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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Painting help needed
From: RWestra@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Painting help needed
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Reccommended process
From: "kandyce hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Engine Painting
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Photos of new Coker 235/75R14 Radials
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Photos of new Coker 235/75R14 Radials
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
7. 1962 PARTS NEEDED
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 09:47:57 EDT
From: RWestra@xxxxxxx
Subject: Painting help needed
Does anyone have good information on what combinations of
paint would give good results on my 300 L? I have had some
discussion with show car painters and it is beginning to sound
like many of the nice finishes are an Acrylic Enamel sanded
and sprayed two or three times and finished with a clear coat.
This is followed by two stage buffing I believe.
Does this present any adherence problems? Does this result
in a better appearance than the typical base/clear finish? What
are the advantages of the Acrylic with a hardener instead of the
base coat followed by the clear?
Any recommendations on brands of paint?
All help would be appreciated.
Rolland Westra
Rockford Illinois
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 09:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Painting help needed
Hi Roland,
Are you sure they are not talking Acrylic Urethane? A
common practice is to "cocktail" 50 - 50 clear and
single stage urethane color. If I were going for a
show car or strict originality (regarding looks) that
is my personal preference. For long term durability
and ease of maintainence you can't beat base-clear.
Covering anything except what the clearcoat is made
for can be done, but can be chancy regarding long term
durability. It works in most instances, but do you
want to be the instance where it doesn't? The best
base-clear systems chemically bond to each other. Some
clearcoats need to be put over a specific base, others
can be put over any basecoat.
As far as brands, finding the best shop is really more
important that what brand they use. Be sure that have
good equipment like a modern spray booth. The best
shops won't use cheap or aftermarket brands or put
aftermarket clears over a brand name basecoat. In my
experience Glasurit (distributed by R-M) is the
absolute best. Spies Hecker and Standox (actually the
same stuff) are a very close second. In single stage,
again R-M has a new "Uno" which blows away anybody
elses single stage. For domestic brands of
base-clear, Sherwin Williams, PPG, DuPont, R-M
Diamont, a good painter can do a killer job with any
of them. The difference in those brands are behind the
scenes and matter to the body shop, but not you.
The worst mistake you could make is to go to a shop
that sprays say DuPont and say Russ says "Glasurit is
the best, paint my car with it". Trust me, it won't
pay to have him experement with your car. Every brand
has their own quirks that the painter knows and knows
how to deal with. If you want to use a specific brand
of paint, find a shop that uses that brand.
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask any more questions
should they arrise.
300ly
Russ Vaughan
--- RWestra@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Does anyone have good information on what
> combinations of
> paint would give good results on my 300 L? I have
> had some
> discussion with show car painters and it is
> beginning to sound
> like many of the nice finishes are an Acrylic Enamel
> sanded
> and sprayed two or three times and finished with a
> clear coat.
> This is followed by two stage buffing I believe.
> Does this present any adherence problems? Does this
> result
> in a better appearance than the typical base/clear
> finish? What
> are the advantages of the Acrylic with a hardener
> instead of the
> base coat followed by the clear?
>
> Any recommendations on brands of paint?
>
> All help would be appreciated.
>
> Rolland
> Westra
> Rockford
> Illinois
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:39:06 -0500
From: "kandyce hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Reccommended process
I am working on the side glass in a 61 2 dr 300 ht. I need to reaffix the
glass edge stainless trim, what is the approved process and what type of
adhesive should I use? Same question for the window run channel felt. Is
there a source for the clips that mount the window fuzzy / felt strips to
the outside body panels and doors? and most of us do not have the
necessary staple machine to attach the inside felt strips to the metal
moldings, any suggestions?
Thanks
Brian
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:29:47 -0700
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine Painting
Hi Gang,
I thought since we were on a painting theme I would ask about painting
an
engine. I am about to clean the engine bay and will be pulling the engine.
I
want to clean it paint it and put it back into the clean bay.
Any ideas or standard processes?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:13:39 -0400
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Photos of new Coker 235/75R14 Radials
Hi to all,
The link below has some pictures of the new Coker Radials installed on my
300-F. The link will bring you to my homepage. Click on the first picture
to
enlarge and start a slide show. Click the right arrow to go thru the
pictures. There will be a left arrow for you to go back to a previous
picture also.
http://homepage.mac.com/awrdoc/PhotoAlbum3.html
What a difference in the ride, handling (especially cornering) and braking
with the new tires. As you can see from the pictures, they are very large,
with a lot of rubber and a wide track. They certainly worth the wait.
Never noticed that the my old right rear tire was completely bald. That is
what I get for letting John Hertog test drive my car.
300'ly,
Tony
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:56:45 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Photos of new Coker 235/75R14 Radials
In a message dated 6/17/2002 3:19:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> http://homepage.mac.com/awrdoc/PhotoAlbum3.html
>
Now if we could just get Coker to reproduce the 7.60x15 Goodyear
BlueStreak
tire......
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:55:25 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1962 PARTS NEEDED
Looking to see if anyone has a decent spare oil dipstick with tube for a
1962 413 motor.
The tube on my motor is bent, which immediately bends any dipstick put
through it. Very annoying.
Thanks!
Jennifer Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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