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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Star Trek 300C
From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
2. Pieces/parts - 61-62 -- free stuff
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Thanks for the help! --Pieces/parts - 61-62 -- free stuff
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
4. National Meet @ Lake Tahoe
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
5. undercoating
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: undercoating
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
7. Aluminum console trim 300F
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. '64 Heater Controls
From: "Ron Kurtz" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Fryer's Auto Upholstery Recommendation??
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
10. Aluminum console trim 300F and hood pad
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. undercoating - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: undercoating
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: undercoating
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Undercoating, my two cents too
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:27:36 -0400
From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Star Trek 300C
Any other trekkies out there?
Help me out - did I or did I not see a gauguin(?) red 300-C
on the 9/25/02 episode of Star Trek Enterprise on UPN.
Jeff Miklas
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:54:54 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Pieces/parts - 61-62 -- free stuff
Hello & happy Friday. Still raining in Atlanta.
I've a couple boxes of small parts remaining from the 300H resto. Things like shifter push-buttons, dash plates, headlight rings/bases, door handles, rear panel Chrysler script emblems, fender script panel, front turn signal, dash chrome, ashtrays, door handles, Newport speedo, license plate door & potmetal trim, horns, hood latches etc, etc. I've also got some interior panel trim; the long aluminum interior panel spears from both 2-door and 4-door cars.
The wife wants 'em outta the house - and the garage is already full - so I figured I'd ask before committing the sin of trashing old parts. Does anyone out there want them? Free - if you'll cover shipping cost (or send beer). There might be 2 copy paper-size boxes, plus the longer trim.
Sorry for the junkmail.
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 13:25:22 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thanks for the help! --Pieces/parts - 61-62 -- free stuff
The goodies have been grabbed. Thanks very much for helping me get back into good graces with the wife.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vath, Michael J.
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 12:55 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Pieces/parts - 61-62 -- free stuff
Hello & happy Friday. Still raining in Atlanta.
I've a couple boxes of small parts remaining from the 300H resto. Things like shifter push-buttons, dash plates, headlight rings/bases, door handles, rear panel Chrysler script emblems, fender script panel, front turn signal, dash chrome, ashtrays, door handles, Newport speedo, license plate door & potmetal trim, horns, hood latches etc, etc. I've also got some interior panel trim; the long aluminum interior panel spears from both 2-door and 4-door cars.
The wife wants 'em outta the house - and the garage is already full - so I figured I'd ask before committing the sin of trashing old parts. Does anyone out there want them? Free - if you'll cover shipping cost (or send beer). There might be 2 copy paper-size boxes, plus the longer trim.
Sorry for the junkmail.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 16:53:28 EDT
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: National Meet @ Lake Tahoe
Secret negotiations going on now between Lefty and Ray Jones about possibly a
Lake Tahoe National Meet in Fall of 2005. Should any western members have
contacts at Lake Tahoe or close by that might have room for 100 plus 300
crazies, please share this news privately off list. Thinking early August so
that some may come early to experience Hot August Nights and the Wood Boat
Concours at Lake Tahoe as part of the total experience. Perhaps this is all
hot air but I want to to a feasibility study ASAP.
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 15:17:12 -0700
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: undercoating
First things first, I don't get as many calls on my radio talk show as John got on the popping problem. Now here's my question; I am gettingready for a body off restoration of my "E". I have had several body people look at the car and all are impresed at the excellent condition of the body. Do I take off all the old (original) undercoating, and if so, how? Or do I just repair it? There are a few places in the front fender well where it has worn off. I do live in the frozen bloody north (Canada)
what are your thoughts?
Ben Meisner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 18:44:38 -0700
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: undercoating
Hi Ben,
In my opinion, I would leave all the original undercoating that is stuck
on good in place, and repair the areas that are bare. You can't beat the
original stuff for the look and sound deadening qualities.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
To: chrysler 300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 3:17 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] undercoating
> First things first, I don't get as many calls on my radio talk show as
John got on the popping problem. Now here's my question; I am
gettingready for a body off restoration of my "E". I have had several body
people look at the car and all are impresed at the excellent condition of
the body. Do I take off all the old (original) undercoating, and if so,
how? Or do I just repair it? There are a few places in the front fender
well where it has worn off. I do live in the frozen bloody north (Canada)
>
> what are your thoughts?
>
>
> Ben Meisner
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 18:05:24 -0500
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Aluminum console trim 300F
Hi all,
I'm about to order the 300F aluminum console trim inserts from Gary Goers,
and would like to know if anyone out there has had some experience in
replacing these items themselves. If so, are there any "tricks" or
installation procedures I should be aware of? Also, how many fastening
clips are there for the hood insulation on a 300F?
Alex Krikhaar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 19:51:49 -0700
From: "Ron Kurtz" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '64 Heater Controls
Hello, everyone:
Does anyone have a heater control bezel with push buttons and heater control lever that sits to the right of the instrument cluster? I need one for a '64 Chrysler. Color doesn't matter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Best regards,
Ron Kurtz
E #292
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 22:26:05 EDT
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fryer's Auto Upholstery Recommendation??
Hi All,
Can anyone provide a testimonial for Fryer's
Auto Upholstery.
I am considering them as a supplier for
replacement claret leather seats for my
63 Chrysler 300 Conv.
I understand Gary Goers
does not make the convertible size.
Your comments are appreciated.
300ly,
Mark Lindahl
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 22:52:14 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Aluminum console trim 300F and hood pad
Hi Alex,
Yours must be a trick question - there are NO clips for the 300F hood pad !
Console trim replacement:
1/ Start by removing rear seat bottoms.
2/ Step 2, remove both front seats by undoing the 9/16th headed bolt under
rear of each front seat, where it pivots. Once that bolt is removed just
lift the rear of the seat up, and move backwards. The whole seat comes right
out. Do not lose the two plastic roller-balls .
3/ You must then remove both consoles. A bit tricky if you have never done
it before. Take your time. Take notes. Write down the order in which things
come apart and where they go. Be organized. Start from the front, or from
the back.. but write everything down and tag and mark all the screws and
nuts and bolts...
4/ Consoles: Each of the long anodized strips that run front to back must
be removed. There are four in all, plus the two little butt-pieces.
note: this would be a good time to get these pieces restored if they need
it. They are likely scratched and perhaps even dented. Suggest sending to
Ano-Brite in CA http://www.anobrite.com/ owner, Marcos Cielak .
5/ Console INSERTS ( that ribbed stuff) can be ordered brand new from Gary
Goers.
6/ Expect a fight getting the strips back on to the consoles once the new
inserts have been fitted. Those damn carriage-headed bolts, you'll see.
Don't bang on the strips to get them in place or you will dent them.
Patience.
7/ Reassemble consoles in the car.
8/ Reinstall all the seats and enjoy the results.
Let me know if any questions
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 7:05 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Aluminum console trim 300F
> Hi all,
>
> I'm about to order the 300F aluminum console trim inserts from Gary Goers,
> and would like to know if anyone out there has had some experience in
> replacing these items themselves. If so, are there any "tricks" or
> installation procedures I should be aware of? Also, how many fastening
> clips are there for the hood insulation on a 300F?
>
> Alex Krikhaar
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 22:55:21 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: undercoating - reply
Hi Ben,
I also agree with Don. Leave as much of the original undercoating in place.
Whatever areas need to be filled in, use roofing tar, that plastic stuff...
available in hardware stores. Lay it in place with a putty knife, allow to
set up a little bit, and then use a Scotch-Brite pad to give the correct
texture by tapping the pad against the roofing stuff... it really works.
John
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 23:18:56 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: undercoating
Hi Bob;
Maybe you ought to talk Chryslers on your show!
The major couse of rusted out floors and fenders is Undercoat. It gets hard
and brittle, then crcks. Water gets under the undercoat through the cracks
and cant get out....hence rust.
My suggestion is remove all of it and at the end of the restoration, last
thing spray ir with modern undercoat (as found on the Jap car) as it is soft
and never gets hard. Stays somewhat soft and is thus a complete barrier. A
nuisance to work around, but effective. Many won't agree, but it will solve
the rust problem.
Ray Jones
> From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 15:17:12 -0700
> To: chrysler 300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] undercoating
>
> First things first, I don't get as many calls on my radio talk show as John
> got on the popping problem. Now here's my question; I am gettingready for a
> body off restoration of my "E". I have had several body people look at the
> car and all are impresed at the excellent condition of the body. Do I take
> off all the old (original) undercoating, and if so, how? Or do I just repair
> it? There are a few places in the front fender well where it has worn off. I
> do live in the frozen bloody north (Canada)
>
> what are your thoughts?
>
>
> Ben Meisner
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 23:44:46 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: undercoating
I agree with Ray. Take it all off. I was told 3M has a good under coating
in a aerosol can. Have not used it, but going to check it out.
All of 3M products are good.
Gary
At 11:18 PM 9/27/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
>Hi Bob;
>Maybe you ought to talk Chryslers on your show!
>The major couse of rusted out floors and fenders is Undercoat. It gets hard
>and brittle, then crcks. Water gets under the undercoat through the cracks
>and cant get out....hence rust.
>My suggestion is remove all of it and at the end of the restoration, last
>thing spray ir with modern undercoat (as found on the Jap car) as it is soft
>and never gets hard. Stays somewhat soft and is thus a complete barrier. A
>nuisance to work around, but effective. Many won't agree, but it will solve
>the rust problem.
>Ray Jones
>
> > From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
> > Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 15:17:12 -0700
> > To: chrysler 300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] undercoating
> >
> > First things first, I don't get as many calls on my radio talk show as John
> > got on the popping problem. Now here's my question; I am
> gettingready for a
> > body off restoration of my "E". I have had several body people look
> at the
> > car and all are impresed at the excellent condition of the body. Do I take
> > off all the old (original) undercoating, and if so, how? Or do I just
> repair
> > it? There are a few places in the front fender well where it has worn
> off. I
> > do live in the frozen bloody north (Canada)
> >
> > what are your thoughts?
> >
> >
> > Ben Meisner
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 04:14:41 EDT
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Undercoating, my two cents too
Ben,
Decide first why you want to either remove or keep the
undercoating. It was never meant as a rust preventative nor is it likely that
your restored E is ever going to see salt , slush and snow anyway. A good
epoxy primer by itself will do more to prevent rust than any undercoating
job.
If you're doing a frame off, rotisserie job and plan to display
the car with mirrors underneath and want it to look pretty then remove it
all, and paint the underside of the car. To maintain some flavor of
authenticity however I don't recommend fully painting the floorpans, rather
overspray from the sides, shooting towards the center of the vehicle and
don't paint into the trans tunnel or in the area above the rear axle housing.
I believe undercoating was standard on all 300's but not sure, perhaps
someone else can confirm this but if you want mirrors and looks leave it off
but remember its probably not original.
If you're doing the rotisserie style job and want to remove the
old undercoating with the intention of repainting the floor pans and putting
the undercoating back for originality then I'd advise against it for several
reasons.
1. done properly its extremely time consuming and if you're not doing it
yourself figure on 30-40 hours or more of prep time before its ready
for paint, ie: $$$
2. you'll have an extremely hard time trying to duplicate the look and
also texture of
the original undercoating. That stuff was blown on at pressure and a
spray can
isn't going to cut it. Personal experience with a pressurized
applicator gun you
can buy at an auto paint supply house wont give you the same results
either.
3. Unless the stuff is cracking and loose (too late, you've probably got
rust), leave
it alone, you wont find any rust underneath it unless your car is
rotten from the
inside out and then its likely that the undercoating is all that's
keeping your
carpet in the car.
If you want undercoating consider this... Carefully inspect the
underside and remove any loose undercoating. Make all your metal repairs and
refinish the underside of the vehicle as ORIGINAL where appropriate. Apply
body color underneath where you find it and leave anything bare primer and
not painted nor undercoated ... as you find it appropriate. A mixture of PPG
DP90 and DP40 epoxy primers will resemble the grayish Chrysler primer and it
wont rust through. Now that the metal underside of the vehicle has been
painted and/or primered like the day it was assembled 40 something years ago
you can repair the undercoat where needed per John Hertog's recommendation.
Finally, avoid "rubberized" undercoating in a can and find a brand called
Dynatron. Get a few cans and lightly coat the original existing
undercoating. This will simply give a like-new coloring to your old
undercoat while also "blending" any repaired undercoat and it will also cover
any overspray of primers or body colors which will have gotten on the
original undercoating as you were spraying the bottom of the car.
While the above is only my recommendations based on my results using
several different techniques on several different cars I've done I hope it
will at least give you some more options to consider. I'd also recommend not
only carefully photographing your car's existing details for documentation
but also seeking out the advice of one of the club's knowledgeable
undercarriage judges. Good luck!
Michael Laiserin
Phoenix, Az
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