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There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Windshield Rubber
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: RE: Windshield Rubber
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Documents
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Armor All
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
9. Cleaning rubber and preserving it
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Armor All
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Documents
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Windshield Rubber
From: KEN WILSON <jblken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. ???
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Armor All
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
17. RE: Armor All
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:13:44 -0500
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Windshield Rubber
The only thing I know of to safely remove the goop without damaging the
paint is lighter fluid. Acetone, lacquer thinner, and stripper will damage
the paint. I heard that a product called "Goof Off" is good to remove glue
but I never tried it so I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ryan Hill [SMTP:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 2:06 PM
> To: souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx;
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Windshield Rubber
>
> This discussion about softening window rubber triggers a question that I
> have been toiling with. What can be used to safely clean rubber window
> gaskets? My front and rear gaskets on my '65 are soft enough but are
> pretty
> gooped up with sealer (As well as the edges of my original rear glass)
>
> The front glass had been replaced recently and I think it's eurethane that
>
> was used however the original black sealer is still present as well and is
>
> really sticky. Didn't really want to resort to acetone, laquer thinner, or
>
> any type of stripper until I ran it by the group.
>
> What was the original product used and what will disolve it(if anything)?
> Anybody have any tricks to make this job easier?
>
> Ryan Hill
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 11:29:22 -0800
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
Goof Off is great for removing adhesives and glues and might work on the
sealer but I'm still concerned about drying out the rubber. I'm not
concerned with damaging paint because the glass and gaskets are out of the
car.
Thanks.
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:06:34 -0800
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
I have known for 25 years that this stuff is crap. If used on your interior, not only does it turn black vinyl sort of a gold color it also fogs your windows when evaporating with this greasy film that is impossible to remove. On tires it also discolor them and gives this greasy oily look.
I once had my old Corvette repaired at a first class body shop and when I picked it up they had done me the favor of doing my entire interior in Armor All for me. After I came down from the ceiling the owner agreed to clean it up which he did. Took them a full day in the detail shop to get this stuff out.
A few years later I was visiting with this owner and he axed me if I remember this incident. I said how good I forget. He said then that my uproar had reminded him of a problem that he had been unable to resolve in that often in his very expensive paint jobs they would get "fisheyes" in the finish.
He had had a number of consultants and paint folks in to help him resolve this to no success. My complaint had caused him to go to his detail shop which was a separate large room in his building and he noted that the ventilation system was shared with the paint area. You can guess the rest of the story. Case Closed.
I use Protectant 303 and find it excellent for interiors and exterior rubber and on tires. Low gloss satin finish, does not stain windows and offers good UV protection. Hard to find but very good stuff.
Roger
300 B in Calif
----- Original Message -----
From: JOHN MC ADAMS
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:13 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
To All:
I hate to put a bad rap on any product but I have also heard horror stories about Armor-All.
When I called the place that manufactures new dash pads called "Just Dashes", they said to never use Armor-All on your dash or any vinyl.
I asked what they recommended to use on their new dash pads and they told me to use Pledge furniture polish / wax.
John Mc Adams
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:42:52 -0500
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: RE: Windshield Rubber
So it's looking like Jennifer was right after all. Get new ones from Gary
Goers..............
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ryan Hill [SMTP:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 2:29 PM
> To: souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx;
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] RE: Windshield Rubber
>
> Goof Off is great for removing adhesives and glues and might work on the
> sealer but I'm still concerned about drying out the rubber. I'm not
> concerned with damaging paint because the glass and gaskets are out of the
>
> car.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:18:33 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
Yes, when I had my '57 dashpad recovered, I was warned to never put this
stuff anywhere near it.
Owen
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 12:27:29 -0800
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
Try 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover. Also a neat trick that I found when trying to put the 3M string body putty between your car body and the rear quarter windows moldings(I had removed for polishing the stainless) was Goof Off.
I made a string of this stuff to fit the general contour of the molding and the body, screwed the parts together which caused some of the stuff to squish out leaving a terrible line. As any of you who have done this probably know the idea is to now make this a clean line and I found it impossible until I tried this.
I took a small section of Turkish toweling, poured a little Goof Off on a corner of it and using my forefinger just began rubbing back and forth on this squished out line. This action removed the squished out putty cleanly and I was left with a window molding, body roof line fit that was a good or better than the factory job.
Took some time and patience but all other methods that I tried did not turn out well at all.
Roger
300 B in Calif
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Hill
To: souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ; clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:05 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] RE: Windshield Rubber
This discussion about softening window rubber triggers a question that I
have been toiling with. What can be used to safely clean rubber window
gaskets? My front and rear gaskets on my '65 are soft enough but are pretty
gooped up with sealer (As well as the edges of my original rear glass)
The front glass had been replaced recently and I think it's eurethane that
was used however the original black sealer is still present as well and is
really sticky. Didn't really want to resort to acetone, laquer thinner, or
any type of stripper until I ran it by the group.
What was the original product used and what will disolve it(if anything)?
Anybody have any tricks to make this job easier?
Ryan Hill
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:13:36 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Documents
Hi everyone
I wanted to get some of the original paperwork from my 300 mounted in some kind of frame to preserve it.
A lot of it nearly falls to bits when touched. Any ideas on how to do this or who to take it to?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:21:41 -0800
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Armor All
I have been using armor all products for years with no ill affects. It's like any product, you have to follow the directions. It's not supposed to be gooped on and left there. It's designed to be applied, let sit for a few minutes and wiped off. I've owned my Imperial for 23 years, and it still has all it's original interior panels and they are in great shape. I don't use it on leather, I use Mothers leather lotion for that. I also don't use armor all on exterior surfaces, and certainly not on tires.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:03:10 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleaning rubber and preserving it
When I really want to clean a piece of rubber, I use Acetone (wear gloves!) and then I treat rubber from tires to weatherseals all with Maguire's #40 Vinyl and Rubber treatment.
The one time I used Armor-All on a new set of Michelins they had severe side wall cracks within a year!!! Quoth the raven: NEVERMORE!
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 18:51:18 -0800
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Armor All
How do you get the evaporated gook off you interior windows?
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Verity
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:21 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Armor All
I have been using armor all products for years with no ill affects. It's like any product, you have to follow the directions. It's not supposed to be gooped on and left there. It's designed to be applied, let sit for a few minutes and wiped off. I've owned my Imperial for 23 years, and it still has all it's original interior panels and they are in great shape. I don't use it on leather, I use Mothers leather lotion for that. I also don't use armor all on exterior surfaces, and certainly not on tires.
300ly,
Don
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:42:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Armor-all warning - Windshield Rubber
Hi
I am supprised at the backlash against Armor-all. I
have used it since 1975 and prior to that i was using
Pledge furniture polish. Perhaps the cooler Canadian
climate does not have the effect on Armor-all that a
hotter climate does. I have always used it sparingly.
I have noticed on certain brands of tires they turn
brown after a week, if exposed to prolonged sunlight.
I have switched to other products in recent years
because there are so many to choose from.
As far as a chemical for cleqaning rubber, I have used
laquer thinner, with no problems. It cleans the rubber
really nice. After cleaning I use a rubber conditioner
to keep it fresh.
Paul Martin
300F
Vancouver BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:55:44 -0600
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Documents
Hi Owen;
A good framing shop could handle this. You need acid free archival paper to
mount the documents on for starters. Make sure they can do museum quality
framing. It'll be pricy, but there aren't any shortcuts.
Ray Jones
> From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:13:36 +1300
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Documents
>
> Hi everyone
>
> I wanted to get some of the original paperwork from my 300 mounted in some
> kind of frame to preserve it.
> A lot of it nearly falls to bits when touched. Any ideas on how to do this or
> who to take it to?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
> Owen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 21:35:56 -0800
From: KEN WILSON <jblken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Rubber
Ditto on the Armor-all.
Some 25 years ago I used the stuff on my nice '62 dash pad looked great
-for a while-then the pad disintegrated into pieces the size of quarters!
Ken Wilson
dan300f@xxxxxxx wrote:
>Hi all:
>
>If Mike means Armor-all instead of Amor-all, then I would not recomment its
>use. Years ago, I used Armor-all on the vinyl top of my '76 NYer to preserve
>it and bring out the color and within months it rotted out. Several friends
>have had the same results on vinyl. Maybe rubber would be different but on a
>part that may be difficult and expensive to obtain, I definitely would not
>chance it.
>
>Dan Reitz
>Northridge, CA
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:58:16 -0800
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: Windshield Rubber
Goof Off is a good product. I buy it by the gallon and always have it
around. It removes dried water based paint. Any fresh paint. And all
adhesives. I use it to remove the filled in no. and letters on back side of
gauge faces when restoring. Not pungent or volatile like the other strong
solvents. Read label and test. I don't want anybody bitting my butt.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 02:13 PM 12/3/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>The only thing I know of to safely remove the goop without damaging the
>paint is lighter fluid. Acetone, lacquer thinner, and stripper will damage
>the paint. I heard that a product called "Goof Off" is good to remove glue
>but I never tried it so I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
>
>Mark
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ryan Hill [SMTP:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 2:06 PM
> > To: souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx;
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: Windshield Rubber
> >
> > This discussion about softening window rubber triggers a question that I
> > have been toiling with. What can be used to safely clean rubber window
> > gaskets? My front and rear gaskets on my '65 are soft enough but are
> > pretty
> > gooped up with sealer (As well as the edges of my original rear glass)
> >
> > The front glass had been replaced recently and I think it's eurethane that
> >
> > was used however the original black sealer is still present as well and is
> >
> > really sticky. Didn't really want to resort to acetone, laquer thinner, or
> >
> > any type of stripper until I ran it by the group.
> >
> > What was the original product used and what will disolve it(if anything)?
> > Anybody have any tricks to make this job easier?
> >
> > Ryan Hill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:43:20 -0700
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ???
I guess by the response I got from the group.. None, nobody has received
any of the new lower rear quarters from Metalcrafters. I have also made
two calls to them to no avail regarding purchase of these pieces.
Doesn't sound much like they are selling any/many and not much like they
want to sell very many of these.
George
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 07:59:22 -0800
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Armor All
I really don't get much on the inside of the glass. Since I buff off the extra armor all, there is not much to evaporate. I've found that plain old water gets the windows cleaner and with less streaks than window cleaner.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: obiwan10
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Don Verity
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Armor All
How do you get the evaporated gook off you interior windows?
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Verity
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:21 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Armor All
I have been using armor all products for years with no ill affects. It's like any product, you have to follow the directions. It's not supposed to be gooped on and left there. It's designed to be applied, let sit for a few minutes and wiped off. I've owned my Imperial for 23 years, and it still has all it's original interior panels and they are in great shape. I don't use it on leather, I use Mothers leather lotion for that. I also don't use armor all on exterior surfaces, and certainly not on tires.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:10:27 -0500
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Armor All
The best way I've found to clean inside windows is a mixture of water and
vinegar in a spray bottle and use crumpled newspaper as a rag. Spray on,
wipe off. Mix one gallon of water to two glugs (about 1/2 cup) of vinegar.
Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Verity [SMTP:d.verity@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:59 AM
> To: obiwan10; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Armor All
>
> I really don't get much on the inside of the glass. Since I buff off the
> extra armor all, there is not much to evaporate. I've found that plain old
> water gets the windows cleaner and with less streaks than window cleaner.
>
> 300ly,
> Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: obiwan10
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Don Verity
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 6:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Armor All
>
>
> How do you get the evaporated gook off you interior windows?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Verity
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:21 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Armor All
>
>
> I have been using armor all products for years with no ill affects.
> It's like any product, you have to follow the directions. It's not
> supposed to be gooped on and left there. It's designed to be applied, let
> sit for a few minutes and wiped off. I've owned my Imperial for 23 years,
> and it still has all it's original interior panels and they are in great
> shape. I don't use it on leather, I use Mothers leather lotion for that. I
> also don't use armor all on exterior surfaces, and certainly not on tires.
>
> 300ly,
> Don
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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