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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. sheetmetal thickness - '57
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Fw: sheetmetal thickness - '57
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: sheetmetal thickness - '57
From: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx
4. Further: 300C Displaced Motors Database
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:31:12 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sheetmetal thickness - '57
How about that! A C question that is not covered in my book and that I
cannot answer! If anyone has an answer for this one, I'll add it to the
book.
Wayne
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:17:43 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sheetmetal thickness - '57
Good mornin' & happy almost-the-weekend.
Silly question of the week: What is the gauge of the exterior sheetmetal
on '57 cars?
Was the same thickness used throughout the rest of the car (floor pans,
etc) ?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:19:50 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: sheetmetal thickness - '57
Here is the answer from George Riehl for y'all.
Wayne
**************
Are you ready for this? .045 from an N.O.S. front '57 fender. Also
checked
my '57. Reading comes up the same. But cannot find the gauge
designation,
that darn book is some place in shop. Floor pan....?
George
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 15:38:22 +0000
From: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: sheetmetal thickness - '57
Hi Wayne, Michael, others -
Best I can determine from measuring my 58 Plymouth and
59 Dodge conv. sheetmetal, is that inner/outer body
sheetmetal is 20ga. However, on convertibles, the rocker
panel area, door sill and inner rocker, all of which
extend underneath the quarter skin to the rear wheel
well opening, are 12ga., the same thickness as the frame
rails. I would think that this is true of the entire
line, 57 thru 59.
Ron
> How about that! A C question that is not covered in my book and that I
cannot
> answer! If anyone has an answer for this one, I'll add it to the book.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:17:43 -0400
> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: sheetmetal thickness - '57
>
> Good mornin' & happy almost-the-weekend.
>
> Silly question of the week: What is the gauge of the exterior sheetmetal
on '57
> cars?
>
> Was the same thickness used throughout the rest of the car (floor pans,
etc) ?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to >
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:47:45 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Further: 300C Displaced Motors Database
There are already 18 (eighteen!) motor numbers in the 300C Displaced
Motors Database and six cars admitting to be missing their original
motors. And we have one match!
If you know of a C motor that is not in its original chassis and have the
stamped number from the top of the block between the heads and behind the
water pump, please send me that number.
We are looking at putting this database into club web sites Technical
section.
Who wants to start a database for displaced C300, 300B and 300D motors?
Have gotten notes on a few but I am ONLY handling the 300C motors.
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:37:55 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
Hi Gang
I am a few days late in response to damper trouble. I had to get my damper
out to get photos then Bob set me up with URL on club site so those
interested my view my 392 damper fix,(harmonic balancer).
I owned a 300C in 61 and experienced damper hub walk off. On my current
300C restoration I am correcting the damper problem as shown in the 5
photos using the URL shown below.
The photos have text in them to help understand what is going on in each
photo. I will add some text here to complete what is not shown in photos.
1) First thing you will want to do before removing damper is to find exact
top dead center and transfer that to both inner and outer hubs. If anybody
requests I can do a photo shoot detailing the procedure to accomplish
that.
2) The damper is pressed apart.
3) 3 groves are machined into each hub,(see photo). This is what keeps
them
from walking apart
after the casting urethane is in place.
4) I machine a precision locating fixture that precisely holds the inner
and outer hubs concentric and correct relationship to each other.(not
shown
in photos).
5) The damper is placed front down on the fixture. Part of the fixture has
a ring that seals off the gap as you fill the gap from back side it will
not run out plus leaves a smooth surface when cured due to the machined
ring.
6) The last two photos show where I applied new degree marks. To do this I
made a skin pass in the lath to give me a fresh surface to start new
degree
marks. This is optional and some may think it is a overkill. That's fussy
me. I have the luxury of having a complete machine shop in my business and
I just tell my tool and die maker, do this do that and it gets done. Some
times he puts me off a while.
I would have to charge $135 to due all excluding new degree marks. Most of
the work is in setting up and doing the machine work. I don't make money
at
this price and not looking for the work. If I can help then that's what I
try to do.
View photos here.
www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/gnharm/harm.html
Gary, The Parts Doc
>Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 20:03:00 -0500
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] harmonic balancer rebuild
>
>George and Rose wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > On the subject of rebuilding harmonic balancers, I have got to
tell
> you being off a couple of degrees on timing is not your primary
> concern. I have had the rings come loose on two occasions, both were
392
> engines, luckily I wasn't to far from home either time.
> > Regards,
> > George Cann
>
>And it makes a HUGE racket when you are driving and that happens.
>
>I stoped at a repair place nad had to have it removed before
>I got home from a trip once because of just this.
>
>Once you get your "new" damper, I suggest you mark the front
>of it with a mark (I used a white paint line) on the hub AND
>the ring part. That way you can see when it starts to slip.
>
>--
>Paul Holmgren
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:09:34 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
Gary Nelson wrote:
> Hi Gang
> I am a few days late in response to damper trouble. I had to get
> my damper out to get photos then Bob set me up with URL on club
> site so those interested my view my 392 damper fix,(harmonic
> balancer).
> I owned a 300C in 61 and experienced damper hub walk off. On my
> current 300C restoration I am correcting the damper problem as
> shown in the 5 photos using the URL shown below.
> The photos have text in them to help understand what is going on
> in each photo. I will add some text here to complete what is not
> shown in photos.
> 1) First thing you will want to do before removing damper is to
> find exact top dead center and transfer that to both inner and
> outer hubs. If anybody requests I can do a photo shoot detailing
> the procedure to accomplish that.
> 2) The damper is pressed apart.
> 3) 3 groves are machined into each hub,(see photo).
> This is what keeps them from walking apart after
> the casting urethane is in place.
> 4) I machine a precision locating fixture that precisely holds
> the inner and outer hubs concentric and correct relationship
> to each other.(not shown in photos).
> 5) The damper is placed front down on the fixture. Part of the
> fixture has a ring that seals off the gap as you fill the gap
> from back side it will not run out plus leaves a smooth surface
> when cured due to the machined ring.
> 6) The last two photos show where I applied new degree marks.
> To do this I made a skin pass in the lath to give me a fresh
> surface to start new degree marks. This is optional and some
> may think it is a overkill. That's fussy me. I have the luxury
> of having a complete machine shop in my business and I just
> tell my tool and die maker, do this do that and it gets done.
> Some times he puts me off a while.
> I would have to charge $135 to due all excluding new degree marks.
> Most of the work is in setting up and doing the machine work.
> I don't make money at this price and not looking for the work.
> If I can help then that's what I try to do.
> View photos here.
> www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/gnharm/harm.html
> Gary, The Parts Doc
> >Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 20:03:00 -0500
> >Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] harmonic balancer rebuild
> >George and Rose wrote:
> > > Hi all,
> > > On the subject of rebuilding harmonic balancers,
snip
> >Once you get your "new" damper, I suggest you mark the front
> >of it with a mark (I used a white paint line) on the hub AND
> >the ring part. That way you can see when it starts to slip.
> >Paul Holmgren
To those folks who object to excessive replies. Sorry, but this
is important info.
Gary, does the casting urethane have the same damping charistics
as the original material??? If so this is a GREAT price.
>From the few inquiries I know of that have ended up with the 2
major Cal. companies that do this service this a HUGE savings!!!
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:40:58 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer rebuild
Yes Paul
I am not a chemist, but casting urethane is, (or like) synthetic rubber.
You must use the correct durometer, (hardness).
Hummmm, maybe I need to raise that price? You have two seconds to get your
order in.
Gary
At 09:09 PM 5/30/2002 -0500, paulholm wrote:
> > >Paul Holmgren
>
>To those folks who object to excessive replies. Sorry, but this
>is important info.
>
>Gary, does the casting urethane have the same damping charistics
>as the original material??? If so this is a GREAT price.
>
> From the few inquiries I know of that have ended up with the 2
>major Cal. companies that do this service this a HUGE savings!!!
>
>
>--
>Paul Holmgren
>Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
>2 57 300-C's in Indy
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