------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Looking for a more powerful website? Try GeoCities for $8.95 per month. Register your domain name (http://your-name.com). More storage! No ads! http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info http://us.click.yahoo.com/aHOo4D/KJoEAA/MVfIAA/8LmulB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 4 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Intake Manifold From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. over heaating problem on 392 From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx> 3. registry updated From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: radiator caps From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 12:34:28 -0700 From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Intake Manifold I'm looking for a factory 2x4 intake manifold for a 1956 354 cu. in. Hemi. Thanks Gary Barker ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 15:00:16 -0700 From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: over heaating problem on 392 Thanks to all for your ideas. After replacing the thermostat with a heavy duty one, replacing the old radiator cap, the bottom hose(replaced a molded with a flex hose) to get more stability under pressure, It appears that the problem has been solved. Once again I learn that you never, never, never put old stuff back in. Just replace it and save yourself the time of re-doing it. Zak [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 19:51:29 -0400 From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: registry updated Hi to all , As a result of diligent sleuthing efforts by the membership, new VIN numbers have come to light and been added to our registry. Many thanks to Eleanor Riehl and Gloria Moon who maintain this registry with diligence and care. I am happy to report that TWENTY-THREE "new" Letter cars and FIVE more Hursts have been accounted for since last tally April 15th ! The current registry figures may be viewed on-line at http://www.chrysler300club.com/registry/registry1.html Yes, eBay has been a good source of new VIN's - but not the only one. We do depend on our members to provide the Club with VIN numbers that can be checked and added to the list.... so keep 'em coming, everytime you stumble upon a 300 Letter Car or a Hurst ! See Y'all In September .. in Nashville ! 300'ly John ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 00:06:46 -0400 From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: radiator caps Alas, it seems we have another wee disagreement among friends... If I am not mistaken, higher pressure also impedes the flow volume of coolant. If your car was filled with nothing but tap water like in the old days, boiling would indeed be the primary fear. But with modern coolant mixtures, it is not. Getting the maximum amount of coolant into and out of the engine is what you're really after when idling in 100 degree heat with the AC blasting. This is exactly why your car has an idle speed up system for when temperatures approach dangerous levels. Pressure (which remains fairly constant) is not what gets your engine temperature back down to safe levels. This is accomplished by increased rpms in the water pump churning a greater volume of coolant through the system. My opinion is that changing - say - a 12 pound cap to a 9 pound cap increases flow. I got this advice from an old timer who runs an auto repair shop called - aptly enough - "John's Radiator." He had recharged my Cadillac with Freon and built me a new radiator. WHen I started having frequent heat problems, he gave me the lower pressure cap. While my 276 Hemi that was recently rebuilt for the 300 is problem free in the overheating category (no carbon blocking coolant passages, new water pump, no AC on the car), my 200,000 mile plus 472 V8 Caddy has benefitted from me lowering the pressure on the cap. I've also heard this "trick" from others in the industry. Having a "puke tank" is a must for this to work of course, as it will be utilized more with a lower pressure cap. But that is what it is for, after all.. It keeps the lower pressure fairly constant and maintains the better flow - then takes the overflow coolant back into the system as the temperature cools. Sean. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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