask our resident expert Greg d'Leggatt but he sleeps late when it
is cold. At the present temperature where Greg lives in Canada , he isn't
expected out of bed until Tuesday.
Bob Merritt
(I hear it doesn't snow in Spain).
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