[Chrysler300] Digest Number 381
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 381



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There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Parts For Sale
           From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
      2. Car Assessment Needed
           From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
      3. 300L Carpet & Headliner
           From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Masking advice - reply
           From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:45:33 -0400
   From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts For Sale

Group:

Ran into former club member Joel Cox at a  swap meet Saturday.
He still had some reproduction parts left that he had "sand-cast" in BRASS
years ago such as 300F reverse lamp bezels, 300F license frame and 300F
deck "CHRYSLER" script w/ logo.

Among his used parts I saw 300G side madallions and bezels,
300F/G manifold heat elbow, ram intake carburetor linkage,the small piece
for F,G,H console that covers where front and rear side stainless joins
and a hemi valve cover (yes-with rocker reliefs) for I THINK he said C or
D.

Call Joel DIRECT at 440-366-6767. (Ohio)

PLEASE! DO NOT REPLY TO ME - I am not involved in the sale of thse parts.

Jeff Miklas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 2
   Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:38:51 EDT
   From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car Assessment Needed

<PRE>A member in central Illinois has a 300B for sale, and he has no idea 
whatsoever what it might be worth.  Is there a Club member living near 
Decatur Illinois (where the car is stored) who would be able to look over
the 
car and perhaps fill out a Clearinghouse sheet for it?  These sheets are 
available from the Club Clearinghouse; see the Newsletter for the address.

Interested members should contact the member directly.  His e-mail address

is:  boomer4548@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  Thanks in advance for all and any help
with 
this matter.


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Message: 3
   Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 17:55:00 -0400
   From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300L Carpet & Headliner

Hi Steve,

I installed Legendary carpet and headliner as well as seat covers and seat
foam from Legendary Auto Interiors in my 300L hardtop, and was satisfied
with the results . Except for the one following item:

PLEASE NOTE :( as Ryan Hill brought up..)   300L used thick rubber heel
pads, one on each side in the front footwells.  These MUST be saved from
old
carpet as they will need to be stitched into the new Legendary carpet.

Also, the Legendary carpet comes with a generic rubber heel pad on  the
driver's side only.  It is totally incorrect. The way to proceed, if
ordering 300L carpet from Legendary, is to specify a carpet with NO HEEL
PAD
!!!!

Better yet is to order all this stuff from Gary Goers.

Hope this helps,
John





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Message: 4
   Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 18:12:05 -0400
   From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Masking advice - reply

Hi Ryan,

With regards to your masking question - I have some experience that might
be
of help. In the same way that you did, on each car that I have restored, I
pre-painted the engine compartment, door jambs, inside the trunk and
inside
trunk lid, etc... , allowing some paint to extend PAST these areas onto
the
outer body.  I then proceeded as you plan to do , namely block-sanding,
priming and painting the outer body. In order to keep primer from  going
into the engine cpt, door jambs and trunk, I used a procedure called
"back-taping" . It is essentially exactly what the name implies - you roll
some masking tape onto itself (creating something akin to a gasket) and
place it all around the hood, doors, trunk, etc. ; you use different width
masking tape depending on need - 2" tape works just fine for most. You
then
shut the hood / trunk / doors over this improvised gasket and proceed with
blocking and priming . When body is ready for paint, you remove the old
"backtape" , clean off everything once again as there will be dust and
other
junk from the sanding, etc..   and then proceed to re-backtape
everything.

Once the car is painted, you remove the backtape, and some light
wet-sanding
will make the overlap disappear entirely.

There is no substitute for taking your time with backtaping and masking.

Hope this helps...  no advice as to source for good gaskets. Reusing
originals whenever possible is always a safe bet.

John


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>

>
> Group, I know some of you do your own bodywork and paint as I do so
> hopefully someone will have a good solution for my problem. I have
painted
> the firewall, door sills, inner fenders, rad support, inner doors, etc.
> prior to reassembly on my '65 300. Now that I have aligned the doors,
> fenders, trunk lid, and hood I'm wanting to continue blocking out the
body
> and finishing the final bodywork on the outer body.
>
> My problem is that I need an efficient way of sealing the doors, hood,
and
> trunk so the building primer/sealer I'm laying over the body doesn't
ruin
my
> finished paintwork on the inside of the door jambs and under the hood.
I've
> done my share of masking in the past but never has it needed to be this
> good, I'm looking for perfection here......no overspray! Any
suggestions?
> I've considered buying foam piping and squeezing it or taping it at the
> seams.......might work well for the hood and trunk but not sure about
the
> doors.
>
> I'm also interested in restoring my original window gaskets, is there a
> cleaner that will disolve old sealer and clean the rubber without
damaging
> or deteriorating the rubber?  Are there any nice fitting aftermarket
gaskets
> available for the '65? Recent emails have been warning of poor
reproductions
> of the earlier Chrysler gaskets. Has anyone used the ones Steele Rubber
> Products offer......their weatherstripping is very nice!
>
> Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Ryan Hill
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
>



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