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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Don Verity's New Email Address
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Early Hemi Parts.
From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
3. Portland, Oregon Swap Meet - Web Site
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: warning - dishonest vendor
From: David Todd <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. powder coating
From: "Blackbird" <hemichrysler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: powder coating
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. powder coating
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: powder coating
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:12:58 -0500
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Don Verity's New Email Address
d.verity@xxxxxxx
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
Organization: RW Consulting Services, Inc.
Reply-To: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:46:40 -0500
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] Don Verity's New Email Address
Hi Gang -
Does anyone know Don Verity's new email address ?
Thanks,
Ron
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:24:15 -0600
From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Early Hemi Parts.
Performance Automotive Warhouse has a 48 page catalog of early hemi parts
(354 & 392). I've not seen it yet but it only costs $2.95. Their # is
818-678-3000.
Marshall
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:30:36 -0800
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Portland, Oregon Swap Meet - Web Site
The Portland Oregon Swap Meet is April 5, 6 & 7, 2002.
The Web site is:
http://www.geocities.com/portlandswapmeet/Home.html
This is the 38th year of the Swap Meet. It is sponsored by six Portland
Area Car Clubs. There are 4,600 vendor stalls. They expect 50,000
shoppers.
John & Arlys Chesnutt, Portland, OR. 300C & 70 300 Convert.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 13:21:31 -0500
From: David Todd <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: warning - dishonest vendor
Maybe someone living close to this guy could make some calls and let him
know that he is
being monitered by an individual who is not across the country, but lives
in his
backyard. Maybe the complaintant won't seem so far removed from him.
Worth a try? If the guy lived around here I wouldn't hesitate to contact
him and
encourage him to make things right.
Dave
>
>
> I just wanted to advise the membership of an individual selling
> Chrysler parts from the state of Oregon. Back in January I sent $325
and
> was
> told I'd have my parts in 3-4 days. Not only do I have no parts but
multiple
> telephone calls have not been returned. On occasion his wife has picked
up
> the phone and only "takes messages" and tells me I should "take it up
with
> Gary".
>
> This person has yet to have the courtesy to return a call even
though
> I
> allow a week between calls so as not to "be a pest" Mrs Groff has even
hung
> up the phone rather than discuss the situation. One conversation with
him a
> month ago led me to believe that he would take care of the required
> paperwork
> with the shipper so that I could get a refund for the lost item. I have
not
> heard from him since and he again has not returned several phone calls.
>
> I would highly recommend C.O.D as method of payment for any club
> member who may do business with him in the future. His name and contact
> information are as follows:
>
> Gary Groff
> 11565 SE 222 Drive
> Boring, OR 97009
> (503) 658-5979
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 22:50:22 -0000
From: "Blackbird" <hemichrysler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: powder coating
Hello. I like powder coating, but I accept that it isn't suitable for all
applications. I am considering whether to powder coat a pair of 413
cylinder heads.
With the modern powder coatings, I am confident that the powder will not
shed or peel from the heat, especially if etch primer is applied
beforehand.
These powders are baked on at something like 200 or 300 degrees
Centigrade.
I am not sure, however, about the heat retention factor. I know that the
powder coating will mean that the cylinder heads are a little hotter than
with paint, but I don't know whether the difference is significant.
I intend to powder coat the block, but have not made a decision about the
heads yet.
Has anyone treated the exterior surfaces of their cylinder heads with
powder
coating? Could you report any good or bad experiences with powder coated
heads?
Thanks.
Richard.
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 16:18:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: powder coating
Hi,
I guess I just have to say I am at a loss to
understand why you would want to powdercoat an engine.
Modern engine enamels and single stage urethanes are
more than up to the task. I would doubt the durability
near exhaust ports for one. I think it would make the
engine look "porcelenized" for another. It might be
nice for a Rolls or Dusenberg, but not for a letter
car.
My vote is paint it!
Russ Vaughan
--- Blackbird <hemichrysler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hello. I like powder coating, but I accept that it
> isn't suitable for all
> applications. I am considering whether to powder
> coat a pair of 413
> cylinder heads.
>
> With the modern powder coatings, I am confident that
> the powder will not
> shed or peel from the heat, especially if etch
> primer is applied beforehand.
> These powders are baked on at something like 200 or
> 300 degrees Centigrade.
>
> I am not sure, however, about the heat retention
> factor. I know that the
> powder coating will mean that the cylinder heads are
> a little hotter than
> with paint, but I don't know whether the difference
> is significant.
>
> I intend to powder coat the block, but have not made
> a decision about the
> heads yet.
>
> Has anyone treated the exterior surfaces of their
> cylinder heads with powder
> coating? Could you report any good or bad
> experiences with powder coated
> heads?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Richard.
>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 00:16:11 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: powder coating
Hi as well
Well, on this one I'd have to disagree with good buddy Russ at least to
some
extent..
1/ powdercoating doesn't have to be glossy - it can be applied in flat,
satin or semi-gloss finish.
2/ I am guessing at this one but I see no reason to think that
powdercoating
would not fare as well as engine paint in high-heat areas. After all, it
IS
baked on in an oven..
3/ Powdercoating is much superior to paint in terms of staining, chip
damage, etc and exposure to chemicals.
My suggestion to Richard would be to inquire directly of his local
powdercoating facility as far as the question he raises . Richard, the
shop
in my area that provides this service has undoubtedly already done engines
and cylinder heads as well as pretty much anything else you can think of.
If
you wish me to inquire of them what they think, e-mail me privately. I
have
already consulted their powdercoated-paint chip sets - there's an amazing
variety to choose from, both in terms of color, and of luster.
The only items I have had powdercoated as far as Chrysler 300's are
subframes, black-painted suspension components, rear axle housings and all
brake backing plates. I am quite satisfied with the results and the look.
If I were building a car that I knew I was going to keep "forever" , I
would
probably invest more in powdercoating - such as the engine, all brackets
and
pulleys, anything that was painted black. As far as engines, of course, I
mean to say engines that were painted black at the factory . It appears
that
there is no equivalent powder paint available in the later, '62 and up
turquoise color.
Yes, powder-coating is over-restoration, of course, to standards better
than
what the factory used. True purists might want to stick to regular
paint...But I submit the factory "look" can be closely approximated with
powdercoating... at least as far as chassis components - and help preserve
the car over time.
John
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:40:27 -0800
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: powder coating
Just my two cents worth. As for the heat retension, I am certainly no
expert
on how the plastic will insulate the block or the heads so I will remain
silent on that.(Sorry, I know that was the question)
I have to say though, if you are indeed going for a stock appearance I
think
powder coating is a poor choice. In comparison to paint, it is hard to
touch
up if needed, it gives a really thick look even when applied sparingly,
it's
more costly, and what about color match? Also, when you paint an engine it
is normally painted completely assembled similar to how the factory did it
so how do you hide the gasket gaps on the heads, water pump, intake etc?
Seems to me you would have dark lines and some exposed steel to corrode at
the mating surfaces? (ie - head to deck)
I figure if you must powder-coat, leave it for the bumper brackets and the
jack. That's just me though. Enjoy your 300 and good luck with whatever
you
choose to do.
Ryan.
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