[Chrysler300] Digest Number 351
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 351



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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: '65 engine detail.
           From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. 61 chrysler gauges
           From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. ammeter guage F
           From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
      4. Torsion Bar Help
           From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Ball Joint Seals
           From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:27:31 -0400
   From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '65 engine detail.

I purchased a new 1965 Dodge Coronet 440 with the 426 Street Wedge engine.

Here is how it was detailed:

The color was Turquoise green, not High performance orange or red like the

ram cars. I think this is what yours should be also.

The throttle bracket that bolts to the rear intake manifold bolts was also

Turquoise including the manifold bolt heads. The clamp on the inside of
the 
bracket that secures the throttle cable was NOT painted nor was the cable 
end or the clamp bolt.

My exhaust manifolds had some overspray on them in the areas where the 
manifolds joined the heads. It extended, in some cases, to cover portions
of 
the studs and nuts that retained the manifolds to the heads.

The coil bracket was unpainted.

Sending units were unpainted.

Mine had chrome rocker arm covers so they were, of course, unpainted but a

standard engine had Tourquoise covers with paint on the exposed portions
of 
the gaskets in a hit or miss fasion. I think a mask of some sort was used
on 
the chrome covers because mine had some paint on the original gaskets and
a 
little overspray on the rim of the covers.

The alternator support brackets, adjusting strap, and spacers were painted
a 
medium gloss black. Bolt heads were unpainted.

The spouts for the heater hoses were galvaqnized and unpainted.

The water pump was painted as part of the engine and had some overspray on

the shaft and seal. The clutch fan had no signs of overspray anywhere.

The carburetor pad had some overspray under the carb gasket.

Plug wires had no signs of overspray.

Thats the best of my recollection. Hope it helps. It should be pretty
close 
to your Chrysler.
regards,
Larry Johnson


>From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] '65 engine detail.
>Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 14:34:09 -0700
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm in the process of finishing the final assembly of my engine for my
'65
>300 and had a couple questions regarding paint as unfortunately the prior
>owner had 'detailed' the engine and ruined my chances of varifying how
and
>what was installed on the engine prior to the factory applying paint.
>
>Were the exhaust manifolds installed prior to painting an engine in 1965?

>If
>so, were they covered in paint or just painted mostly on the top?
>
>Were the carb linkage brackets installed and painted engine color?
>
>Were the water temp and oil pres. sending units installed prior to paint?
>
>If anyone has a picture of what an original 1965 engine should look like
>please forward it to me, it would be a great help.
>
>Have a great day 300 fans! Ryan Hill
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>




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Message: 2
   Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 01:14:18 +0000
   From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 61 chrysler gauges


Hi.
  The one that had the working gauges for my 61 chrysler i need a oil
gauge 
temp gauge and a fuel gauge will they please come forward you said fifty 
dollars a piece thank you tom.

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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 21:50:31 -0500
   From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: ammeter guage F

getting ready to do a road trip & my ammeter on my F is either acting up 
or the system isn't charging right. Just starts registering discharge 
while driving. Tapping the voltage regulator makes no difference. I have 
had this problem intermittently since replacing the voltage regulator & 
rebuilding the Generator last year. Any ideas? Anyone see any problems 
with installing an after market under dash ammeter just to be sure?
Thanks.
Lindsey Fuller



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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 20:00:45 -0700
   From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Torsion Bar Help

Installing the torsion bars and new front end components on the '62 300
tomorrow.
I've read the manual just now & wish I had someone close by to come show
me what to do in the morning!
 
Anyway.any advice on the install of the torsion bar?
I have new balloon seals from Gary Goers, though am not 100% sure where
they go.  Do they live at the rear of the bar, in front of the anchor?
Or do they live at the front of the bar, where it enters the control
arm?
 
How much grease do I pack into the front where the bar enters the
control arm?
How much grease do I pack into the rear of the bar where the lock ring
and plastic seal go?
Does grease go into the torsion bar in front of the anchor?
And.how will I be sure that I'm getting the angle correct at the back
end of the torsion bar, so that the front end can be leveled properly?
 
Thanks!
Matt Allyn


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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 21:07:04 -0700
   From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ball Joint Seals

1962 300 ball joint seals.
Do I just place them over the ball joints that are now screwed into
their control arms?
The manual states that the seals must be installed with some type of
Chrysler tool.
 
Thanks,
Matt Allyn


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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