[Chrysler300] Digest Number 372
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 372



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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Engine Paint
           From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
      2. RE: HELP!
           From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Murray Park
           From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Murray Park
           From: "bevacqua" <tonysru2@xxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Engine Paint
           From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. 300K
           From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Engine Paint
           From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 10:32:03 EDT
   From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Engine Paint

Some time ago, someone asked about the correct color of engine paint for
1962 
and up.  Plasticote Chrysler green and POR15 Chrysler turquoise were 
mentioned.  While going through a Summit catalog yesterday, I saw engine 
paint in Chrysler turquoise for 62-71 big blocks, from Mopar Performance.

It's said to be the right color for these engines.  It's available for
$5.95 
a can from Summit.  I'll probably try some of this.  The other brands
don't 
seem to be reliable for color purposes.  The POR15 paint chips vary
greatly 
from one of their catalogs to the next, and the 2 cans of Plasticote I
have 
from way back don't match each other, either the plastic tops or the paint

itself (same name & number on the cans).  I'm painting engine parts now,
and 
don't want to have mismatches in color when the whole thing is put back 
together.  
I hope this can help someone else out there.

George Clineman

P.S.  Has anyone tried the Mopar paint?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 2
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 08:37:35 -0700
   From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: HELP!

Had junkyard parts installed to convert the car to disc brakes some
years ago with 1970's parts.  Lost the turning radius and have never
been happy.

Now that the motor is out, I decided to not only rebuild the front end,
but return it to stock spindles (steering knuckles), tie rods, etc. and
add a disc brake kit from AAJ Brakes (like I added to our '62 wagon).

Ordered all of the new ball joints from Andy Bernbaum.  Took out the
upper & lower control arms (which have always been original to the car)
and had my front end shop unscrew the old ones & screw in the new ones.
Upon my reinstalling them onto the car, then following tightening
specifications from the factory shop manual, I see that all four ball
joint castle nuts end up way below the cotter key area.  They all have
their flat washers that came with the ball joints. I tried 1 lock washer
on top of one flat washer, though that still did not take up the
difference.  Nut is still too low.

Called Andy Bernbaum's company and Steve (their front end guy) checked
the part numbers stamped on each upper & lower ball joint.  They are
correct for the Newport/300 Sport application he said.  He asked me to
check the shape of the inner tie rods, saying that if they were bent
(rather than more straight) then the car would have received a NY/300H
frame from the factory and I would need the larger ball joints.  I just
looked at the NY wagon inners compares the new inners I ordered for the
300 Sport.  They do differ from each other.  The NY's are "twisted" in
design where the Sport's are "straight" in relation to its factory bend.
Just checked the inners that were on the car for the last decade (if not
longer) and they are also "straight".

So now...the question.  If the Sport has the Short Wheel Base frame that
its supposed to have (and most likely does) why would the car have upper
& lower control arms that need the larger ball joints?  Are the steering
knuckles (spindles) interchangeable as to which side they go on to?
Could I have put them on upside down? (the steering arms, I mean).
Obviously the ball joints screwed into the control arms a-ok, though the
ball joint studs are going to far into the steering arm tapered holes,
thus making the nuts go too far down on the stud.

Need to have the car back on its wheels by the last weekend of the
month, so I roll it out of the way fro my 1 year olds birthday party.
Work 5 days a week, 12 hours a day.  AAARRRGGGHHH!!!

I will call anyone to discuss!  Please help!
Thanks!!!
Matt Allyn

-----Original Message-----
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx [mailto:MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 5:09 AM
To: gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] HELP!

I'll try to help.  email me your problems and I'll see if I can find a 
solution.

Mike Meyer



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Message: 3
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 10:03:00 -0700
   From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Murray Park

I left his number at my office and I need to give him a call today.

Anyone have his number handy?

Matt Allyn



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 4
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 10:10:40 -0700
   From: "bevacqua" <tonysru2@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Murray Park

419-448-0293
Tony

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 10:03 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Murray Park


> I left his number at my office and I need to give him a call today.
> 
> Anyone have his number handy?
> 
> Matt Allyn
> 
> 




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Message: 5
   Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 12:03:02 -0700
   From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint

George, I just finished restoring my '65 383 a couple weeks ago and used
VHT 
  engine paint in aerosol cans (SP-126 Early Chrysler Blue). They call it 
blue but it is turqoise. I have used the Mopar Performance paint in Hemi 
orange before and found it to be a close match to the original but it was 
quite costly. I chose VHT this time mainly because it's more readily 
available but it closely matches the original color of my engine and I've 
always had good luck with VHT paint. (It sprays well and has good coverage

as well as being durable)

When it comes to painting anything you have to realize that there can be 
variances in color between batches even now with all the mixing technology

we have. When our cars were new, there were most definitely variances in 
color from one engine to another depending on where and when they were 
painted. My theory is that being close is as acurate as you will ever get.

If you use the vehicle, the paint will fade and dull somewhat anyway just
as 
the factory paint did. If mine dulls in time it should prove to be very 
close to a flake of paint I scraped off my oil pan so I'm happy with the 
results.

Good Luck.



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Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com



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Message: 6
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 12:41:39 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300K

Yes, it's that time of the decade again... Time for
the 300K feature in the Club News.  We need stories,
we have none.  Let's hit those typewriters, boys and
girls.

We'll set the deadline for one month: October 7th.

Let me know if you can submit a story. Thanks in
advance,

Andy Mikonis
Editor, Chrysler 300 Club News
R41HP@xxxxxxxxx


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Message: 7
   Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 20:24:43 -0700 (PDT)
   From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint


The Mopar performance turquoise engine paint is a good match to the
original (and from can-to-can), and holds up pretty well.  I bought mine
from a local Dodge dealer who had a display at the all-Mopar show held
each year at Moroso Motorsports Park - BTW, this years' show is Sunday,
September 15, a week away.  
Regards, 
John Spiers 

 News4ge@xxxxxxx wrote:
Some time ago, someone asked about the correct color of engine paint for
1962 
and up.  Plasticote Chrysler green and POR15 Chrysler turquoise were 
mentioned.  While going through a Summit catalog yesterday, I saw engine 
paint in Chrysler turquoise for 62-71 big blocks, from Mopar Performance.

It's said to be the right color for these engines.  It's available for
$5.95 
a can from Summit.  I'll probably try some of this.  The other brands
don't 
seem to be reliable for color purposes.  The POR15 paint chips vary
greatly 
from one of their catalogs to the next, and the 2 cans of Plasticote I
have 
from way back don't match each other, either the plastic tops or the paint

itself (same name & number on the cans).  I'm painting engine parts now,
and 
don't want to have mismatches in color when the whole thing is put back 
together.  
I hope this can help someone else out there.

George Clineman

P.S.  Has anyone tried the Mopar paint?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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